INGREDIENT INNOVATION - Trend Hunting at in-cosmetics Global 2026

Coralie Arme April 21, 2026

From exposome defense to neuro-aging: the new frontiers of skin longevity

At in-cosmetics Global 2026 (April 14–16), our team explored the innovations shaping the next era of beauty. Across the show floor, a clear shift emerged: skincare is moving from corrective approaches toward anticipatory, system-level strategies that optimize skin function over time.

The industry is now embracing a more systemic vision of skin health, integrating environmental exposure, cellular longevity, neurobiology, and advanced delivery systems.

Climate intelligence: tackling the exposome and inflammaging

As environmental instability accelerates, ingredient companies are evolving their approach to protection, developing solutions that respond to increasingly complex external stressors. Heat, UV radiation, pollution, and humidity fluctuations are no longer peripheral factors, they are now central to formulation strategies. New ingredients reflect this shift toward exposome-aware skincare, combining antioxidant protection with cellular resilience:

Readline Biotech - Photo by Cosmetics IC

Repigard-SAL™ (Readline Biotech) draws inspiration from Rhodiola crenulata, a resilient alpine plant traditionally used to combat fatigue and stress. It acts as a bioengineered adaptogen to improve cellular stress defense, supporting mitochondrial function and autophagy while oxidative damage and protein carbonylation caused by blue light exposure.

Coffea Regenera™ (SAES Chemicals) is an upcycled extract derived from Coffea arabica Silver Skin, a naturally bioactive fraction rich in hydroxycinnamoyl-quinic acids. Suitable for skincare and makeup formulation, it supports to skin longevity pathways and anti-hyaluronidase activity and provides anti-exposome shield, reinforcing urban defense against pollution and blue light.

A clear trajectory is emerging: cosmetics are evolving into daily environmental defense systems, designed to anticipate chronic stressors rather than repair damage.

Cellular health span: longevity moves to the core of skincare

One of the strongest signals at the show is the rise of cellular longevity science. The focus is shifting from visible signs of aging to the mechanisms that drive them: senescence, mitochondrial decline, and genomic instability. This new generation of actives targets the functional lifespan of skin:

BioCalix™ (QVerse) supports long-term skin vitality by addressing pathways associated with senescence to support skin function, helping preserve vitality and comfort.

Designed with a longevity-driven approach, Chronolea (Robertet) acts on four key biological hallmarks of skin longevity: loss of proteostasis, cellular senescence, genomic instability, and extracellular matrix alteration. By protecting skin proteins from oxidative damage, Chronolea supports long-term skin resilience and preserves skin structure.

Developed under Normactive’s Longevity-Driven Cellular Programming™ framework, AST-4™ (Normactive) supports coordinated cellular resilience through the modulation of FOXO3-associated longevity signaling, autophagic flux, oxidative balance, ECM-related gene expression, and controlled senescence pathways.

This reflects a broader paradigm: aging is no longer treated as a symptom, but as a system to regulate.

Neuro-aging: the rise of the brain-skin axis

Beyond cellular biology, another frontier is emerging: neuro-aging. In a context of chronic stress, overstimulation, and cognitive fatigue, aging is increasingly understood as a neurobiological process that directly impacts the skin. Calm, balance, and sensory function become measurable dimensions of skin health. Innovations now target this brain-skin dialogue:

Bloomlight® (Solabia Group) is a brightening active inspired by plant exosomes communication, focusing on neuro-ppigmentation. Acting at the root cause of pigmentation, it targets stress-affected signaling within the neuro-cutaneous axis, demonstrating the link between stress, pigmentation, and skin longevity.
PrimalHyal™ NeuroYouth (Givaudan Active Beauty) pioneers the science of Neuro Skin Ageing, by restoring communication between neurons and skin cells for perfect balance and revived touch. It combines low molecular weight hyaluronic acid with selected amino acids to activate the skin’s neurorejuvenation.

The implication is significant: skincare is evolving into a neuro-cosmetic category, where emotional well-being and skin aging are deeply interconnected.

Advanced delivery systems: from ingredients to intelligent performance

Another major shift lies not in what is formulated, but in how it is delivered. The industry is moving toward precision delivery systems that enhance bioavailability while minimizing irritation, enabling more efficient and targeted action. Key innovations include:

Ionicsome™ Retinol (Samyang KCI) uses proprietary ionicsome delivery to stabilize retinol through ionic interactions, delivering resistance to light, heat, and oxidative degradation while maintaining active potency. The nanovesicle encapsulation improves water dispersibility and significantly enhances skin permeation, while minimizing irritation and maximizing anti-wrinkle efficacy.

SilCare™ GHK-Cu 1001 (Spec-Chem) uses corneosphere microencapsulation technology to encapsulate a high concentration of Copper Tripeptide-1 with ceramide NP, offering increased stability, controlled release, and enhanced safety.
VectorHyal™ (Givaudan Active Beauty) leverages a hyaluronic acid–based micro-encapsulation platform, designed for customization and to optimize penetration and controlled release of actives within the skin. Its structure, based on an HA structural backbone, enables deep & homogeneous penetration of actives, enhancing stability, solubility & performance of encapsulated actives.

This marks the transition toward formulation intelligence, where efficacy depends as much on delivery architecture as on active ingredients themselves.

THE CIC TAKE

Across all categories, a consistent vision emerges: from reactive care to preventive and adaptive systems, from surface correction to biological regulation, from isolated ingredients to integrated ecosystems. Cosmetics are no longer just about improving appearance; they are becoming tools to actively manage skin health across time, environment, and physiology.

in-cosmetics Global 2026 confirms a deeper transformation: longevity is redefining the role of beauty, shifting it from aesthetic enhancement to functional performance. In this new landscape, skincare is designed not only to preserve youth, but to sustain skin integrity in an increasingly unstable and demanding environment.

Beauty Brands Scaling Sport Partnerships as Strategy

Coralie Arme April 15, 2026

Credits: Mouthwash Studios via Deathtostock

Beauty and luxury brands are entering sport with a new level of intent. No longer limited to image-driven partnerships, these collaborations are becoming structural, rooted in long-term engagement, particularly around women’s sports.

This acceleration echoes a shift we anticipated in our 2025 predictions with the “Life in Movement” trend - a celebration of bodies in action, where beauty moves beyond static ideals to embrace fluidity, strength, and grace in motion. This paradigm repositioned athletes and sports figures as new cultural icons of beauty, not for how they look, but for what their bodies can do.

Today, this vision is materializing at scale, as brands invest in sport not just as a platform for visibility, but as a space for legitimacy, performance, and transformation.

1. Chanel Beauté ans Performance-Led Femininity

Chanel Beauté’s CC League reflects this shift. Built as a two-year mentorship program, it supports a collective of international athletes through coaching, workshops, and personal development. Beyond visibility, the initiative positions Chanel as a contributor to evolving representations of femininity in sport, where performance, resilience, and diversity are central. By engaging directly with high-level athletes, the program mirrors the brand’s own pursuit of excellence while fostering female empowerment in a tangible and sustained way.

2. Sephora’s Activation in Competitive Sport

Sephora’s partnership with the F1 Academy continues this trajectory, albeit with a different activation approach. Through immersive experiences such as trackside “Glam Bars,” Sephora moves from observation to participation, engaging audiences directly in the live environment of the sport. This approach translates brand presence into experiential interaction, while reinforcing its alignment with the rising visibility and dynamism of women’s competitive platforms.

3. La Roche-Posay Under Extreme Conditions

With La Roche-Posay’s role in the America’s Cup, the partnership model becomes even more functional. Here, sport serves as a testing ground, allowing the brand to co-develop products under extreme conditions alongside athletes. Performance is no longer metaphorical, it becomes measurable, tested, and proven, reinforcing scientific credibility and product efficacy.

THE CIC TAKE

Sport is emerging as a strategic territory where brands can assert purpose, credibility, and innovation. What began as a cultural shift toward “beauty in movement” is now evolving into a full-scale repositioning of the industry.

As consumers increasingly value experience, authenticity, and emotional engagement, sport offers a powerful convergence point - blending performance, storytelling, and community. For beauty and luxury brands, it is no longer just about entering the conversation, but about embedding themselves within it, shaping a new definition of beauty that is active, resilient, and in constant motion.

MULA 2026 BEAUTY TALK #2: CLEAN BEAUTY 2030

Coralie Arme March 23, 2026

Redefining Growth, Purpose, and Performance

At MakeUp in Los Angeles, Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation hosted a new edition of its Beauty Talk series, bringing together industry leaders to explore the next phase of responsible beauty.

Moderated by Leila Rochet, founder of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation, the session “Clean Beauty 2030: Redefining Growth and Performance” featured Victor Casale, co-founder of MOB Beauty and chairman of Pact Collective, and Iva Teixeira, founder of The Good Face Project.

The conversation revealed a decisive shift: clean beauty is no longer the destination, it is the starting point. As the industry moves toward 2030, brands must move beyond ingredient exclusion to embrace a broader framework combining science, transparency, sustainability and performance.

From Clean Claims to System Thinking

To frame the discussion, Leila Rochet highlighted how the clean beauty movement has matured dramatically over the past decade. What once functioned as a niche positioning has now become a mainstream expectation.

“Clean beauty is maturing beyond niche to become a mainstream category.” - Leila Rochet

But the future of responsible beauty requires a more holistic perspective. Rochet outlined four interconnected territoriesshaping the evolution of the category:

Supreme Health - safe, science-driven formulations supporting long-term wellbeing
Planet Revival - climate-aware ingredients and sustainable product design
Ethical Ecosystems - fair sourcing and biodiversity protection
Hedonistic Nature - reconnecting beauty with nature, rituals and emotional wellbeing

Together, these dimensions signal a shift from clean formulations to systemic responsibility.

Clean Is the Baseline

According to Iva Teixeira, the clean beauty movement has reached a stage of structural standardization. Retailer “no lists” and ingredient restrictions have largely stabilized, meaning the concept of clean is no longer a differentiator.

“Clean beauty has basically reached a framework of understanding… it has become the platform on top of which new dimensions will emerge.” - Iva Teixeira

The next competitive frontier will therefore revolve around performance, advanced science, and new ingredient ecosystems, including biotechnology and AI-supported formulation.

Technology is already transforming product development by allowing chemists to evaluate regulatory compliance during the formulation stage, dramatically accelerating innovation.

Regulation Is Accelerating Change

Regulatory evolution is another major force shaping the future of clean beauty. Victor Casale pointed out that global cosmetic innovation is increasingly guided by European regulatory standards, which often set the pace for ingredient reformulation and environmental progress.

“Clean used to be about a ‘no list’. Today it includes packaging, sustainability and ethics, and regulation is forcing that evolution.” - Victor Casale

At the same time, regulatory frameworks are becoming more fragmented. In the United States alone, multiple states are developing their own cosmetic laws, creating new complexity for brands operating globally.

Packaging: Beauty’s Next Transformation

Beyond ingredients, packaging emerged as one of the most urgent challenges for the industry. Casale shared how MOB Beauty was designed around refillable and compostable packaging systems, aiming to rethink the lifecycle of beauty products.

“We’ve spent 50 years teaching consumers that heavier, shinier packaging means luxury. But the package lasts hundreds of years while the product lasts three months.” - Victor Casale

Scaling these solutions, however, requires systemic change across the entire supply chain, from packaging manufacturers to brand design strategies.

Commitment as the New Competitive Advantage

While technologies and regulations are accelerating change, Casale emphasized that transformation ultimately depends on industry commitment.

“My formula for success is commitment. If you commit to doing the right thing, you will overcome many of these obstacles.” - Victor Casale

Brands that embed sustainability and transparency into their culture - not just their claims - will be best positioned for the next decade.

The Strategic Outlook for 2030

Looking ahead, three strategic priorities are emerging for beauty innovators.

Ingredient Reinvention

Replacing petroleum-derived molecules is becoming a central priority for the industry. Biotechnology and fermentation technologies are enabling a new generation of ingredients that combine improved sustainability with high performance.

As Iva Teixeira emphasized, this transition is already underway across the industry:

“Number one is replacing petroleum-derived molecules in their formulas.” - Iva Teixeira

Major beauty companies are already investing in biotech platforms capable of producing next-generation actives designed to reduce reliance on petrochemical inputs.

Packaging Transformation

Packaging is the next major frontier. Developing refillable, compostable and circular systems will be critical as brands rethink the lifecycle of beauty products and reduce long-term environmental impact.

Radical Transparency

Transparency is evolving beyond ingredient disclosure. Brands must communicate not only what is inside their products, but also how those products are formulated, manufactured, and sourced.

As Rochet concluded, the future of beauty will be defined by brands capable of moving beyond clean toward measurable impact and credibility.

“Transparency must become your superpower. It’s not about saying things anymore, it’s about proving them.” - Leila Rochet

MULA BEAUTY TALK #1: BEAUTY'S OPTIMIZATION ERA

Coralie Arme March 20, 2026

How Performance, Science and Technology Are Redefining the Industry

At MakeUp in Los Angeles, Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation hosted the first session of its Beauty Talk series, exploring how the industry is entering a new phase defined by performance, efficiency and technological integration.

Moderated by Leila Rochet, founder of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation, the session titled “The Optimization Era: How Beauty Is Evolving Toward the Next Level of Efficiency” brought together Gloria Ryu, Chief Product Officer at Haus Labs by Lady Gaga, Michelle Lee, founder and CEO of Monologue and former Editor-in-Chief of Allure, and Max Farrow, Marketing Director at Nuon Medical.

Together, they explored how beauty is shifting from aspiration and storytelling toward measurable performance systems, driven by science, devices, and increasingly sophisticated consumer expectations.

Entering the Age of Flow

To frame the discussion, Leila Rochet introduced the broader cultural context shaping the beauty industry today. Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation’s latest foresight report, The Age of Flow, highlights a world defined by constant acceleration and adaptation.

Technological intensity, AI-driven systems, climate instability and evolving social norms are transforming consumer expectations. Beauty is no longer static or purely aesthetic, it is becoming adaptive, experiential and performance-driven.

Within this landscape, Rochet identified the rise of what Cosmetics IC calls the Optimization Era, where beauty intersects with wellness, sports science and longevity culture.

Consumers increasingly approach beauty as a performance ecosystem, combining skincare, devices, lifestyle habits and recovery strategies.

Performance Becomes the New Beauty Standard

For Gloria Ryu, the transformation of Haus Labs illustrates how deeply the industry is shifting toward science-led product development. When she joined the brand five years ago, the mission was to reposition the company from a celebrity-driven label into a true innovation platform.

“We saw that the market was clearly shifting from a concept-led approach to a more performance-led one.” - Gloria Ryu

The repositioning required rethinking the entire product ecosystem, from ingredient selection and formulation to packaging design and testing protocols. Today, performance is validated through rigorous real-world stress testing, including stage testing with Lady Gaga and professional dancers to ensure products remain “life-proof.”

The goal, according to Ryu, is to operate at the intersection of science and artistry, using technology to enhance creative expression rather than replace it.

The Rise of the Performance Consumer

Michelle Lee offered a perspective from her experience in editorial and brand development.

Over the past decade, the beauty consumer has become increasingly aware of ingredients and scientific claims. However, Lee emphasized that performance remains the ultimate decision driver.

“Ultimately it still comes down to the user experience- how well something works.” - Michelle Lee

Consumers may be more informed than before, but scientific storytelling must remain accessible and emotionally engaging. For brands, this means balancing clinical credibility with compelling narratives, ensuring that science supports the experience rather than overwhelming it.

Devices and Technology Redefine Efficacy

Another major dimension of the Optimization Era is the growing convergence between cosmetics, medical technology and engineering. Companies such as Nuon Medical are pushing this shift by integrating clinical-grade technology directly into consumer beauty products, enhancing the performance of formulations and accelerating innovation cycles.

As Max Farrow explained, technology is not only improving product efficacy, it is also transforming how quickly innovations can be developed and brought to market.

“We are shortening the route to market, developing functional prototypes in days instead of months.” - Max Farrow

This acceleration reflects a broader shift in the industry, where beauty is increasingly treated as a high-performance system combining formulation, device technology and real-time development capabilities.

Science Is Raising the Bar for Innovation

As scientific literacy grows, both product development and marketing standards are evolving rapidly. Ryu noted that the modern beauty consumer is far less tolerant of vague scientific language or borrowed credibility.

“Consumers are much less tolerant of vague scientific language, you need to be able to prove what you say.” - Gloria Ryu

This shift is forcing brands to invest more heavily in testing, validation and R&D partnerships in order to build lasting credibility. In many ways, the industry is entering a phase where innovation must be both visible and provable.

The Strategic Challenges Ahead

Looking forward, the panelists identified several major challenges shaping the future of beauty innovation.

Hyper-Accelerated Innovation

Technology, AI and global beauty ecosystems are compressing product development cycles while raising expectations for differentiation.

Global Influence

K-Beauty, J-Beauty and emerging international markets are reshaping ingredient culture, textures and product formats at unprecedented speed.

The Battle for Attention

As Michelle Lee noted, beauty brands are no longer competing only with other beauty brands.

“Our competitors today are not just other beauty brands, they’re anything that takes attention.” - Michelle Lee

Social platforms, streaming services and digital culture are redefining how brands must capture and sustain consumer interest.

The Future: Beauty as a Performance System

As the discussion concluded, one message became clear: beauty is evolving into a holistic performance system. Products, devices, wellness rituals and technology are converging to deliver optimized outcomes across skin, body and lifestyle. For brands, the challenge will be not only to innovate, but to do so with clarity, authenticity and measurable impact.

As Gloria Ryu summarized, the future of beauty will depend on maintaining the courage to innovate deeply rather than superficially.

“As the market gets smarter, superficial differentiation gets exposed faster.” - Gloria Ryu

In the Optimization Era, true innovation will belong to brands capable of combining science, performance and meaning into one coherent system.

The cic take

The Optimization Era signals a structural shift in how value is created in beauty. Performance is no longer a differentiator, it is the baseline. What will define the next generation of leaders is the ability to orchestrate ecosystems rather than products - combining formulation, devices, data, and experience into cohesive, outcome-driven systems.

The risk ahead lies in over-indexing on technology at the expense of meaning, or conversely, relying on storytelling without substance. In a landscape where consumers are both highly informed and attention-fragmented, only brands that can align credibility, clarity, and cultural relevance will sustain impact.

Ultimately, the Optimization Era is not about doing more, but about doing better, with precision, coherence, and intention.

To learn more about the agency’s latest report, contact our team.

The Age of Flow: 5 Key Trends for 2026 and Beyond

Coralie Arme February 10, 2026

Credits: Shauna Summers via Deathtostock

In our 2026 White Book, the Cosmetics IC team decodes the societal shifts and breakthrough beauty innovations that will transform the shape of the industry for the years ahead in 2026 and beyond.

The beauty industry is entering a new phase of transformation - one shaped by constant movement, uncertainty, and acceleration, but also by a growing desire for control, grounding, and intention. In a world marked by technological intensity, AI-driven systems, climate instability, and shifting social norms, consumers are recalibrating. Age, categories, and rigid frameworks are losing relevance, replaced by fluid identities, expert knowledge, and deeply personal choices. Beauty is no longer static or purely aesthetic: it has become adaptive, experiential, and emotionally strategic.

The Age of Flow reflects this moment. It describes a cultural shift where consumers learn to navigate extremes: between performance and care, indulgence and discipline, technology and humanity. Flow is about movement with purpose - choosing when to accelerate, when to protect, when to indulge, and when to return to what feels essential.

“Beauty now operates as a tool for alignment. From amplified physical performance and medi-wellness to protective rituals, sensorial pleasure, human expertise, and radical self-expression, brands are responding to a consumer who is more informed, more demanding, and more intentional than ever.” said Leïla Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation.

Discover 5 inspiration territories to fuel your future innovation:

1. Superhuman Future: The optimization era

Across sport, wellness and beauty, performance is no longer instinctive or episodic. It is becoming structured, intentional and system-led. Consumers are replacing routines with protocols: calibrated sequences designed to regulate the body, improve efficiency and deliver measurable outcomes. Strength is no longer about appearance, but about functional capability, durability and long-term autonomy.

This philosophy is embodied by the rise of fitness-as-a-sport formats such as HYROX, which reward consistency, endurance and functional strength rather than elite specialization. Luxury fitness brands reinforce this mindset. Equinox’s It’s Not Fitness, It’s Life platform reframes physical mastery as a lifelong philosophy, positioning commitment and bodily ownership as expressions of identity.

Performance values increasingly extend into fashion and beauty: YSL Beauty’s Lash Latex Mascara borrows the language of training, framing lashes through repetition, endurance and lift rather than instant enhancement.

Recovery itself becomes a performance strategy. Nike x Hyperice’s Hyperboot integrates warm-up and recovery directly into footwear, while beauty adopts tech-enabled protocols such as Vagheggi x Nuon Medical’s 75.25 Longevity Day Cream, where professional treatment logic is translated into controlled at-home use.

In the future, beauty will operate as a system of optimization, balancing performance, recovery and longevity.

2. HUSH STATE: Protective harmony

In an age of intensity and extremes, calm is no longer passive. It becomes regulated, designed and strategic. As environmental stress, climate volatility and mental overload intensify, consumers are no longer seeking escape, but equilibrium, a way to protect internal balance while navigating external instability.

This shift is reflected in a new aesthetic language built on softness, restraint and visual breathing space. Pantone’s Cloud Dancer, described as “a discreet hue offering a promise of clarity,” embodies this desire for simplification and sensory relief. In culture, Rosalía’s latest album explores spirituality through vulnerability and contradiction, signalling quieter, more introspective forms of transcendence.

Protective harmony extends into physical environments. Hospitality increasingly prioritises silence, slowness and nervous-system regulation, positioning calm as a core luxury value. Aman pioneered this approach by redefining the hotel as a place of retreat rather than stimulation, where architecture and pacing support introspection and recovery.

In beauty, protection begins with real-time regulation. Cooling is reframed as active defence through products such as TIRTIR’s Ice-Cooling Cloud Cream. Skincare also addresses stress-induced responses directly, with Beekman 1802’s Magnesium Milk Barrier Reset Jelly Mist targeting cortisol-related irritation.

In the future, calm will function as a form of sustained flow, maintaining balance without stopping movement.

3. LIBERATING REWARDS: Pleasure by design

Under growing conditions of control and optimization, pleasure becomes purposeful. Sensation is no longer ornamental, but a driver of engagement, efficiency and momentum. As daily life becomes increasingly disciplined, consumers actively seek moments of release that fuel desire rather than disrupt performance.

Hyper-specific pleasure cues now trigger instant emotional response. The resurgence of banana as a sensory obsession illustrates this logic. Prada’s viral Banana Yellow Lip Balm transforms a familiar motif into a refined beauty object, while AMUSE’s Banana Lip Oil amplifies tactility through texture, scent and oversized applicators, extending pleasure into immersive retail experiences.

Beauty increasingly draws from collective food culture, turning everyday indulgence into emotional capital. Lidl’s Eau de Croissant elevates a mass-market icon into a sensorial object, while collaborations with pastry chefs such as Nina Métayer for Burberry Goddess translate taste into scent, texture and narrative.

Pleasure also becomes functional. Fel Beauty’s Kissylips Cushy Shine Lip and Cheek Balm positions emotional uplift as a measurable benefit, while brands such as Tree Hut place sensory excess at the core of their identity.

In the future, pleasure will be deliberately designed as a performance accelerator, sustaining engagement and motivation.

4. HANDS OF MASTERY: Human expertise, elevated authority

As automation, algorithms and AI accelerate production, human expertise becomes increasingly valuable. Speed and flawless outputs are no longer sufficient. What gains value instead is mastery: the visible mark of skill, intention and trained judgment.

Craft and process regain cultural significance. Erewhon’s expansion illustrates how artisanal food culture and curated craftsmanship function as luxury markers, while growing interest in cooking and grocery tourism reflects a broader desire for discernment and know-how.

In luxury, intellectual authority becomes aspirational. Miu Miu’s Making of Old campaign reframes aged leather as intentional, positioning time and process as authorship rather than flaw. Objects are increasingly evaluated through knowledge of materials, methods and expertise.

In beauty, trust is rebuilt through expert-led propositions. DUA by AB foregrounds Augustinus Bader’s TFC5™ technology, while The Ordinary’s Ingredients Book reinforces consumer literacy. At the same time, makeup artistry regains authority through artist-founded brands (m.ph, Hung Vanngo Beauty…) and figures such as Nina Park.

In the future, beauty will privilege human mastery over automation, positioning expertise as its ultimate form of authority.

5. REBEL IDENTITY: Rule-breaking reinvention

As social norms fracture and traditional authority erodes, identity becomes an act of disobedience. Age, gender, aesthetics and usage conventions are increasingly rejected in favor of self-authored expression. Neutrality is refused, and polish gives way to provocation.

Fashion reclaims its role as cultural resistance. Rick Owens’ Tower collection at Paris Men’s FW26 exaggerates symbols of authority to strip them of power, while Dilara Findikoglu’s Cage of Innocence dismantles ideas of virtue and restraint through deconstruction and symbolism.

This rejection of refinement extends to beauty. The rise of the “messy girl” mindset embraces imperfection as authenticity, echoed in Dior Men FW26’s punk-inflected hair and exaggerated textures. Beauty becomes a language of tension, excess and visibility.

Brands increasingly encourage amplified self-expression. MAC’s collaboration with Chappell Roan sharpens makeup as spectacle, while experimental formats like Zara Hair’s Chromatic Gel or About Face’s Shimmerstick invite users to embrace the unconventional.

In the future, beauty will operate as a tool for rule-breaking self-invention: fluid, expressive and unapologetic.

The CIC Take

For an up-close look at our 5 Key Trends for 2026 and Beyond visit our booth (K48) at the upcoming MakeUp in Los Angeles (March 4 & 5) where our CIO Leila Rochet will personally talk you through a selection of international products at our Inspiration Bar, curated to illustrate many of the themes above. More information here.

The full version of our 2026 White Book: The Age of Flow is available now, contact us for more information.

NYFW Spring/Summer 2026 Trends

Coralie Arme October 6, 2025

New York Fashion Week continues to be a mirror of the times - fluid in form, yet bold in vision. For Spring/Summer 2026, designers gravitated toward silhouettes that felt expansive and free, crafting movement into every step and cultivating an atmosphere of festivity and theatrical detail that pushed past the ordinary. Beauty mirrored this mood with experimental twists and flashes of bold creativity, while a quieter narrative unfolded backstage - an emphasis on radiant skin and thoughtful care, grounding the season’s exuberance in a natural, effortless glow.

Here are five key trends we spotted during this season’s Fashion Week presentations.

Puffed-up pants

Michael Kors / Altuzarra / Ashlyn / Adam Lippes - Spring/Summer 2026 - The Impression

Voluminous trousers are making a bold return. Once dismissed as casual weekend wear, the balloon and harem-inspired silhouettes have been redefined on the Spring/Summer 2026 runways, offering a sense of ease without sacrificing elegance. Billowing fabrics, playful cinching at the waist or ankle, and exaggerated proportions transform the pants into a statement piece.

- Michael Kors elevated the silhouette with fluid draping and sleek monochrome styling, proving the voluminous pant can move seamlessly from laid-back to refined. The look felt modern, elegant, and surprisingly sensual.

- Brandon Maxwell & Adam Lippes refined the shape by tucking structured tops into the billowing waistline, creating a sculpted, hourglass effect. Their take balanced exaggerated volume with precision tailoring.

- Ashlyn & Collina Strada pushed the drama further, showcasing bold colors, textures, and playful proportions. Their designs embraced the pant’s theatrical edge, capturing the season’s carefree and celebratory spirit.

- Altuzarra embraced bold experimentation with color, material, and texture. From burgundy leather to desert taupe balloon trousers, paired with snakeskin accessories, the collection proved that taking sartorial risks can deliver striking, unforgettable results.

Joyous celebration

Area / Christian Siriano / Luar - Spring/Summer 2026 - The Impression

The runways shimmered with a carnival spirit, where fashion became a spectacle of color, texture, and movement. Designers embraced excess with unapologetic joy, transforming festive motifs into high-fashion statements that captured the exuberance of summer.

- Area leaned fully into celebration, sending models down the runway with confetti-like embellishments and iridescent details that shimmered under the lights. Metallic finishes and playful textures gave the collection a sense of motion, echoing the energy of parade and performance.

- Christian Siriano translated festivity into couture glamour, with neon-bright gowns and sculptural silhouettes that radiated optimism. His palette of hot flashes and glowing tones channeled the spirit of carnival while remaining rooted in red-carpet elegance.

- Luar brought the carnival directly to the runway, infusing his collection with a theatrical edge. From dazzling textures to dynamic accessories, the pieces embodied community, joy, and spectacle—an ode to fashion as both celebration and cultural commentary.

Teal shades

Ashlyn / Laquan Smith / Zankov / Tory Burch - Spring/Summer 2026 - The Impression

A deep, aquatic teal surged across the NYFW runways, emerging as one of the season’s defining colors. Neither subdued nor overpowering, it struck a balance between elegance and vibrancy, offering designers a versatile hue to reinterpret through contrasting textures and moods. Paired with neutrals or presented in head-to-toe statements, teal brought a fresh sophistication to Spring/Summer 2026.

- Ashlyn showcased teal in fluid, sculptural silhouettes, using the shade to emphasize form and movement. The color amplified the architectural precision of her tailoring, adding a bold yet refined edge.

- Teal’s sultry edge came through in body-conscious cuts and glossy finishes, transforming the shade into a symbol of confidence and allure. LaQuan Smith positioned the hue as a bold alternative to the season’s neon spectrum, pairing vibrancy with unapologetic sensuality.

- When paired with earthy browns, teal revealed a more grounded sophistication. At Tory Burch, the contrast elevated American sportswear into something both practical and chic, softening teal’s intensity while highlighting its versatility.

- A glittering teal dress shimmered under the lights at Zankov, transforming the shade into a statement of vibrancy and joy. The sparkling finish elevated teal beyond daywear, proving its power as both playful and glamorous.

Colorful lashes

Ulla Johnson / Collina Strada / Eckhaus Latta - Spring/Summer 2026 - The Impression

This season, lashes became the canvas for experimentation, replacing traditional blacks and browns with flashes of unexpected color. From sky blues to frosted whites, the beauty look was playful yet subversive - equal parts whimsy and rebellion.

- At Anna Sui, pastel-blue mascara brought a dreamy bohemian spirit to the collection, a softer nod to maximalism that brightened the gaze without overwhelming it.

- Eckhaus Latta, working with Isamaya Ffrench, turned lashes into something ethereal. Translucent white extensions caught the light like snowfall, leaving behind only a whisper of shimmer and shape, giving models an otherworldly aura.

- For Collina Strada, color became a clever accent, with feline-inspired eyeshadow paired with vibrant flashes at the outer lashes. The detail was playful yet symbolic, echoing the brand’s themes of sustainability and animal symbolism.

- Meanwhile, Ulla Johnson, translated the trend with delicacy, incorporating subtle tints of yellow shade that felt modern and wearable, making the runway look accessible beyond high fashion.

Care radiance

Ashlyn / Eckhaus Latta / Altuzarra - Spring/Summer 2026 - The Impression

This season, radiance was redefined. Instead of glassy, high-shine skin or layers of contour, the focus shifted to thoughtful preparation - skincare as the ultimate beauty statement. The glow was born backstage, through facials, hydration masks, and partnerships with skincare houses, turning the runway into a quiet celebration of care and authenticity.

- At Altuzarra, the look was intimate and fluid -bare skin with the faintest hint of dew, reflecting the collection’s understated elegance. Ashlyn emphasized purity and restraint, sending out models with untouched complexions that softened the sharper edges of her architectural silhouettes.

- Eckhaus Latta made backstage part of the spectacle itself, collaborating with Dieux to showcase under-eye patches as models walked. It was beauty in progress, an embrace of transparency that reframed skincare prep as performance.

- At COS, minimalism took form in hair and beauty alike. Loose, barely-there ponytails paired with powdery nude lips projected a quiet nonchalance, the kind of understated chic that feels effortless yet intentional. Calvin Klein, meanwhile, stripped things back to their rawest expression: skin laid bare, matte and unadorned, lips washed in neutral tones. It was minimalism pushed to its extreme, redefining power not through excess but through restraint.

The CIC Take

Spring/Summer 2026 was defined by a spirit of liberation and play, where joy, experimentation, and care intertwined across fashion and beauty. Exaggerated silhouettes, carnival-inspired exuberance, bold splashes of color, and radiant skin all spoke to a season unafraid of contrast, where spectacle met restraint, and creativity found balance in authenticity. In a cultural moment shaped by shifting values and evolving expressions of beauty, designers used the runway not just to dress the body, but to celebrate individuality, ritual, and the sheer pleasure of self-expression.

This is just a snapshot of our analysis from Fashion Week - contact us for our latest in-depth NYFW Spring/Summer 2026 report.

INNOVATION AT VIVATECH 2025

CATRIN DAVIES June 16, 2025

Sources: Cosmetics IC / LVMH / Cosmetics IC

Chief Inspiration Officer Leila Rochet reports from the floor of VivaTech 2025 (June 11–14, Paris), where global tech leaders gathered to explore the theme New Frontiers of Innovation.

With AI leading as the most impactful technology for 65% of surveyed business leaders, and 85% planning increased AI investment, the show confirmed how innovation is privileging processes designed to enhance daily life, support long-term wellbeing, and drive smarter, more sustainable success across industries.

Over the course of four days, the Paris Expo Porte de Versailles transformed into a dynamic showcase of innovation. Discover the visionary brands and breakthrough conversations set to redefine the future of health and beauty:

L’Oréal - New Frontiers of Longevity

L’Oréal unveiled a cutting-edge portfolio of tech-enhanced innovations, spotlighting the transformative role of AI in the future of beauty. Centering longevity as its primary focus, L’Oréal blends biology, technology, and personalized insights to empower consumers to take proactive control of their skin’s future through several key innovations:

Longevity Integrative Science is L’Oréal’s pioneering approach to redefining beauty through the lens of health and prevention. By combining advanced tech with skin biology, it targets the root causes of aging to extend cellular healthspan. Using its Longevity AI Cloud and Wheel of Longevity, L’Oréal enables personalized, proactive journeys toward lifelong skin vitality.
The Cell BioPrint is a lab-on-a-chip device that delivers a personalized skin health assessment in just five minutes. Using Longevity Science, powered by NanoEnTek, it calculates biological skin age, predicts future concerns, and guides proactive care, shifting skincare from reactive to preventative, for longer-lasting cellular youth (launching March 2026).
The Rénergie Nano-Resurfacer 400 Booster is a next-generation at-home skincare device inspired by professional micro-needling techniques. Featuring 484 ultra-fine nano-tips, it enhances serum absorption and gently resurfaces skin. Designed to amplify Rénergie H.C.F. Triple Serum, it delivers clinical-grade results on wrinkles, dark spots, and texture, without pain, downtime, or compromising sensitive skin.

LVMH - Optimized Luxury

Far from shying away from showcasing technology’s role in crafting luxury products, LVMH shared stories of how technology is being used to enhance the savoir-faire of its iconic Maisons. Through 15 novel innovations, the presentation demonstrated how the presence of science and AI does not have to be at the sacrifice of soul or artistry. Standout activations from the LVMH Dreamscape also revealed compelling applications for the beauty industry:

Merging signature elegance with traceable, tech-powered personalization, Bulgari showcased connected jewelry, produced in collaboration with Dev4Side. A micro-engraved serial number, scanned via an app, unlocks a digital passport detailing each stone’s origin, rarity, and craftsmanship.
Moët & Chandon highlighted its use of Hiphen technology to analyze 16,000 grape batches in under three weeks. This tech-guided approach ensures only the finest grapes are used in each vintage - true luxury, rooted in data.
Guerlain unveiled a multisensory experience to celebrate its Shalimar fragrance, utilizing technology from startups Olfy and IRCAM Amplify to translate the scent’s six core ingredients - jasmine, bergamot, rose, vanilla, tonka bean, and iris - into sound and visuals. The immersive installation showed how retail and marketing experiences can be elevated into artistic, emotion-driven journeys.

Retro Bioscience - Reverse Aging

Retro Bioscience presented a bold vision: extending human lifespan by 10 years through the use of advanced cellular therapeutics. The company’s CEO, Joe Betts-LaCroix, shared that 80% of our suffering in old age is linked to age-related diseases, and the solution is not to combat diseases one by one, but to take a holistic, scaled approach. To achieve this, the Sam Altman-backed startup is pioneering two key strategies: replacing aged cells and rejuvenating existing ones.

With automation and AI-driven gene analysis, Retro is developing affordable therapies that target the root causes of age-related diseases. Their work on blood stem cell replacement and custom protein design highlights a shift from treating symptoms to modifying cellular predispositions. Phase 1 clinical trials are scheduled to commence this year, with the first therapies anticipated by the end of the decade.

Oura - The Quantified Self

Holly Shelton, Oura’s Chief Product Officer, explored the concept of The Quantified Self - a better, biometrically optimized version of ourselves, aided by a constant stream of health data (50+ daily markers) fed to us via the Oura ring. The brand’s “health sensing” technology - a gentle explanation for the ring’s intricate AI feedback system - enables the wearer to make minor adjustments to improve their day in the moment, as well as for the long term. Shelton emphasized the ring’s ability to restore balance to wearers’ lives—a constant quest for today’s over-stretched, overstimulated consumers.

Oura’s next phase will involve a shift towards active care: expanding from personal wellness into connected healthcare. Upcoming features include blood sugar insights, meal tracking, and enhanced women’s health tools - from cycle tracking to pregnancy support. Crucially, users will soon be able to export health reports, enabling data-driven clinical conversations and empowering earlier, more informed healthcare decisions.

The CIC Take

New technologies are accelerating the shift from correction to prevention, reframing aging as a solvable biological challenge rather than an inevitable decline. This year’s innovations signal beauty’s evolution into a field driven by deep science, where scalable biohacking and cellular age-reversal technologies hold visionary potential to transform both personal care and public health.

VivaTech 2025’s call to explore New Frontiers of Innovation echoes the theme of our latest U.S. Trend Books, Open Horizons, where we urge brands to embrace the future of beauty with an open mind and bold outlook. Contact us for more information.

TIKTOK TREND INSPIRATION: S1 2025

Pierre-Louis Biondi May 29, 2025

Sources: @mvrychen / @melisekrem / @kayli.boyle

Every month, the Cosmetics IC social media team scours TikTok and Instagram to spotlight the latest beauty trends, viral techniques, and must-have products. So far this year, the beauty community has embraced minimalism, playful color correcting experimentation, and a renewed focus on hair. Here are the top three TikTok trends shaping the conversation at the start of the year:

1/ No Mascara Makeup

The #FullFaceNoMascara trend is making waves across TikTok and Instagram, as beauty lovers embrace makeup looks that skip mascara entirely. This minimalist approach shifts the focus to radiant skin, sculpted brows, and statement lips, moving away from the traditional emphasis on dramatic lashes. Instead of volumizing mascaras, creators are enhancing their lash lines with tightlining, subtle false lashes, or simply brushing clear brow gel through their natural lashes for lift and separation.

This trend reflects a broader shift toward pared-back, “undone” aesthetics, where healthy, glowing skin takes center stage. For a feminine and youthful vibe, many pair bare lashes with vibrant lips and cheeks - with sheer berry stains and diffused blush for a modern, effortless finish. A bold red lip worn with bare lashes also features prominently in videos, offering a fresh and edgy twist.

Key Products:

- Maybelline Great Lash Clear Mascara

- SEPHORA COLLECTION Eyelash Curler

- Glossier Boy Brow (transparent)

Influencers: @kensnation, @avashaw.ty, @oliviadaytonn

Hashtags: #nomascara – 74.1M views, #nomascaramakeup – 24.5M views

2/ Pink vs Peach Concealer

A new wave of color-correcting content is taking over TikTok, with creators splitting their faces in half to compare the effects of pink versus peach concealers. This trend is also meant to be helping viewers choose the right corrector for their unique complexion.

Pink correctors are recommended for those with fair skin, brightening under-eyes and neutralizing green and blue undertones for a fresh, illuminated look. On the other side, peach and orange correctors are often used for medium to deep skin tones, counteracting bluish hues and camouflaging dark circles or spots. Peach shades are also seen working well for fair to medium skin, while deeper oranges suit richer skin tones.

In their TikTok videos, creators apply a small amount of the corrector to dark circles or spots, blend gently, and layer with their usual concealer.

Key Products:

- Huda Beauty #FAUXFILTER Under Eye Color Corrector

- Kosas Revealer Extra Bright Serum-Powered Color Corrector

- Maybelline Instant Age Rewind Eraser

Influencers: @selcanguerel, @velabeauty, @christxiee

Hashtags: #peachcolorcorrector – 6.5M, #orangecolorcorrector – 8.6M, #pinkconcealer – 76.6M

3/ Victoria’s Secret Blowout

The iconic “Victoria’s Secret Blowout” is back this year, with TikTokers recreating the bouncy, voluminous hair made famous by 90s and early 2000s supermodels. Whether using hot tools like the Dyson Airwrap or Shark FlexStyle, or opting for heatless methods with overnight rollers or even socks, creators are looking to achieve that signature bombshell bounce.

TikTok creators often follow a specific set of steps to achieve this popular blowout look. They begin by applying a heat protectant to damp hair to shield it from damage, then rough dry the hair until it is about 70% dry. Next, they use a round brush to blow out one-inch sections of hair. After blow-drying, each section is secured in velcro rollers to maximize volume, and the rollers are left in place for at least 20 minutes to set the style. To finish, a volumizing spray or styling cream is applied to lock in body and shine.

Key Products:

- Moroccanoil Perfect Defense Heat Protectant

- Living Proof Perfect Hair Day 5-in-1 Styling Treatment

- Olaplex Bonding Oil No. 7

Influencers: @carogracesmith, @angelsign_, @sophiebarkleyy

Hashtags: #victoriasecrethair – 20.3M, #blowout – 5.3B, #overnightblowout – 500.5M

The CIC Take

Our social media team brings you an indispensable guide to all things viral, listening in to the trending beauty conversations on TikTok and Instagram. A monthly edit filled with data from our social media data partners, Spate and Tribe Dynamics.

For more information on our Social Books, Inspiration Reports and consultancy services, contact us.

Sources: Cosmetics IC - S1 2025 (January to May 2025)

Spate NYC - TikTok US until Week of May 25, 2025

Decoding the Met Gala 2025: Tailoring, Glam & Heritage

CATRIN DAVIES May 8, 2025

Teyana Taylor - Doechii - Zendaya - Getty Images

On May 5, 2025, the fashion world converged for the 2025 Met Gala to celebrate the opening of The Costume Institute’s new exhibition, Superfine: Tailoring Black Style. This year's dress code, "Tailored for You," invited attendees to explore the rich history and artistry of Black dandyism and bespoke tailoring, resulting in a red carpet filled with bold statements and sartorial excellence. Guiding the night's festivities were co-chairs Colman Domingo, Lewis Hamilton, A$AP Rocky, Pharrell Williams, and Anna Wintour.

The Cosmetics IC team turned a critical eye to the red carpet, spotlighting standout moments and the most compelling interpretations of this year’s theme:

Statement Heritage

Lewis Hamilton - Photo by Miranda Barnes

Superfine: Tailoring Black Style is an appreciation, cultural critique, and reclamation of Black designers who’ve been sidelined from larger fashion conversations. Celebrities reimagined classic tailoring codes with rich cultural references, paying homage to unsung designers, historic style icons, and the radical power of dandyism. These weren’t just clothes, they were layered narratives.

Colman Domingo embodied Black elegance and cultural depth with a layered Valentino look that was both regal and radical. Draped in a cobalt blue cape embroidered with jewels and sequins, he evoked a modern-day monarch. Underneath, he revealed Zoot Suit-inspired separates, windowpane plaid, a polka-dot necktie and boutonniere, and a crisply tailored vest that paid homage to the dandy archetype and the Zoot Suit Riots. Domingo’s stylists, Wayman + Micah, cited art history and Civil Rights references, using fashion to uplift underrepresented heritage. Accessories, from his Boucheron ear cuffs to custom Persol shades, deepened the storytelling. His grooming, a dewy, glowing skin and subtle smoky eye, was a quiet nod to timeless grace.

Actress Laura Harrier delivered a romantic take on classic menswear, reinterpreted through the lens of Black dandyism. Her ensemble, crafted by Gap Studio under Zac Posen’s direction, combined a sharply cinched waistcoat with billowing sleeves and voluminous wide-leg trousers. The contrast between tailored structure and flowing silhouettes created a poetic tension, strength softened by elegance.
This look whispered royalty while nodding to Harlem style codes. Her glowing, minimalist makeup by L’Oréal Paris let the clothes speak volumes, bringing modern femininity into this conversation on gendered tailoring and power.

Lewis Hamilton collaborated with designer Grace Wales Bonner to create a look rich with symbolism and historical resonance. His ivory ensemble featuring a cropped jacket, smoking-stripe high-waist trousers, tails, and a white bow tie, was finished with a sculptural beret and a delicately embroidered waistband. Wales Bonner infused the outfit with storytelling: baobab flower patterns, cowrie shells, and mother-of-pearl buttons referenced African heritage and spiritual traditions. Artistic influences ranged from Barkley L. Hendricks to Cab Calloway, grounding Hamilton’s modern dandyism in ancestral memory and quiet defiance.

Burgundy and Gloss

While tailoring reigned supreme on the carpet, beauty looks added a layer of bold sensuality, none more striking than the return of the glossy lip. This high-shine statement wasn’t just a nostalgic nod to Y2K beauty; it became a power move, a finish that amplified confidence, femininity, and polish across diverse expressions of Black glamour.

For her first Met Gala, Doechii delivered a beauty look that was as fearless as her fashion. Styled in a Louis Vuitton short suit by Pharrell, she elevated the look with a voluminous afro, styled by Malcolm Marquez, and bold, graphic makeup by makeup artist Dee Carrion. Her lips were sharply lined in deep burgundy matching her oversized bowtie, then glossed to perfection, creating a sculptural effect that balanced precision with shine. The bold lip was paired with a cheek stamped with the LV monogram, as well as custom LV grillz designed by Gabby Elan Jewelry.

Zendaya embodied the theme in an immaculately tailored custom Louis Vuitton suit, designed by Pharrell Williams and styled by Law Roach. MUA Ernesto Casillas achieved her signature radiance using Charlotte Tilbury products, including the Sensual Sunset eye palette for a bronzed, defined eye, and the Lip Cheat Contour Duo paired with Big Lip Plumpgasm in Nudegasm Diamonds for a sculpted, glossy pout.

Teyana Taylor arrived in a custom Marc Jacobs creation, a powerful burgundy ensemble highlighting traditional men's tailoring, complete with an impactful hat and a red durag. Her beauty look featured burgundy smoky eyes, power brows, dramatic lashes, a chiseled face, and gradient glossy brown lips. Her hair, styled in glossy waves by hairstylist Chris Appleton, utilized Color Wow Dream Coat Supernatural Spray and tools from Shark Beauty FlexFusion for a sleek finish.

Kiss Curls Take the Spotlight

Bad Bunny - Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris

Coco Jones - Photo by Gilbert Flores for Getty Images

Popularized in the 1920s by performers like Josephine Baker, kiss curls reemerged on the 2025 Met Gala red carpet as a subtle but intentional beauty detail. Unlike fully laid edges, kiss curls involve one or a few strands styled into delicate, sculptural shapes on the forehead. Their versatility, compatible with a wide range of hairstyles, made them a popular choice for a number of attendees, offering a refined, retro-inspired accent.

Bad Bunny walked the carpet in a chocolate Prada suit and two very meaningful accessories that honored his native Puerto Rico. One was a brown woven hat made to look like the straw pavas often worn in the PR countryside; the other was a diamond brooch shaped like his island’s national flower, the Flor de Maga. Bad Bunny paired his chocolate Prada suit with a minimalist grooming moment, yet it was a kiss curl that subtly elevated the entire look. Just one perfectly swooped strand on his forehead added softness to his sharp tailoring, echoing the vintage influences woven throughout the night.

Sydney Sweeney channeled a retro aesthetic with a look defined by sharp lines and a playful, vintage-inspired silhouette. MUA Melissa Hernandez for Armani Beauty emphasized Sweeney’s '60s style with a sharp, smoked-out cat-eye, dramatically accented by a swipe of white eyeliner (Armani Smooth Silk Eyeliner) on the waterline, and a subtle flush was achieved with Armani's Luminous Silk Cheek Tint. While her graphic white eyeliner and smoked-out cat-eye were showstoppers, two kiss curls were styled just above her browlines. Nestled against her polished updo, the curls served as a whisper of vintage coquetterie, delicate and deliberate.

Making her Met Gala debut, Coco Jones wore a cream-colored Manish Malhotra suit, dripping in pearls and lace embroidery, complemented by a slicked-back ultra-long braid nearly touching the floor, with one single kiss curl arcing gracefully onto her forehead. The contrast between the sleek styling and the softness of the curl captured the elegance and edge of this year’s glam direction.

The CIC Take

As always, the Met Gala proved a pivotal platform for beauty, where makeup and hair became powerful storytelling tools. From Doechii’s cheek monogram to the rise of sculptural circular afros, self-expression took center stage. For brands, these visual statements offer rich inspiration and reminders that beauty isn’t just about enhancement but narrative.

Superfine: Tailoring Black Style runs until October 26, 2025

Explore more fashion and social events influencing beauty trends and reshaping the future of self-expression in our latest What’s Up report.

TREND INSPIRATION: SS25 beauty Snapshot

Coralie Arme October 22, 2024

Palomo Spain NYFW SS25 - Lexie Moreland WWD

Following a packed SS25 fashion week schedule, the Cosmetics IC team highlights the most inspirational beauty looks from Paris, Milan, London, and New York.

Loewe (PFW) went futuristic with oversized, silver cat eyes, giving the models an otherworldly and avant-garde appeal. There was a dramatic touch of nature at Simone Rocha (LFW), where floral masks made of carnation petals mirrored the collection for a breathtaking runway look.

Chopova Lowena LFW SS25 - @laurenfreynolds

Area (NYFW) marked its 10th anniversary with a striking, all-over beauty statement. Tattoo-like stencils across models’ faces and bodies echoed the fingerprint-like patterns on the garments. Colourful clusters of gems framed the eyes in a sharp, wing-like design at Chopova Lowena (LFW), adding charm and sparkle to a standout beauty look.

Marni (MFW) made waves with ultra-arched, pencil-thin eyebrows, blending old-school glamour with avant-garde beauty. Palomo Spain (NYFW) stunned with slicked-back hair and bleached brows, paired with bold orange accents for an avant-garde finish.

Diesel’s models (MFW) stunned with colored contact lenses, pushing fashion into sci-fi territory with a look straight out of Dune. Known for their bold designs, Mugler (PFW) pushed boundaries with sharp, V-cut bangs that covered the models’ faces, adding an ultra-edgy vibe.

The CIC Take

This is just a snapshot of our analysis from Fashion Week - contact us for our latest in-depth report.

Credits:
@theimpression_
Loewe
Simone Rocha
Area
@laurenfreynolds
Marni
Palomo Spain
Diesel
Mugler

Sporting BEAUTY: Expanding the codes of luxury

CATRIN DAVIES August 23, 2024

Credits: Getty Images/Christian Petersen/ Shacarri Richardson

As the dust settles after the spectacular closing ceremony of the Paris Olympics, the intersection of two powerful cultural forces—luxury and sports—comes into sharp focus. In recent years, the worlds of sports and fashion have converged in unexpected ways, with athletes transforming from mere sports icons into fashion and beauty trendsetters. This evolution redefines luxury perception, moving it beyond the confines of traditional elegance and into the realm of strength, resilience, and aspirational living.

The Olympics have accelerated this trend, solidifying the connection between sports, luxury, and beauty like never before. As luxury strategist Eric Briones aptly puts it, "As luxury Maisons seek new avenues of influence, aligning with sports movements—particularly the Olympics—means becoming part of a broader cultural shift." For fashion and beauty brands, this is an opportunity to redefine female beauty as not just glamorous but also powerful and healthy—a vision that resonates deeply with a Millennial audience increasingly devoted to fitness and wellness as a lifestyle.

In this article, we explore how the codes of luxury and beauty are being expanded through the lens of sports culture, and what this means for brands looking to stay ahead in an ever-evolving marketplace.

Luxury meets Sports – Fostering common values

LVMH made a culture-changing move when it became the first luxury brand to sponsor the Olympic Games, with a partnership valued at 150 million euros (accounting for nearly 1% of the conglomerate’s 2023 profits). The investment reflects LVMH's commitment to expanding its influence far beyond athlete endorsements and its desire to align itself with the aspirations and ideals of athletes and sports fans alike.

The premiumization of the Olympics signals a clear shift in power dynamics and is part of the wider "luxuryfication" of sports, which sees brands increasingly targeting middle-class consumers seeking to emulate the lifestyles of elite athletes. What unites these, apparently distant, universes is the pursuit of excellence and quality.

From Chaumet-designed medals to French athletes wearing Berluti-designed outfits at the opening ceremony, and medal bearers donning vintage-style, distinctly French LVMH uniforms, the House’s influence has been evident. And LVMH's investment has already yielded impressive results. The brand has dominated social media conversations surrounding the Games, generating significantly more value than its competitors.

Connecting Beauty, Athletes, and Volunteers – A new era of influencers

The Olympics have always been a platform for showcasing athletic excellence, but today, they're also playing a pivotal role in ushering in a new era of influencers. With gender parity achieved for the first time and the rising influence of Gen Z, beauty culture is becoming an integral part of the sporting landscape.

Gen Z’s seamless integration of beauty into their everyday lives has led to a surge in sports and beauty partnerships, with brands like Glossier and Fenty Beauty leaning into the global exposure of the Olympics to extend their influence with this cohort.

Glossier's ongoing partnership with the US women's basketball team not only provides athletes with beauty products but also leverages their massive social media following to propel the brand even further in the minds of consumers. As the popularity of the sport, and the individual profile of its star players, continues to soar, Glossier becomes intertwined with a powerful projection of style, success, and excellence. It’s a magnetic mix, and we can expect to see more of these types of collaborations in the future.

Always a brand taking the most inclusive approach, Fenty Beauty brought another type of influencer to global attention during the Games - the volunteer. Over 600 of them, aged 18 to 21, received Fenty Beauty makeup kits and tutorials, which allowed them to create “designated looks” with guidance from an on-site MUA (Source: Forbes). The global TV exposure of volunteers during the medal ceremonies ensured Fenty products were consistently on show.

Beauty - An empowering medium in sports

Credits: Getty Images/Sam Barnes / Sha'Carri Richardson (left) and Noah Lyles (right)

Forget race times, this year, the Olympics was captivated by a new kind of performance: beauty. Athletes like Sha'Carri Richardson used bold nails, expressive hairstyles, and tattoos to tell their personal stories of resilience and self-belief. From Richardson's Olympic-themed nail gems, emblazoned with her iconic "I'm not back. I'm better" message, to Noah Lyles' electric blue "icon" nails, beauty became a platform for self-expression and empowerment.

It was evident that beauty is increasingly being embraced by athletes as a means of amplifying their stories and achievements on a global stage. In this way, beauty has become an effective medium for connecting supreme health with personal identity. This taps into a powerful cultural shift: 70% of consumers now prioritize health and appearance, and athletes embody that perfect blend (Source: McKinsey & Co - The top wellness trends in 2024 - January 2024). Beauty brands are taking notice, integrating with sports to connect with an audience where fitness is a core part of their self-identity.

The Cosmetics IC Take

In this evolving landscape, luxury brands are venturing into the sports arena, aligning their ambitions with a new cultural movement and embracing values of resilience, health, and elevated performance.

The Olympics have helped to propel a new vision of femininity, one where beauty is intrinsically linked to success. And brands are already adapting to this cultural shift by forging targeted partnerships with sports stars. Serena Williams’ Wyn Beauty, launched in April 2024, exemplifies this integration. Marketed as “makeup you can move in,” Wyn Beauty combines clean, high-performing ingredients with innovative textures designed for active lifestyles. This approach underscores a growing focus on sweat and smudge-proof formulas, addressing the needs of consumers who value both performance and aesthetics.

Similarly, the Athletic Cosmetic Company’s water-resistant mascara, The G.O.A.T. The Greatest of All Time (January 2024), highlights the shift towards cosmetics that withstand rigorous activity. These developments reflect the broader trend of blending beauty with sports, catering to the evolving demands of an active and style-conscious audience.

Further insight and inspiration on the new perceptions of luxury and the links between sport and beauty is available in the agency’s latest trend reports: Higher Perspectives: Makeup Inspiration from the U.S.

Contact the team today for more information!

Gen Alpha – Next Gen Power

CATRIN DAVIES August 20, 2024

Generation Alpha is making waves in the beauty industry as indirect purchasers but also as a major influence over other generations. However, the #SephoraKids phenomenon – young skintellectuals buying into adult-skewed beauty brands - has raised concerns regarding marketing to minors and has triggered a wave of scrutiny into beauty brand ethics. Now, this cohort of 2 billion is being catered to by a new wave of brands that speak directly to their needs.

Who is Gen Alpha?

Gen Alpha is the generation born from 2010 (to 2025), totaling over 2 billion people worldwide - making them the largest generational cohort. More than digital natives, they are also the first generation to experience remote services - from streamed entertainment to virtual classrooms.

Beauty addicts

Gen Alpha is a generation of beauty addicts, with teens now spending an average of $324 annually on core beauty products, up +23% YoY (Source: US - Piper Sander). Gen A’s projected combined spending power in 2024 exceeds $5.39 trillion, surpassing Millennials and outpacing Gen Z. It is clear that there is a huge opportunity for brands to capture the imaginations of this highly engaged demographic.

Major household influencers

Gen Alpha exert more influence over their parents than any other generation that has preceded them - 92% of Gen Alpha parents say their children regularly introduce them to products, services, or brands (Source: DKC’s analytics group). This influence extends over nearly every product category, including Prestige beauty, where spending in households with children outpaces those without (16% vs 6%, Source: Circana). Prestige fragrance sales among higher-income households (over $100,000) with children also grew at twice the rate compared to households without children (Source: Circana Q1, 2024).

Creating a new Eldorado

Progressive brands are beginning to walk the tightrope between appealing to Gen Alpha skintellectuals while mitigating the ethical dilemma of promoting responsible skincare usage.

These include brands like Indu (UK), which has just secured $5.1M in seed funding (led by Unilever Ventures) and will launch into US stores in 2025. Formulated for and by teens, Indu works with a community of over 250 young consumers to develop its product range and marketing campaigns. In June, the brand launched the Indu 101 blog - a content platform designed to educate teens about skincare and provide a safe space for experimenting with new makeup trends. Also taking an educational approach, teen skincare brand Byoma (UK) has created the “MiSKINformed” campaign to highlight misinformation in the skincare space. Bubble (US) recently collaborated with the Pixar movie Inside Out 2 (a movie about the mental health experiences of a pre-teen) to create a three-step barrier-boosting routine designed to address “your days’ ups and downs”.

The Cosmetics IC Take

Between business opportunities and ethical dilemmas, brands must consider this generation with caution. Successful brands already operating in this space (outlined above) not only share an affordable and accessible price point but also share a transparent approach that appeals to both Alphas and their parents. Brands must propose age-appropriate answers to young consumers’ needs and take on the role of educators and myth-busters (as we’ve seen Dove and Kiehl’s do to great effect recently).

As Alphas exert their influence over the industry, the agency continues to pay close attention to their behaviors and needs. To understand the specificities of this fascinating new generation of beauty consumers and explore new business opportunities, contact us today for your Gen Alpha Beauty report. In the meantime, you can explore our latest trend report, Makeup Inspiration from the USA: Higher Perspectives, where we dive into the current dynamics shaping the makeup sector.

Inspiration Tours: Introducing Berlin

CATRIN DAVIES June 13, 2024

Art Museum - Berlin - Copyright - Cosmetics IC / Pic by Solène Albecq

Renowned for its avant-garde art scene, cutting-edge nightlife and conceptual retail, Berlin never fails to inspire. Cosmetics IC recently visited the cultural capital to discover how one of Europe’s most vibrant cities is becoming a key hub for Beauty inspiration. Art Director Solène Albecq reveals her three must-visit stores.

1- HIGHSNOBIETY

Highsnobiety - Copyright - Cosmetics IC / Pic by Solène Albecq

Unter den Linden 40

10117 Berlin

Open: Monday to Saturday 11am-7pm

www.highsnobiety.com

ID Sheet

Purveyor of street and sneaker culture Highsnobiety has opened a new flagship store in the heart of Berlin’s Mitte district. With a raw, industrial aesthetic, the store’s interior embraces the type of utilitarian aesthetic synonymous with 20th-century Berlin architecture. The material palette includes concrete, styrofoam, glass and stainless steel, which provides the ideal minimalistic backdrop to the meticulously curated collection of menswear, womenswear, accessories, sneaker, lifestyle and beauty brands.

Inspiration Seeds

Agility is a key component of the store experience - the vast space is designed for flexibility, and will become a space for community interactions and brand activations. The aim is to build a real-life cultural hub on par with Highsnobiety’s online profile.

2- LAUNDROMAT

Laundromat - Copyright - Cosmetics IC / Pic by Solène Albecq

Stargarder Strasse 74

10437 Berlin

Open: Tuesday to Friday 2pm-8pm, Saturday 11am-8pm

ID Sheet

Laundromat is a new store concept from Adidas that offers clothing rentals, curated second-hand items and collaborations with local artists. Adidas branding is kept to a discreet minimum - the aim here is to emphasise sustainability through rentals and by extending clothing lifespans. Local rental platform Pool offers a hand-picked selection of Adidas items, while the Berlin-based Westend Vintage provides an edit of cult retro streetwear and sneakers (collaborators will change regularly).

Inspiration Seeds

This is a bold concept from Adidas, which leverages Gen Z’s appetite for re-sell and second-hand clothing to elevate its sustainability message. The store, designed to resemble a laundromat, is a constantly evolving space that is intended to platform local creatives, artists and brands that share a community-centric, planet-friendly approach.

3- FRAU-TONIS PARFUME

Frau-Tonis Parfume - Copyright - Cosmetics IC / Pic by Solène Albecq

Zimmerstraße 13

10969 Berlin

Open: Monday to Wednesday 10am-6pm, Thursday to Saturday 10am to 7pm

www.frau-tonis-parfum.com

ID Sheet

A must-visit for fragrance buffs, Frau-Tonis Parfume produces contemporary, unisex scents inspired by nature and the city itself. The minimalistic philosophy extends to the brand’s marketing (there is none) and their sales approach is one of customer-led exploration. All scents are made in Berlin.

Inspiration Seeds

Customers are invited to create their own perfumes, assisted by brand scent experts, and made at the in-store workshop. Everything here is about clarity and transparency - of ingredients and process.

INSPIRATION TOURS

Our Inspiration Tours are individually tailored guides to the world’s best beauty cities. From the K-beauty capital of Seoul to the laid-back cool of Los Angeles - we know where to shop and what to see to inspire your next innovation. Contact the team today for more information.

CONTACT US

For more information, email the team at contact@inspiration-creation.com or visit the website at www.inspiration-creation.com.

TikTok: February 2024 Trend Inspiration

Coralie Arme March 12, 2024

Source : @runscay / @milkydew / @daniellemarcan

Every month the agency listens in to the beauty conversation on TikTok to uncover the emerging trends to inspire your next innovation. In February, inspiration came from corporate beauties and porcelain dolls, as Gen Z’s fascination with role-playing through makeup continued to propel beauty in artistic new directions.

1. Office siren makeup

In keeping with the proliferation of office-friendly looks at Fashion Week (blazer, pencil skirt, tailored shirt...) corporate looks are all over TikTok. Inspired by Bella Hadid’s nod to Y2K office attire, users are recreating the serious but sophisticated makeup style, accessorized by skinny-frame eyewear and clean hair pulled back into a neat bun or accessorized with sensible clips. The makeup is characterized by cool-toned eye shadow in grey/blue hues and discreet liner, a matte powdered complexion, and lightly glossed lips.

Characteristics: corporate dress code/ metal-framed eyewear/ skinny eyebrows/ cool-tone eyeshadow/ matte complexion

Hashtags: #officesirenmakeup: 7,6M views / #sireneyes: 408M views

Videos: @zoekimkenealy / @lottiestarrs / @lenkalul/ / @runsca

2. Rhode lip case

Hailey Bieber’s Rhode has developed a new accessory: a specially molded phone case designed to hold one of the brand’s signature Peptide Lip Tints or Treatments. The ergonomic phone case (which also features tactile buttons and a cushioned grip for easier selfie-taking) doubles as travel-friendly storage for quick, on-the-go touch-ups. Bieber’s original Instagram post featuring the Tint holder has clocked over 2.1M likes, proving once again, the influencer’s ability to create viral content linked to product drops.

Characteristics: portable / travel-friendly / time + space-saving / on-the-go touch-ups

Hashtags: #rhodeskin: 9M views / #rhodeliptint: 4M views / #peptideliptreatment: 30,1M views

Videos: @britishvogue / @biebervelli / @milkydew / @justin_haber

3. Pearl skin

Following Pat McGrath's iconic makeup look for the Margiela Haute Couture SS24 show in January, TikTok’s obsession with ultra-radiant, almost wet-look skin continues to intensify. An Instagram Live tutorial where the MUA revealed how to recreate the hyper-real porcelain skin effect was watched by 17,000 viewers. Interpretations of McGrath’s surreal, doll-like complexions are given a more achievable twist on TikTok, with creators building on the K-beauty #GlassSkin trend to create super-radiant skin that errs just on the right side of surreal. Using serum foundations, soft pink blush and highlighters, the aim is to achieve an allover ultra-fresh skin look with a radiant, pearlized finish.

Characteristics: wet-look fresh skin / super-radiance / pearlized highlighters / pink-coral blush / MAC Hyper Real serum foundation

Hashtags: #pearlmakeup: 9,2M views / #dewymakeup: 106M views / #glassskin: 1,3B views / #glassskinmakeup: 63,7M views

Videos:@daniellemarcan / @saraorrego__/ @maccosmeticsusa/ @sunyatoo/ @hayleybuix / @sadelm3

The Cosmetics IC Take

Gen Z’s fascination with character play continues to inspire new levels of creativity and artistry, as they demonstrate a keen ability to translate catwalk inspiration and abstract concepts into achievable everyday looks.

We explore the evolution of luxury gestures and the growing appetite for extravagance in our 2024 White Book: the Age of Thrill, which is available now. Contact the team today to get hold of your copy.

The Female Gaze: Radically Redefining Korean Femininity

CATRIN DAVIES December 4, 2023

Self-expression, equality, and independence: these are the prominent demands of young Korean women, who, despite continued obstruction, are pushing against established narratives to rewrite the rules of femininity.

Our latest What’s Up Korea report delves into what has become one of the biggest social-cultural shifts in Korea - the rise of feminism and the emergence of new aesthetic codes. With 64% of Korean women in their 20s supporting feminism, this is an issue that is already influencing and shaping K-beauty trends, giving rise to gender-neutral, masculine, and rebellious looks.

Read on to discover key highlights from The Female Gaze - one of five key territories identified in our full What’s Up Korea report - as femininity is radically redefined by the next generation.

1. 4B BEAUTY

South Korea has had a recent history of bold feminist action, from the call to “free the corset” in the late 2010s to today’s radical “4B” movement. The formation of 4B marks an ideological shift as young Korean women mobilize to shake up societal expectations. The four "B’s" are based on the following four principles: Bihon (no to heterosexual marriage), Bichulsan (no to childbirth), Biyeonae (no to dating), and Bisekseu (no to heterosexual sexual relationships).

This radical new thinking bleeds into beauty, fuelling #utilitycore and #militarycore trends on social media, as women absorb traditionally masculine codes into their beauty sphere and K-pop idols proudly go makeup-free. At Seoul Fashion Week, highly functional and gorpcore-esque, clothing came in a muted, military palette that was echoed in the minimalist, colorless and barefaced makeup looks, spotted at Ajobyajo and BLR.

2. GRUNGE GODDESS

Breaking the rules of traditional makeup, the emergence of alternative looks is closely aligned with the rise of feminism. We are tracking a growing trend for glossy lids, hand-drawn freckles (+33.7% YoY increase in Naver searches - Spate NY Tool - Oct 2022 to Nov 2023 vs Oct 2021 to Nov 2022), dark under eyes, teeth gems, bleached eyebrows and piercings. At Fashion Week, the aesthetic was elevated at Vegan Tiger, where models sported exaggerated freckles and glossy lids, while at HEEYONGHeE, the only obvious sign of makeup was a dark purple undereye. Here, hair was almost greasy, with loose strands falling all over the face for a messy, don’t care look.

3. WARRIOR GLAM

Coming out fighting, young women are going to war with the patriarchy. South Korean women are being shown in a new, empowering light - from the success of the new feminist thriller Green Night (starring Fan Bingbing) to the bold feminist lyrics in the debut single of girl group Nugu. Against this backdrop, fashion and beauty are becoming key weapons to articulate women’s dissatisfaction with outdated ideologies. At Fashion Week, Holy Number 7 took inspiration from the boxing gym, with models sporting sparring gloves and head protectors as accessories. In beauty, a more sophisticated coolness emerges, far from the romantic and girly aesthetic that defines mainstream Korean tastes. New brands are inspiring consumers to embrace their individuality, such as the vegan-certified Oddtype, which proposes an embracing of individuality, and beauty that cannot be defined by one type. This brings a fresh perspective to the Korean beauty space, that breaks away from cliches.

THE COSMETICS IC TAKE

Shifting gender politics in Korea will have global implications for the beauty industry, as young Korean women move away from conventional beauty tropes to embrace more radical and expressive looks. This departure will have a huge impact on cosmetics innovation, changing the direction of the Hallyu beauty wave as brands must adapt to stay relevant to politically engaged and empowered consumers.

To get your copy of the full What’s Up Korea report, to arrange a personalised Seoul Inspiration Tour, or for a specialist Seoul Retail Report, contact us today.

TIKTOK: September Trend Inspiration

CATRIN DAVIES October 4, 2023

Every month the agency listens in to the beauty conversation on social media to uncover the emerging trends to inspire your next innovation. Read on to discover the next food-inspired beauty trend and the controversial music video that is inspiring TikTokkers to experiment with provocative beauty looks.

1. STRAWBERRY MAKEUP by Hailey Bieber 🍓💋

Naming skin trends after food has become a trend in itself, and despite some backlash, TikTokkers continue to latch on to these buzzy terms. From latte makeup to potato makeup, food-related shades are capturing the imagination.

In August, strawberry makeup went viral, thanks to Hailey Bieber uploading a photo of herself with a dewy, fresh look, signed off with the emojis: 🍓💋. In doing so, she inadvertently created this summer’s signature beauty trend, #strawberrymakeup. Perhaps not coincidentally, Bieber timed her strawberry post with the launch of a new lip treatment flavour by her brand Rhode; Strawberry Glaze.

The strawberry makeup look is defined by a quick, fresh summer makeup that continues Bieber’s signature style of a glowy, rosy, light complexion created using creamy products. The T-zone is illuminated, while the contour is accentuated by a darker bronzer. The key element is "false freckles", which have been a constant feature over the summer. Finally, the lip contour is worked with a lip pencil and then a gloss to finish.

Key Influencers: @andrea_subotic/ @jamescharles / @glowwithnorhane

Rising Hashtags: #strawberrymakeup – 308.6M views / #strawberrygirl – 60.4M views (September 14, 2023)

Spate Data: TikTok searches for Strawberry Makeup +4386,5% YoY (September 11, 2023)

2. CONTROVERSY by Doja Cat🩸🥀

Doja Cat has never been shy of courting controversy and her latest song, “Paint the Town Red”, is her most provocative creation yet. The TikTok-famous dance anthem flirts with themes of satanic worship, feeding the cultural appetite for transgressive content. In the music video, she is seen embracing the grim reaper, throwing raw meat, wearing pentagrams and devil horns.

Doja Cat’s creative subversions have a loyal following on social media, triggering copycat makeup looks inspired by the themes explored in her controversial content. Adjacent looks play with the aesthetic codes of Paint the Town Red: new romantic, vampiric and gothic gestures, blood red lips outlined with a darker pencil, black and red graphic eyes, fake blood artistry and mis-applied mascara.

Key Influencers: @tyra.mua/@makeup.lois/ @k.figasz e wska/ @jeamyblessed/ @anemariemua/ @sophiasinot

Rising Hashtags: #dojacat – 28.3B views/ #demonsdojacat – 3.4M views/ #painttownred – 6.9M views/ I paint the town red makeup – 18M views (September 14, 2023)

3. WRINKLE ART - taking it back to 2018 -🌪️

The latest creative beauty hack doing the rounds on TikTok was spurred by @nettart (27.7K followers on Tiktok), who created the look that she calls, "metallic chic". To achieve a wrinkle-effect, the model is asked to squeeze their eyes shut tightly, and then metallic pigment is worked over the folds of the inner and outer corners of the eyes. Once the eyes are open a stencil-like effect is created from the negative space of the folds.

Key Influencers: @catquinn / @josiezhou1028/ @meicrosoft/ @f.bermann/ @arsonblue/ @julias_makeup_palette

Rising Hashtag: #wrinklemakeup – 97.8K views (September 14, 2023

The CIC Take

The popularity of Doja Cat’s often shocking social media content confirms the shift towards transgressive beauty influences. Brands should take confidence in the consumer appetite for edgy, alternative looks and develop products that fuel the desire for subversive experiences: such as sticky, visceral textures, gore embellishments, and prosthetics that dramatically alter the features.

Genderful Beauty: Makeup for men hits the mainstream

CATRIN DAVIES May 15, 2023

Source: Pleasing x Marco Ribeiro

Thanks to an influx of TikTok creators, the male makeup category is finally having its moment. Fuelled by the boom in #GRWM (Get Ready With Me) videos, men are more comfortably - and confidently - experimenting with colour cosmetics. In a short period of time, the trend for male makeup has shifted from the red carpet to the shelves of High Street retailers.

Our agency’s latest US Makeup Inspiration book: Beauty’s New Manifesto, explores this new arc of masculine beauty, defined not by an aesthetic ambiguity but by an embracing of all male archetypes.

1- Do you want to #GRWM (Get Ready With Me)?

With 96.4B views on TikTok, the #GRWM hashtag has become one of the most popular in the beauty sphere, as creators share their multistep makeup routines with their followers. Its popularity among male users and content creators has accelerated since the pandemic, propelling the normalisation of men-in-makeup and creating strong consumer demand for male-leaning products and messaging.

Male makeup brand Stryx has built a strong TikTok following thanks to its #GRWM content, which is often fronted by its founder Jon Shanahan. Stryx pushes the boundaries of male beauty beyond gender fluidity: videos where a moustached Shanahan shows how to apply makeup often perform better than those featuring men without facial hair. This type of content is helping to propel men-in-makeup into a new space of acceptance.

Key hashtags:

#GRWM: 96.4B views

#mensmakeup: 363.7 million

#boysmakeup: 22M views

2- A Pleasing Sentiment

In our US Makeup Inspiration book, we highlight the continued influence of Harry Styles’ Pleasing. The brand continues to drive a powerful and genderful approach with inclusive visuals that show products against all genders, skintones and ages. Pleasing empowers men to be part of the colour cosmetics conversation.

The brand’s recent collaborations - a makeup range with fashion designer Marco Ribeiro (September 2022) and the Pollinators nail varnish micro-collection (April 2023) - are designed to encourage infinite experimentation through bold colors - whatever your gender.

Taking a leaf from Pleasing’s playbook, Good Weird is a new genderless Gen Z beauty brand (March 2023) founded by two men and fronted by American model, actor and skateboarder Evan Mock. The brand’s hero product is a bronzer stick that comes in a range of skin-inclusive shades.

3- Mainstreaming Masc Beauty

As the momentum behind male makeup gathers pace, High Street retailers and mass market brands are recognising the growing demand for male-focused products.

UK retailer Boots is bolstering its male grooming offer with the introduction of UK indie brand, Shakeup Cosmetics. The range on offer will include an undereye concealer, tinted BB moisturiser and lip-plumping gel. While in late 2022 Rimmel London named Olympic athlete Tom Daley as tit’s first-ever global male beauty ambassador.

The CIC Take

The consumer perception of masculine stereotypes is rapidly evolving thanks to a new era of male beauty icons and the democratization of skincare and beauty, propelled by TikTok. There is an opportunity for brands to be bold and pitch to the growing male market with messages of creativity and freedom of expression.

For more insight into the metamorphosis of the male beauty category, and others, our latest Makeup Inspiration from the US book is available right now. Contact us today for your copy.

What's next for 'Clean Girl'?

CATRIN DAVIES January 20, 2023

In our latest deep dive report, Makeup Inspiration from the US: Beauty’s New Manifesto, we explore the future direction of the Clean Girl aesthetic, as consumers evolve the trend into artistic new territories.

One of the key aesthetics that emerged in 2022

The Clean Girl look centers on neutral, barely-there makeup, effortless yet glossy hair, and neat but understated nails.

This hyper-clean aesthetic continues to capture consumers’ imaginations, but in the fast-paced world of TikTok, #cleanbeauty (2Bn views) is already evolving into new expressions of minimalism. Consumers are leading with artistry, applying elevated skills to their daily routines to create brilliantly bare-faced beauty looks that shift the no-makeup makeup narrative.

How the #CleanGirl trend is influencing Beauty

Looking at Google search data, analysed by our partners at Spate, ultra-clean aspirations are moving in an ‘ultra-soaked’ direction. Shower-fresh and weather-bitten makeup looks are emerging as the next iterations of Clean Girl.

Spate reveals an upsurge in wet-adjacent search terms including ‘juicy’, ‘dewy’, ‘glossy’, ‘glass’ and ‘jelly’. Year-on-year Google searches for ‘Dewy’ are up +73.6% and ‘Dewy Skin’ is +40.6%, (based on Google searches – 2022 vs 2021).

The Clean Girl aesthetic is not just for the face, we’re also seeing the trend reflected in a growing desire for minimalist nails, as seen in our latest analysis of nail trends.

What it means for Beauty innovation

Consumers understand that there’s more to immaculate skin than meets the eye and they are scouting for products that double-down on benefits - pairing hydration with skin-smoothing - to create the best canvas for their Bare Artistry.

Inspired by the K-beauty trend for skin slugging, new techniques that drench the skin (and hair) in ultra-rich moisture are becoming mainstream, thanks to social media. This movement is inspiring a new generation of clean foundations with super-moisturising capabilities, which are loaded with active ingredients inlcuding hyaluronic acid and precious oils; according to Spate figures, ‘Water-based Foundation’ searches are at +43.9% YoY. Sales of prestige radiant foundations also increased by 42% from January to the end of October 2022, while sales of prestige highlighters increased by 24% (Source: NPD).

Among the key launches in this space, which are highlighted in our report, is Westman Atelier’s Vital Skincare Complexion Drops (August 2022) which has the texture of a serum and the beauty of a skin tint. As a “bare skin” magnifier, it improves skin quality thanks to the inclusion of Tsubaki oil, ginseng and pomegranate extract.

TikTokers are moving on from matte to embrace still-in-the-shower wet looks, and this new direction is about achieving the ultimate all-over gloss on the skin, lids, lips and hair. It’s a look that can be obtained with About Face’s Vinyl Effect Eye Gloss or the Gloss Medium formula from Pleasing, which can be used across the lips, eyes and face to create a radiant allover, high-velocity sheen or applied over pigments to elevate color and obtain a more glossy finish.

The CIC Take

There is an opportunity for brands to investigate new hyper-clean narratives, pairing the fundamentals of the clean aesthetic (hydrated and flawless skin, understated beauty) with creative new interpretations; from ‘I’m Cold’ to ‘Shower Makeup’. These are trends born and evolving on TikTok, where Gen Z creators are expressing the notion of ‘healthy’ in increasingly novel and artistic ways.

We explore the evolution of the hyper-clean trend, and much more, in our latest deep dive report, Makeup Inspiration from the US: Beauty’s New Manifesto. As ever, our research is supported by Spate’s invaluable data insights. Contact us today for more details.

A SNAPSHOT OF FRENCH AND AMERICAN TRENDS - FOCUS ON COLOR

CATRIN DAVIES August 10, 2022

As part of our ongoing partnership with intelligence platform, Spate, we dive into the data behind their latest consumer report and decode what it means for the French and US beauty sectors.

“Spate’s rich data analysis brings deeper insight to our understanding of these distinct markets,” explains Leila Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation. “We are able to leverage Spate’s search analysis data to confirm our prospective vision. It also helps us to better understand nuanced cultural differences and consumer behaviours.”

Spate’s latest report reveals the behavioural specificities emerging from each market. Here are our three major takeaways from the July 2022 France & America: Hair & Makeup Trends Report:

The rise of warm red tones for hair color

In both countries, warm red tones dominate search volume changes. In France, searches for ginger hair are +2.0K; burgundy +1.3K; auburn +1K; and copper +700. While red is the warmest color for French consumers, rising interest in babylights (+1.1K) also suggests a desire for subtlety. Likewise, in the US, red hair is the most searched for hair color with a volume increase of +213.4K, with copper (+36.2K), auburn (+35.8K), ginger (+32.3K) and red highlights (+29.0K) also all featuring in the top ten.

Across both countries consumers are using more nuanced search descriptors to find their desired hair shade, often searching for various colors alongside red hair, demonstrating a growing desire for tonal color with dimension and depth - as well as suggesting a desire for individuality.

As we noted from Spate’s previous report on the US/France skincare market, French consumers lean into the classics - and the hair color category is no exception, with L’Oreal holding out as the most searched-for brand. However, US consumers appear to be more open to challenger brands, such as overtone (+1.4K), adore hair colour (+350) and creme of nature (+260), which top out as the brands with the greatest search volume increase YoY.

Lipstick at the centre of interest

Lipsticks score high by search volume increase in both countries (+14% in France, +37,5% in the US). It is therefore not surprising that lipstick sales have seen a + 28% rise in Q2 -2022 in the US according to NPD.

Long-wear and glossy are at the top of the list for French consumers (+1.7K and +1.1K respectively), while shine (+35.2K) and lasting (+16.1K) score highest for the US.

Interestingly for a country so defined by its love of the classics, magic/colour-changing lipstick is a rising category for French consumers, breaking into the top three most-searched-for benefits with an increase of +770 YoY.

Eyeliners shift from classic to contemporary

Searches for eyeliner are at +8.9% in France and +11% in the US. While white and brown eyeliner are owning overall search volume in both territories, blue eyeliner is also increasingly growing on the consumer radar (+230 in France and +19.1K in the US). Green is also breaking through in the US at +12.5K, with classic black dropping into third place for both countries.

The CIC Take

French consumers are slowly shifting away from the classics, and are exhibiting growing interest in on-trend, contemporary colors and formulations. The uptick in searches for more niche lipstick benefits (such as ‘color-changing’, ‘waterproof’ and ‘sheer’) present opportunities for brands to inspire with innovative new concepts. What is emerging is a shift towards greater expressions of individuality, which is apparent in growing searches for nuanced hair colors and bolder eyeliners.

Download the full report here.

What’s Next

The agency will explore this opportunity in detail at the upcoming MakeUp in New York event, where Leila will be joined by Olivier Zimmer and Addison Cain of Spate to discuss the major global drivers fuelling the appetite for pleasure and individual expression. In the second of four Beauty Talks hosted by the agency at Makeup in New York, Leila, Olivier and Addison will deep dive into Joy-Care – Beauty in the Name of Pleasure, leveraging the most recent Spate consumer data insights, based on the analysis of online search data from the US, France and the UK.

Meet the team at the MakeUp in New York, September 14 & 15, 2022 at River Pavilion - Javits Center, New York

Beauty Talk #2 - Joy-Care – Beauty in the Name of Pleasure

September 14, 3:30 pm – 4:15 pm at the Beauty Agora

Pleasure Dosing – The New Beauty Rapture

Leila Rochet May 10, 2022

At Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation we have been tracking the beauty-as-empowerment trend, noting the elemental need for products that bring wellness through joy. A quick dopamine hit goes a long way in a post-crisis society, and consumers are discovering new ways in which to access pleasure through makeup and boldly express their individuality.

We’ve been following the upsurge in TikTokers creatively articulating a sense of unfiltered joy through bold and colorful looks applied with incredible artistry. In recent months we have watched nail art grow from a niche into a mainstream form of self-expression, and we have traced the latest revolution of luxury color from understated to exaggerated.

Consumers are Pleasure Dosing their way to wellness with products that approach the art of beauty as an act of self-expression. Brilliant neons, chameleonic colors, face stickers, nail art and body adornments - are all rising on the consumer radar. Spate data shows an uptick in searches for Glitter Eyeliner (+41,8%), Rhinestone Nails (+26,3%) and Eye Gems ( +38,4%). Bold lip and eye colors are also on the up - searches for Orange Lipstick are +161,6% and Green is up +38,2%.

Freed from restrictions there is a deep desire to revel in color and creativity, and use makeup as a tool of transformation. Brands must develop products that deliver an instant shot of happiness, and meet the demand for unrestrained glamor.

We see Pleasure Dosing developing in three distinct pathways:

● Dopamine Reality: Superbrights popped at NYFW, where designers played with autumn-winter conventions to deliver collections packed with saturated hues. There was brilliant yellow and citrus orange, Yves Klein blue and hot purple - colors that are resonating with pleasure-seeking consumers. Neon eyeliners, ultra-pigmented candy-colored lipsticks and punchy, one-swipe eye products can deliver the beauty dopamine hit that consumers are craving.

● Luxury Reinvented: Consumers are creating an aesthetic diversion from the At Home lifestyle of the last two years. Mastering sophisticated looks with new beauty accents, inventive finishes and alluring enhancements, luxury is reinvented for the new “Age of Hedonism”. With searches for “Glam Makeup Look” up +76.3% (1), consumers are opting for saturated lip colours, glitter cut creases, high shimmer complexions and metallic chrome finishes - Studio 54 filtered through a Y2K lens. Features are enhanced and turned up to the max, with volumizing and plumping products that deliver ultimate sophistication and look-at-me moments. And as the masks come off, lips are once again the focus.

● Festival of Fakery: Freedom unleashes the beauty peacocks, who are taking the opportunity to express themselves with a maximalist’s approach armed with lavish adornments, including face stickers, body gems and false, embellished nails. This is the armory of pleasurable transformation, enabling consumers to creatively switch up their looks whenever the urge takes hold. These products are also interesting in the context of an increasingly 2D, digitalized world, reintroducing three-dimensional color, opulence and texture into our daily lives.

Don’t miss the conference/ workshop of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation at the MakeUp in Paris on June 16-17 (to be confirmed), 2022. In this conference, Leila Rochet, founder and Chief Inspiration Officer of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation, will decode the Pleasure Dosing trend and what it means for the industry, and share examples from the latest international launches. Leila will be joined by Julien Lutz of Spate, the partner company of the agency, who will share the latest market data from the Spate research tool.

Conference of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation with the participation of Spate.

Source: (1) Spate - Google Searches in the U.S. Year Over Year ending April 2022

COSMeTICSEEDS

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From exposome defense to neuro-aging: the new frontiers of skin longevity

Climate intelligence: tackling the exposome and inflammaging

Cellular health span: longevity moves to the core of skincare

Neuro-aging: the rise of the brain-skin axis

Advanced delivery systems: from ingredients to intelligent performance

THE CIC TAKE

1. Chanel Beauté ans Performance-Led Femininity

2. Sephora’s Activation in Competitive Sport

3. La Roche-Posay Under Extreme Conditions

THE CIC TAKE

From Clean Claims to System Thinking

Clean Is the Baseline

Regulation Is Accelerating Change

Packaging: Beauty’s Next Transformation

Commitment as the New Competitive Advantage

The Strategic Outlook for 2030

Entering the Age of Flow

Performance Becomes the New Beauty Standard

The Rise of the Performance Consumer

Devices and Technology Redefine Efficacy

Science Is Raising the Bar for Innovation

The Strategic Challenges Ahead

The Future: Beauty as a Performance System

The cic take

1. Superhuman Future: The optimization era

2. HUSH STATE: Protective harmony

3. LIBERATING REWARDS: Pleasure by design

4. HANDS OF MASTERY: Human expertise, elevated authority

5. REBEL IDENTITY: Rule-breaking reinvention

Puffed-up pants

Joyous celebration

Teal shades

Colorful lashes

Care radiance

The CIC Take

Statement Heritage

Burgundy and Gloss

Kiss Curls Take the Spotlight

1- HIGHSNOBIETY

2- LAUNDROMAT

3- FRAU-TONIS PARFUME

CONTACT US

Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Forecasting and Consulting office specialized in Beauty Innovation