Trend Hunting at MakeUp in PARIS 2025

Photo: Cosmetics IC - Our Booth - Our Conference - Nuon

The 15th anniversary edition of MakeUp in Paris, held at the Carrousel du Louvre, set a new benchmark for inspiration, expertise, and innovation in the global beauty industry. Our team was proud to present our conference, “What’s Up in the U.S.? – The Market Shifts Redefining Global Beauty”, and delighted to connect with many of you at our booth, where we shared our expertise and highlighted our latest initiatives.

This year’s show was a celebration of creativity and collaboration, with over 145 exhibitors from more than 20 countries presenting their flagship launches and breakthrough solutions. Here are the standout innovations that captured our team’s attention on the show floor:

#1 – Nuon Medical – Compact Skin Analyzer

Nuon Medical’s Compact Skin Analyzer brings advanced diagnostic technology directly to the beauty counter, empowering both brands and consumers with real-time, actionable skin data. Equipped with detection sensors, the device provides instant feedback on skin condition (oil and hydration levels), enabling the personalization of skincare routines. It features integrated 630nm red light therapy to stimulate skin renewal and improve texture, while microcurrent technology tones facial muscles and reduces sagging - delivering a holistic approach to skin health in a compact, user-friendly format.

Why is it interesting? These diagnostic tools empower both brands and consumers to make informed decisions, enhancing skincare regimen effectiveness and supporting the trend toward hyper-personalization.

#2 – Jotim – Rose Essence Oil

Jotim’s Rose Essence Oil redefines multi-functional skincare with a formula that addresses hydration, oil balance, soothing, and repair in a single step. Featuring aromatherapy-grade rose essential oil and red myrrh, it creates a sensorial ritual while delivering targeted benefits: soothing redness, regulating sebum, and supporting all skin types - including oily skin. The innovative three-layer moisturizing technology ensures 16 hours of hydration, while a biomimetic barrier supports the skin microbiome and strengthens resilience.

Why is it interesting? This three-layer oil offers a “one bottle for total care” approach, combining sensorial pleasure with clinically relevant benefits for modern, minimalist routines.

#3 – Cosmecca Korea – Banana PDRN Eye Serum

Cosmecca Korea’s Banana PDRN Eye Serum targets dark circles in the delicate “banana zone” under the eyes with a plant-based, silicone-free formula. Leveraging banana-derived PDRN, it brightens and revitalizes tired under-eyes, providing a gentle yet effective solution for puffiness and dullness without the use of silicones.

Why is it interesting? This serum stands out for its plant-based version of the popular ingredient PDRN - offering a compelling vegan-friendly alternative.

THE CIC TAKE

The 2025 edition of MakeUp in Paris demonstrates that the future of beauty lies at the intersection of technology, multifunctionality, and ingredient innovation. From Nuon Medical’s data-driven analyzers to Jotim’s sensorial formulations and Cosmecca’s targeted clean skincare, the industry is moving decisively toward solutions that are both effective and delightful.

As MakeUp in Paris continues to serve as a “think tank” for the industry, it’s clear that the next era of beauty will be defined by personalization, science-backed efficacy, and a commitment to sustainability.

Our latest “What’s Up - U.S. Inspiration” ans “Open Horizons - Skincare & Wellness” trend reports are available now.

Contact us for more details.

3 Days of Design 2025 - Design That Speaks to the Senses

Photo credits: @charlottetaylr - Tekla - Bread and Butter

Copenhagen, June 18–20, 2025 - In just a few years, 3 Days of Design has quietly become one of the world’s most anticipated design events. More intimate than Milan, more fluid than Paris, it has carved out a space for itself with the same effortless elegance as Copenhagen, the city it calls home. This year’s theme, "KEEP IT REAL", is a call for design that is authentic, emotional, and deeply human.

Across historic showrooms, atmospheric installations and temporary creative residencies, a powerful narrative emerged: design is entering a new sensorial age, where material, function and feeling are inextricably linked.

 

Tekla -  The Romance of Comfort

Tekla

At the majestic Charlottenborg Palace, Copenhagen-based textile brand Tekla unveiled its new collection through a dreamlike installation titled Modern Romance. Known for its minimalist homeware, the brand reintroduces broderie anglaise in a contemporary, understated way: refined bed linens made with organic cotton and delicate trims, echoing heirloom quality with a modern twist.

Set among wooden beds in a scenography by architecture studio Mentze Ottenstein, the exhibition created a compelling dialogue between the ornate, historic surroundings and the quiet intimacy of crafted textiles. The collection draws on the rich decorative codes of European bedding traditions, yet distills them into something simple, pure, and emotionally tactile. It’s a sensitive blend of heritage and softness, illustrating our growing desire for rituals, textures, and a gentler rhythm of life.

 

Bread and Butter - Objects in Perfect Harmony

Bread and Butter

At Korean restaurant Ouri, the Bread and Butter exhibition presented a whimsical and thoughtful exploration of complementary objects for the dining table. Curated by Hee Choi and Pyeori Jung, 12 international designers created custom pieces inspired by the warm, comforting palette of bread and butter, from pale cream to rich brown.

A chromatic range that just so happens to echo our Color of the Year “Lime Butter”: soft, sensorial, and full of possibility.

Highlights included: 

  • Mouth-blown carafes with sculptural coasters by Maria Bruun 

  • A resin wine cooler and tray set by Forever Studio

  • An off-kilter ceramic cup and saucer by Hun Lee that balance each other with poetic precision

More than just beautiful objects, these designs expressed a deeper message: that harmony lies in relationships, between forms, functions, and gestures. The idea of the perfect pair becomes a metaphor for a more intentional, interdependent way of living, one rooted in collaboration and care.

 

Home from Home - A Study in Light and Emotion

@charlottetaylr

At Noura Residency, a cinematic apartment-style location, art director and designer Charlotte Taylor presented Home from Home - an evocative exploration of domesticity. In a series of atmospheric rooms featuring emerging and established talents (including chairs by Kasper Kyster and stone glasses by Diego Sanchez Barcelo), Taylor invited visitors to reflect on the emotional choreography of space: where objects settle, how light moves, and how the textures of daily life build meaning over time.

This is not a static home, but a living one, suspended between stillness and transformation. It’s an invitation to consider not only how we live, but what lives with us.

 



The Sound of Material - Tactility at the Core

The Sound of Material

Curated by Natalia Sánchez, The Sound of Material brought together 25 designers and makers working across ceramics, textiles, paper, lighting, glass, and more. Each piece explored the transformative potential of materiality, whether rooted in centuries-old craft or driven by new design technologies.

From hand-shaped surfaces to digitally generated forms, the works invited us to engage physically and emotionally. Sensoriality, through texture, weight, sound, and presence, was the unifying thread. This was design that doesn’t just decorate space but activates the senses, reminding us of the quiet power of the objects we live with every day.

 

The Cosmetics IC Take

At Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation, we see the 2025 edition of 3 Days of Design as a clear signal: design is becoming more sensorial, intentional, and emotionally intelligent. And this evolution holds deep relevance for beauty, wellness, and luxury brands. Here are some of the most strategic insights:

  • Elevated sensoriality: In a visually saturated world, touch, light, scent, and texture offer powerful, differentiated experiences. Brands should think beyond visual aesthetics to create multisensory rituals and emotional anchors.

  • Comfort as modern luxury: Tekla’s blend of minimalist design and romantic detailing taps into a broader yearning: for comfort, nostalgia, and softness. Modern luxury today is less about opulence, more about emotional refuge.

  • Complementary design thinking: The idea of pairs, as explored in Bread and Butter, opens fresh territory. Products that complete each other or interact in intuitive ways (like tool + formula, care + gesture, serum + scent) foster deeper engagement.

  • Designing for everyday rituals: Home from Home reminded us that small, daily interactions matter. Brands have the opportunity to design for how people really live, considering moments of pause, care, and quiet transformation.

The New Well 2025: Where Innovation Meets Beauty

From May 16 to 18, 2025, the Carreau du Temple in Paris hosted the third edition of The New Well, a festival dedicated to the future of beauty and well-being. Our team attended the three-day event to explore emerging trends and innovations firsthand. Gathering over 100 pioneering brands and industry leaders, the experience offered masterclasses, product demos, and networking across beauty, wellness, nutrition, and lifestyle.

The New Well Festival - Photo By Cosmetics IC

The Next Step in Asian Beauty: A Tech-Driven Revolution

Bijo: The Essence of Japanese Beauty Tools

Founded by beauty expert Keiko Suyama, Bijo is Paris’s premier destination for cutting-edge Japanese beauty technology. The boutique features advanced tools such as the YA-MAN MediLift EMS Lifting Mask, which uses electrical muscle stimulation to tone and sculpt the lower face, specifically targeting the Masseter and Zygomaticus muscles.

Another highlight is the CoreFit Face-Pointer II, a precision device for targeted lymphatic drainage and muscle relaxation. It includes two attachments: a Single Rod for focused pressure and a Triple Rod for gentle, distributed stimulation across broader areas like the cheeks and forehead. These professional-grade tools allow users to achieve salon-quality results at home, improving skin texture, firmness, and radiance with regular use.

Bijo - Photo By Cosmetics IC

Maison Kōsane - Photo By Cosmetics IC

Maison Kōzane: The Parisian Home of High-Tech K-Beauty

While much of the K-Beauty wave centers on affordable, youth-focused products, Maison Kōzane curates high-end, niche brands and advanced tools that replicate professional facial treatments at home.

Among the innovations showcased was the Korean Air Brush Lift using Ruby-Cell technology, a patented device that blends airbrush application with lifting massage techniques for facial contouring and enhanced glow. Another standout was La Nouvelle Peau The Lift Pro, which uses near-infrared light to reduce inflammation, tighten pores, and enhance skin texture, offering an alternative to traditional clinical treatments.

 

 

Science Meets Skincare: The Rise of Medical-Grade Beauty

Skin Diligent: Epigenetic Skincare for Cellular Longevity

Skin Diligent stands at the forefront of a new wave in skincare, leveraging the science of epigenetics to influence skin health at the cellular level. Their products are powered by epigenetic ingredients, antioxidants, and microbiome-friendly actives, targeting the eight hallmarks of cellular skin health, from telomere protection and melanin regulation to regenerative capacity and hydration. The brand's technology is designed to optimize the skin's ability to repair and renew itself.

Among their product range, the Vitamin C Serum-in-Oil stands out. Unlike traditional water-soluble Ascorbic Acid, this serum uses a stable, oil-soluble form of Vitamin C that penetrates deeply without causing irritation or oxidation, delivering potent antioxidant protection directly at the cellular level.

Skin Diligent - Photo By Cosmetics IC

Credits - Clarté Laboratoire

Clarté Laboratoire: Ophthalmology-Inspired Precision for Skin Longevity

Clarté Laboratoire, born from over 20 years of expertise at Horus Pharma in preservative-free ophthalmic care, brings a unique medical perspective to skincare. The brand's mission is to optimize cellular resilience and prolong skin longevity by applying the strictest medical standards to every product.

Clarté's formulas are sterilized using UHT technology, preservative and fragrance-free, and contain a maximum of 15 rigorously selected ingredients to minimize the risk of irritation and maximize efficacy. The innovation extends to packaging, with airless, patented glass bottles that protect formulas from oxidation and contamination, ensuring the integrity of each active ingredient over time.

 

Breaking the Mold: Disruptive Formats & Unconventional Innovations

Lyfta: Facial Kinesiotape - A New Era of Non-Invasive Skin Lifting

Lyfta introduces pre-cut kinesiotape patches, specifically engineered for the delicate skin of the face. Inspired by medical kinesiology, these patches are designed to increase blood circulation, stimulate lymphatic drainage, and support facial muscles, without releasing any active ingredients. These patches facilitate oxygen and nutrient delivery, support collagen and elastin production, and promote skin lifting and toning.

The Cheek and Mouth Kit features two shaped tapes, each tailored to target areas like marionette lines, nasolabial folds, cheekbones, and mouth corners.

Lyfta - Photo By Cosmetics IC

Ozza - Photo By Cosmetics IC

Ozza: Fresh Skincare Powered by High Pressure Processing (HPP)

Ozza uses High Pressure Processing (HPP), a technique from the nutrition world, now applied to cosmetics. Unlike conventional methods that rely on heat or preservatives (which can degrade active ingredients), HPP preserves nutrients in their purest, most bioactive form. Through this process, the formulas maintain their potency and absorption properties, supporting the skin's natural functions. All products in this line come in single-use sachets to guarantee freshness.

Maison Kosé: Japanese Heritage Meets Scientific Precision

Maison Kosé brings Japanese beauty expertise to France through its Decorté and Sekkisei Blue product lines. Sekkisei Blue applies the Kampo philosophy's three fundamental elements to skincare: Ki (vital energy), Ketsu (blood circulation), and Sui (water balance). The brand's diagnostic approach determines a personalized serum-oil formulation based on these elements.

Each component serves a specific function: Ki supports vital processes, Ketsu ensures nutrient transport and skin radiance, while Sui maintains hydration levels. Through this system, Sekkisei Blue aims to restore balance among these elements for optimal skin health.

Maison Kosé - Photo By Cosmetics IC

The CIC Take

The New Well 2025 demonstrated the convergence of scientific innovation, sustainability, and experiential beauty. Drawing from Asian beauty traditions, medical advances, and emerging brand innovations, the skincare industry is evolving. This transformation points to a future where skincare solutions become increasingly personalized, technologically advanced, and adaptable to individual needs.

Our team of experts is available to work on your latest innovations or tailor an inspiration report specific to your need.  

Contact the team for more details.

NYCxDESIGN 2025 Guide: Emerging Design Codes

@audocph - @kikigoti - Les Collection by @lisaluvsit

From May 15 to 21, New York City will once again become the stage for NYCxDESIGN, the city’s annual festival of design innovation. Stretching across all five boroughs, from Manhattan’s galleries to Brooklyn’s studios and Ridgewood’s creative hubs, the event celebrates a pluralistic vision of design rooted in identity, independence, and social engagement.

This year’s edition reveals a distinct shift in tone. Unlike the theatrical opulence seen in Milan, NYCxDESIGN 2025 centers emerging voices and independent studios, foregrounding design as both a functional discipline and a cultural message.


Shelter - Vol.1: Mart Nouveau

Les Collection - @lisaluvsit

@audocph

@atelier_ollin

A debut fair curated by Afternoon Light, Shelter gathers over 100 brands and studios. From names like Les Collection or Audo Copenhagen to Atelier Ollin, it creates a hybrid landscape where collectibility, market-readiness, and storytelling converge. A democratic showcase for design in the post-retail age.


Biome by Lichen Studio

@vyvoistudio

@weskn0ll for @malcolmransome

@yuxuan_huang__

In Ridgewood, design shop and studio Lichen curates a show shaped by ecological thinking. Biome explores the relationship between physical environment and creative identity, featuring work by artists such as Yuxuan Huang, Vy Voi, Malcom Ransome and Reginald Sylvester II. It’s a meditation on material memory and the porous boundary between past and present.


Outside/In - Lyle Gallery

@pauljmillerphoto for Monica Curiel

@kawabi

@soft.geometry

At Lyle Gallery on the Lower East Side, Outside/In draws inspiration from the Outsider Art movement. This multidisciplinary exhibition, led by queer and women founders Lin and Magdalena Tyrpien, amplifies experimental, self-determined voices such as Soft Geometry, Kawabi and Monica Curiel. The result is a community-rooted exploration of design as resistance and personal mythology.

Forced Perspective

@sahrajajarmikhayat - Ellen Pong

@kikigoti

@sahrajajarmikhayat - Office of Tangible Space

A timely, two-day exhibition, Forced Perspective examines how design responds to misinformation and fragmented narratives. Curated by NJ Roseti, Kiki Goti, Caleb Ferris, and The House Special Studio, the show presents collectible works by 15 New York-based talents, including Office of Tangible Space and Heechan Kim. Furniture and objects become vessels for political critique and collective memory.

ICFF x WANTED – Designing in Harmony

Daniel Gruetter

@ryin - Ah Um Design Studio

@juniperdesigngroup

At the Javits Center, the International Contemporary Furniture Fair returns with a renewed focus: sustainability, inclusivity, and emotional connectivity. Under the theme Designing in Harmony, the fair spotlights emerging voices through the WANTED platform, such as Ah Um Design Studio and Daniel Gruetter, while installations by Grohe and Juniper point toward a softer, sensory future of space-making.

THE CIC TAKE

NYCxDESIGN 2025 highlights a clear shift: design is becoming more intentional, contextual, and community-driven. For brands, this means moving beyond aesthetics to engage with creators who embody cultural relevance and ethical resonance. This design week offers not only a glimpse into tomorrow’s aesthetics, but into the ethics, values, and systems that will define the next decade of design.

For more cultural decoding and insights, check our other articles.

Trend Hunting at MakeUp in Los Angeles 2025

Photo: Cosmetics IC - Innovation Awards - Venice Beach - Capsum

MakeUp in Los Angeles X LUXE Pack 2025: A Standout Year for Beauty Innovation

The Feb 2025 edition of MakeUp in Los Angeles X LUXE Pack marked a stellar year for the West Coast’s premier beauty event, drawing over 4,928 visitors and an impressive lineup of exhibitors unveiling their latest innovations.

From cutting-edge formulations to breakthrough packaging solutions, here are our “coup de cœur” innovations that caught our eye:

#1 – Formula - Over the Rainbow Lip&Cheek - ARTCOSMETICS

A breakthrough in hybrid beauty, that integrates three distinct textures—creamy blush, glossy balm, and radiant highlighter—into a single, travel-friendly tool. Engineered with advanced molding technology, it preserves the integrity of each formula, ensuring seamless application and optimal performance. Its ergonomic triangular design enhances precision, catering to the demand for intuitive, multi-functional beauty solutions. Compliant with Sephora and Ulta Beauty CLEAN standards, this innovation reflects the market shift toward high-performance, responsibly formulated products.

By combining sensorial richness with cutting-edge technology, ARTCOSMETICS delivers a versatile, on-the-go essential for modern beauty routines.

Why is it interesting?: We love the clean, visually attractive, 3-in-one formula – glossy, jelly, and creamy in a drop-shaped stick.

#2 – Formula - Moisture-Boost Splash Cream - JO COSMETICS, INC.

The Moisture-Boost Splash Cream merges Japanese skincare artistry with innovative Splash technology. This gel-cream features a unique two-layer structure, with 80% serum encapsulating potent beauty ingredients. Upon application, it bursts into a refreshing fluid, deeply hydrating while addressing dryness, dullness, acne, wrinkles, pores, and irritation. Its completely transparent formula showcases advanced fermentation science, delivering a transformative skincare experience in every jar.

Why is it interesting?: This formula embodies the Japanese art of formulation, featuring a completely transparent gel-cream made with 80% serum.

#3 – Packaging - Paperfoam Twist Up Stick - TOLY GROUP

Toly’s PaperFoam Twist Up Stick

Toly’s PaperFoam Twist Up Stick pioneers a fully paper-based retractable mechanism, a feature previously only achievable with plastic. Unlike existing options that blend paper and plastic, this innovation delivers a high-performance, user-friendly alternative without compromising functionality. By solving a key challenge in paper packaging, it offers a truly sustainable solution for eco-conscious consumers.

Why is it interesting?: A groundbreaking plastic-free design with a fully functional paper-based mechanism.

#4 – Accessory - The Dream Ring - IMEI DIVISION

The Dream Ring is a jewel-like facial massager designed for on-the-go use. This elegant ring effortlessly targets hard-to-reach areas, combining beauty and functionality in a compact accessory. Its sleek, ergonomic design allows for a soothing facial massage anytime, enhancing circulation and relaxation with a touch of style.

Why is it interesting?: Embodying our Key Prediction for 2025, The Culture of Delight, The Dream Ring combines a joyful beauty ritual with a comforting self-care moment, encapsulated in a cute wearable. 

#5 - Packaging -  Nuon – Technology-infused skincare cap 

Nuon Medical Technologies integrates clinically proven light therapy directly into skincare packaging, turning the cap itself into an active treatment tool. This smart packaging utilizes blue light to eliminate acne-causing bacteria and red light to stimulate collagen production, reducing fine lines and wrinkles. Designed for targeted treatment, it enhances absorption and accelerates visible results, with studies showing up to 75% acne reduction and 30% more collagen production.

Why is it interesting? This is a game-changing fusion of skincare and clinically-proven light therapy delivered in a super-convenient format.

THE CIC TAKE

The standout innovations from MakeUp in Los Angeles 2025 highlight how beauty is embracing technology, sustainability, and multifunctionality to enhance both performance and user experience. As predicted in our 2025 Key Predictions white book, The Age of Resonance, beauty is evolving with tech-infused skincare, eco-conscious packaging, and ergonomic design that simplifies routines while delivering efficacy and delight. These innovations perfectly align with the industry's shift towards practical, sensorial, and science-backed solutions.

The Age of Resonance is available now. Contact us for more details.

COSMETIC360 - Strategic Innovations Shaping the Future of Cosmetics

Death to Stock - Daniel Faro

At Cosmetic360 on October 16-17, 2024 in Paris, the Cosmetics IC team explored key innovations redefining the future of beauty, from eco-conscious alternatives to bio-inspired actives, advanced UV defenses, and transformative textures. These discoveries reflect the industry’s strategic response to rising demands for sustainability, biomimetic technology, and long-lasting efficacy. Here, we highlight the standout technologies that promise to shape the next generation of cosmetics, addressing critical market needs with groundbreaking solutions.

1. Eco-Conscious Innovations: The Rise of Microplastic Alternatives in Cosmetics

As consumers increasingly seek sustainable cosmetic solutions, interest in microplastic alternatives has surged (U.S. Google searches for microplastics are up +73.7% YoY - Spate (from Oct 2023 to Sep 2024 vs. Oct 2022 to Sep 2023)). This demand has fueled innovations in microplastic-free ingredients designed to offer functional and environmentally friendly replacements.

  • Codif - Sensory Apple Pomace

Derived from upcycled Brittany apples, this micronized apple powder provides an alternative to PMMA, a microplastic soon to be banned in Europe. Sensory Apple Pomace delivers a matte, blurring effect on redness and imperfections, while tribology tests demonstrate its enhanced softness, reducing friction sound on the skin for a smoother sensory experience.

A fully biodegradable alternative to petroleum-based polymers, Dionymer’s PHBV is made through fermentation and is 100% biobased. This microplastic-free solution replicates the functionality of PP, PE, and PLA without the environmental impact, supporting cleaner, sustainable formulations.


2. Nature’s Defense Mechanisms: Biomimetic Skincare Innovations 

As bio-inspired ingredients gain popularity in skincare (global TikTok views for biomimetic have risen +21.3% YoY - Spate - (from Oct 29, 2023 to Oct 27, 2024 vs. Oct 30, 2022 to Oct 29, 2023)), novel active ingredients are emerging, rooted in nature’s adaptive mechanisms and refined through advanced biotechnology.

After eight years of research, Solabia developed Serenibiome, a bio-inspired ingredient derived from the epiphytic fungus Pseudozyma flocculosa, which naturally protects plants by producing lipids that guard against environmental stressors. This glycolipid-based active, stabilized through a biomimetic fermentation process, is designed for sensitive and atopic skin. Serenibiome selectively targets Staphylococcus aureus, a bacterium commonly linked to skin inflammation, helping to rebalance the microbiome, reduce neurogenic inflammation, and repair the skin barrier. Clinically tested, Serenibiome reduces redness, itching, and dryness, while increasing hydration and supporting the skin's overall resilience.

Shiloxome is an innovative anti-aging ingredient designed specifically for mature skin, particularly those affected by menopause or post-menopausal changes. Using the pioneering Triplobiome™ Technology, Shiloxome draws from endophytic organisms naturally present in cork oak. This yeast-derived active mimics the cork’s defense mechanisms, which protect it from environmental damage. Shiloxome offers strong anti-pollution and antioxidant benefits and promotes relipidation by boosting ceramide NS synthesis, helping to restore the skin’s protective barrier and resilience against urban stressors.


3. Advanced UV Defense: Long-Lasting Protection and SPF Boosting

With growing interest in long-lasting UV protection (global Google searches for Long Lasting + Sunscreen are up +77.2% YoY - Spate (from Oct 2023 to Sep 2024 vs. Oct 2022 to Sep 2023)), new innovations are enhancing sunscreen efficacy and durability.

Awarded the COSMETIC360 Raw Materials Award, SkyWhite offers a multifunctional cellulose-based alternative to titanium dioxide. Its 3D structure reflects UV rays, boosting SPF without TiO2. SkyWhite also emulsifies formulas and adapts color intensity: added in water, it produces a whiter effect, while in oils, it amplifies color depth.

Skinosive’s Bioadhesive Technology secures active ingredients on the skin’s surface, demonstrated in tests on chemical UV filters. It enhances protection by adhering sunscreen to the stratum corneum, preventing deeper penetration and offering up to 8 hours of proven UV defense, even under external stress.

4. Revolutionary Textures: Helical Emulsion in Cosmetics and 3D Printing

In the realm of innovative formulations, two cutting-edge technologies are reshaping cosmetic textures, merging precision and advanced design for a superior sensorial experience.

  • Experis - Helical Emulsion Technology

Experis introduces a new philosophy in natural formulation with its Helical Emulsion Technology, a sensory-driven, multifunctional approach (99% natural origin). Unlike traditional emulsions, where oil droplets remain separate and release rapidly, Helical Emulsion Technology distributes oil along this helical matrix, achieving a continuous, controlled release. This structure provides a gradual, immersive sensory experience, optimizing skin affinity, enhancing penetration, and creating a seamless fusion with the skin.

This patented 3D printing technology creates futuristic, airy textures in solid cosmetics. By incorporating up to 99% air in a controlled three-dimensional matrix, these cosmetics offer a lightweight application, reducing the greasy or sticky feel of traditional balms and sunscreens. The unique 3D structure also improves foaming in rinse-off products by increasing air and water interfaces, while the design minimizes oil content, enhancing texture and sensory appeal.

The Cosmetics IC Take

The innovations showcased at Cosmetic360 illustrate a robust evolution toward products that blend functionality with sustainability, bio-adaptive properties, and sensory appeal. These advances affirm the cosmetics industry’s commitment to both environmental responsibility and scientific innovation, positioning it to meet growing consumer expectations with high-performance, eco-responsible solutions.

Our team of experts is available to work on your latest innovations or tailor an inspiration report specific to your need.   

Contact the team for more details.

IN-COSMETICS GLOBAL 2024: OPTIMAL FUTURE - THE RISE OF RADICAL SCIENCE

Source: Deathtothestock - Photo by Daniel Faro

Following three days of intense innovation-hunting at the recent in-Cosmetics Global 2024 (April 16 to 18, Paris),  our experts have identified 4 key trends that will transform the world of cosmetic ingredients.

Our full coverage of the show will be published in the upcoming report, Ingredient Innovation: Inspiration from in-Cosmetics Global 2024. Below is a taster trend from the team’s comprehensive analysis - read on to discover ingredients at the cutting edge of science.

OPTIMAL FUTURE: THE RISE OF RADICAL SCIENCE

While consumers are increasingly aware of the impact of science and new technologies, suppliers are responding by developing ingredients that allow brands to create even more technically elevated products.

Growing trust in the science community (57% of respondents rate scientists as trustworthy) should spur brands to invest in forward-thinking innovations. Accenture reports that brands championing science-led claims secure 2.5 times more venture capital funding compared to their counterparts focused solely on natural and sustainable claims. This is fertile ground for beauty brands, who have an opportunity to leverage science-backed formulations and innovations as a cornerstone of trust and credibility in their offerings.

1. BIOMIMETIC BOOSTERS

The exosome boom

As exosomes gain interest in cosmetics for their application in anti-aging solutions (US Google searches for Exosome Therapy have increased +82.5% YoY*), there has been a significant increase in exosome-related ingredient innovation. The surge in exosome-based formulas will help propel the exosome market size to $3.2B in 2032, growing at a CAGR of 29.9% from 2023. 

This new exosome ingredient is derived from antioxidant-rich Camellia Callus. The exosome has a high-absorption function, due to being 184-462 times smaller than skin pore size and key claims include anti-inflammatory (18.86% reduction in Nitric Oxide) and whitening effects (13.00% reduction in extracellular melanin production).

Exolab has harnessed the active power of organic exosomes derived from untreated Camellia Sinensis, rich in polyphenols and catechins. Exo-Elixir Camellia Sinensis encapsulates key active ingredients like EGCG and vegetable Melatonin for neurocosmetic effects. Other innovations include exosomes derived from Alpine Rose for photo-aging, Liquorice for elasticizing, and fresh fruits for skin repair. 

Source: Exolab - Photo by Cosmetics IC at in-Cosmetics Global 2024

Created from the synergy of three exosomes found in lactobacilli, these probiotic ingredients claim to have superior anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects that help maintain healthy skin. The bacteria-derived exosomes calm irritation, prevent pigmentation and strengthen the barrier.

Bio-mirrors 

New innovations promise next-level efficacy, mimicking biological functions to improve skin penetration and active assimilation.

Drawing on a vast data set that integrates various technology platforms, in silico and biomimetic Peptide design, and marine biology research, LipoTrue™ has developed Frag-Brillin remastered™, a biomimetic fragment of human Fibrillin-1 grown in plants. It enhances skin elasticity by triggering TGFβ repair response, bolstering cellasticity, and reducing wrinkle-inducing microfibril degradation, thus revitalizing skin's structural integrity and appearance.

Source: LipoTrue - Photo by Cosmetics IC at in-Cosmetics Global 2024

Corneopeptyl™ represents an innovative biomimetic Peptide, synthesized through green chemistry. It mirrors the activity of the LCE6A Protein, fortifying the corneocyte envelope to enhance skin barrier function and tackle premature aging by diminishing wrinkles and enhancing skin texture, firmness, and moisture levels.

Opal Alga harnesses dynamic light-responsive technology, inspired by the behavior of Cystoseira Tamariscifolia, to revitalize fatigued skin impacted by modern stressors. It harmonizes the skin’s microenvironment and restores its natural circadian rhythm for renewed vitality. Inspired by algae's adaptive behavior to light cycles, Odycea aims to optimize photosynthesis efficiency, illustrating their commitment to biomimicry in skincare innovation.



2. FAST-TRACKED FUNCTIONALITY 

Bio-inspired delivery systems

Several suppliers were inspired by nature to create new delivery systems that improve active access and allow for deeper penetration.

Active Concepts is at the forefront of personal care innovation with core technology platforms including BioFermentation, Complex Actives, Extracts, Proteins, Delivery Systems, and Functional Materials. Their groundbreaking BioAuthentic Exosomes line introduces exosome-inspired delivery systems tailored for specific skincare benefits, such as AC ExoVitalize, which enhances cellular processes like oxidative phosphorylation and glycolysis, promoting a rejuvenated and lifted appearance at the cellular level.

Bicobiome® targets oily scalps prone to dandruff, rebalancing the microbiome, reducing sebum formation, restoring scalp barrier function, and eliminating dandruff scales. Inspired by skin biology, Bicosome® mimics the skin's transportation system, the lamellar bodies. Upon application, Bicosomes® fuse with the skin surface, allowing smart disks to selectively penetrate targeted skin layers and deliver actives. Subsequently, Bicosome®-ordered lipid structures integrate into the skin matrix, reinforcing the barrier function without compromising skin health.

Plant-based delivery systems

Plant-inspired delivery systems leverage natural compounds and mechanisms to enhance the efficacy and bioavailability of active ingredients.

The biotechnology firm based in Strasbourg, France, specializes in engineering plants to produce valuable Polypeptides for the cosmetic industry. Peauvita™, blends plant biotechnology with growth factors, incorporating Oleosomes - naturally occurring carriers found in all plant seeds - to ensure advanced skin delivery and controlled release, representing a transformative approach to skincare.


3. SMART BEAUTY

AI-optimized ingredients

With continued advancements in AI capabilities, suppliers are now using this technology to improve and optimize their ingredients and help find new formulation solutions.

LipoTrue – SP[AI]3™ (Spain)

SP[AI]3™ is a smart Peptide obtained in silico through AI among thousands of candidates, with optimal binding and specificity. It precisely targets key acne influencers to modulate sebum synthesis, reduce pore size and obstruction, and decrease inflammation.

Source: LipoTrue - Photo by Cosmetics IC at in-Cosmetics Global 2024

AI-assisted development

Bloomcolla Col Ⅲ employs AI assistance to accurately select fragments rich in active human collagen sites, ensuring a final sequence that is completely homologous with human collagen. Its environmentally friendly production process offers advantages in safety and purity. Notably, Bloomcolla Col Ⅲ possesses unique active sites capable of binding to 11 integrins, effectively activating cell signaling pathways and providing superior soothing and repairing abilities.

Actigum™ Care, with its 94.5% natural composition and innovative blend of starch and sclerotium gum, presents a sustainable alternative to traditional petro-based polymers. It provides superior functionality and sensorial enhancement through AI-based development.



The Cosmetics IC Take

New scientific developments offer outstanding benefits for beauty brands, as suppliers leverage the latest biomimetic technology to create potent, sustainable ingredients that double-down on efficacy. The integration of AI will continue at pace, promising next-level advancements and accelerated performance, hyper-attuned to individual specificities. 

Ingredient Innovation: Inspiration from in-Cosmetics Global 2024 will be available soon.

Contact the team for more details.

 

(*Source: Spate NY - US Search - from April 2023 to March 2024 vs. April 2022 to March 2023)

Ingredient Inspiration: Cosmet’Agora 2024

Arthur Mazi via Unsplash

The 16th edition of Cosmet’agora was held in Paris on 16 - 17 January 2024, showcasing the latest ingredient and formulation innovations. Fresh from the event, our Scientific & Product Expert, Enora Le Roux, deciphers the emerging ingredient trends that will impact tomorrow’s beauty. Below, discover 3 fields of innovation to inspire your future product creation.

“This year saw the influx of technology and science as the answer to tomorrow’s primary concerns around issues of sustainability, innocuity, and wellness.”  Scientific & Product Expert at Cosmetics IC, Enora Le Roux. 


1. Biotech - When nature meets new extraction technologies

Google search data reveals there is still high demand for biotech ingredients (+7.5% YoY, with a forecast increase of +24.3% over the next 12 months, according to Spate), as consumers lean into the possibilities of tech-enhanced nature to support their high-performance expectations. 

Provital – CircanblueTM (July 2023)

As the conversation around cyclical biorhythms gains traction in the wellness space (#circadianrhythm – 116.6M views on TikTok, January 2024) Provital demonstrates how overexposure to digital technology disrupts the peripheral circadian clocks in the skin, which play a key role in regulating its physiological metabolism. 

In response, Provital developed Circanblue™,  a vegan postbiotic active obtained via a plant-based fermentation of Lactococcus lactis. It re-synchronizes the skin’s natural circadian cycle after this has been altered by excessive Blue Light exposure - a concern growing amongst consumers on social media (#bluelight – 471.8M views on TikTok, January 2024) as they align their wellness and skincare goals.

Key Assets:

Vegan postbiotic / Obtained through biotechnology from cabbage (fermentation) / Regulates the skin’s circadian clock 🡪 “circabiology – science of resynchronization” / Regulates the impact of Blue Light on the circadian cycle

Lipotrue – Calisensix (January 2024)

Addressing rising cases of skin sensitivity, Lipotrue has developed Calisensix, a unique solution that resolves neurogenic inflammation while at the same time enhancing pleasant sensations in the skin.

Calisensix™ targets sensitive skin from both a holistic (sensorial) and biological approach, using plant stem cell technology obtained from the bark of white willow and tomato plants. There is growing interest in the potential regenerative benefits of stem cells for skincare - Spate reports a +27% increase in Google searches YoY( 2022 vs 20223), while TikTok views of #stemcells have clocked over 231.7M (January 2024).

Key Assets:

Resolves neurogenic inflammation / Targets nociception in keratinocytes / Boosts PIEZO1 to enhance pleasant sensations in sensitive skin

Biolie – Garnet Red (January 2024)

Meeting the continued demand for ultra-healthy cosmetics ingredients, Biolie has developed a solvent and water-free enzymatic extraction process - a zero-waste, 100% green technology. This bio-based enzymatic extraction method enables the creation of natural actives from plant-based raw materials, such as microalgae, beechnut, chicory seed, and lettuce. The lab’s latest ingredient, launched at the show, is Garnet Red - a natural lipophilic red dye for makeup and skincare applications.

Key Assets:

Natural antioxidant / Stable to heat and UV / Sustainable, 100% natural / Vegan alternative to Carmin

 
 

2. Longevity - Answering pro-aging/pre-aging concerns

The science and semantics of longevity are entering the skincare conversation, as the desire to live longer and healthier impacts consumers’ expectations of skincare performance. Biohacking culture, spurred by outrageously ambitious procedures undertaken by Silicon Valley billionaires, is taking over TikTok, with views of #reverseaging videos clocking over 180.7M views (January 2024).

In skincare, “anti-aging” ingredients are now “pro-longevity” ingredients. 

Lubrizol – Uplevity e-Lift Peptide (September 2023)

Tapping into the rising interest in Microcurrent Facials (+27% increase in Google searches in 2023 vs 2022, according to Spate), Lubrizol has captured the uplifting and firming results of microcurrent devices into a sustainable and naturally derived tetrapeptide. The powerful active mimics the benefits of electrical stimulation on the skin, increasing collagen production and improving mitochondrial function for an anti-aging effect. 

Key Assets:

Peptidic active / For lifting and firming effect / Focus on the up of the face (eye contour) / Inspired by the effect of the microcurrent tools: stimulate an electric stimulation of the derma (cell contraction) / Results at 7 and 28 days

Mibelle – RejuveNAD (November 2023) 

The role of NAD+ in cellular processes continues to gather interest, with consumer searches for NAD up +24.2% YoY (2023 vs 2022, Spate), as they investigate ways of boosting regeneration for anti-aging results. 

RejuveNAD™from Mibelle introduces the possibility of boosting NAD+ levels in the skin through cosmetic applications (rather than via supplements). The ingredient, derived from indoor-farmed sunflower sprouts,  targets age-related processes by optimizing cellular functions, and revitalizing the skin by naturally boosting levels of NAD+. According to Mibelle, the skin looks eight years younger in 42 days. Google searches for NAD have increased +24.2% YoY 

Key Assets:

NAD booster / For skin longevity / Obtained from sunflower sprouts from indoor farming / Acts on 5 of the 9 pillars of skin aging

3. Adaptive: Formulating for climate-adaptive freshness 

The post-pandemic revenge travel surge is set to continue, with 54% of respondents saying they’ll take even more international trips in 2024 than they did in 2023 (Going – The State of Travel – 2024). A culture of nomadism is fuelling a new category of Flexcare - beauty adapted for the unique specificities of travel, which prioritizes convenience and freshness. In this context, we noted several key innovations that center claims of climate-adaptiveness and refreshing sensations. 

The return of travel and rising global temperatures are driving consumers to search out cooling and refreshing sensations - TikTok views of the hashtags #skincarecooling and #skincooling are at 280.1M and 43.8M, respectively ( January 2024).

Unipex – Frozen Glow - Meeting this rising demand is Unipex’s Frozen Glow, which is formulated for a deeply refreshing effect. Frozen Glow contains peppermint leaf water, which stimulates blood circulation to restore the skin’s radiance and impart cooling and toning benefits. 

Key Assets:

Solid emulsion water/wax / Contains H2Olixir Peppermint from Berkem for purifying, toning, and refreshing / A combination of two inverse emulsifiers: Evicare® PGPR from Evident & GlucateTMDO from Lubrizol / Using a new brand’s technology to add hydrophilic actives

PolymerExpert – AquaStick

Combining the need for a convenient format with refreshing effects, the AquaStick is formulated to deliver the fresh feeling of water on the skin, with the soothing sensation of a cream. There is huge interest in on-the-go suncare formats - TikTok views of the hashtag #skincarestick are at 277.8B (January 2024) - presenting a huge opportunity for innovation.

Key Assets: 

Innovating galenic: solid format with 50% of aqueous phase / 100% natural fragrance with aquatic notes that enhance the sensation of freshness


Roelmi France - Ready Stick Go

Designed specifically to combat the effects of sports on the skin, the water-free stick contains microbiota actives that impart a cooling effect while keeping the skin hydrated during activities.

Key Assets:

Water-free / Fast hydration / Cooling effect / Multitasking functionality 

 
 

Special thanks to all the exhibitors for taking the time to explain their new ingredients.

The Cosmetics IC Take

In our latest Skincare Inspiration from the US report – Transformative Beauty - we explore the product and ingredient innovations impacting the US market and decipher the implications for future innovations.

Contact us today for your copy, and for details of our upcoming animations at MakeUp in Los Angeles (Feb 14/15 2024). Find us at booth L36, where we will host our signature Inspiration Bar and Beauty Talks, highlighting our future predictions for 2024 and beyond.

Trend Inspiration: Maison&Objets 2024

Wint Design Lab - Photo by Cosmetics IC

With the theme of Tech Eden, the 30th-anniversary edition of Maison&Objet (18-22 January, Paris) invited exhibitors to consider how the symbiosis of technology and nature will inform future design scenarios. 

Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation’s Coralie Arme, Forecasting & Insights Consultant, explored the show at Paris’ Parc Expo Villepinte, to uncover the top 3 fields of innovation to inspire future-focused solutions for the beauty industry. 

“This year's theme explored the vital links between technology and nature, showcasing future-facing design that improves overall well-being and prioritizes environmental sustainability.” Coralie Arme, Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation Consultant in Forecasting and Insights. 

1.Symbio-tech: Augmenting nature

WINT Design Lab perfectly embodied the show’s symbiotic emphasis, as the Berlin-based design and research lab explored the relationship between ecological and technological responsibilities.

The studio overcomes disciplinary silos to tackle today's challenges through various projects including bio-textile innovation. Collaborating with biotech startup Mimotype, WINT has developed a high-performance outdoor textile created from 100% collagen. Through this future-proof innovation, the design lab is tapping into the potential of quick iteration cycles.

In beauty,  there is a growing normalization of human augmentation through technology (AI-supported healthcare, adaptive and personalized systems, circadian rhythm lighting, etc).  Harnessing technology to stimulate natural processes, Solaris Laboratories’ LED Intensive Hair Growth Stimulating Brush is an advanced hair and scalp treatment technology that helps prevent hair loss and reverse thinning hair. 

Wint Design Lab - Photo by Cosmetics IC

Solaris Laboratories NY - Photo by Cosmetics IC

2. Upscaling waste: Imagining new-gen materials

Mâche&Maché is a culinary design studio committed to exploring the hyper-future of food. For the show, at the “Inspire me!” by Peclers corner, the studio showcased “Papier Alimentaire” - an edible (and decorative) packaging material made from waste fruit and vegetables designed for large-scale use in the food industry. According to the studio, for sustainable food to be widely accepted, it must offer a more desirable experience than today's standard fare.

In the wellness corner, Japanese brand Incense Kitchen showcased a new incense created from repurposed matcha. The brand advocates recycling matcha into tea incense (instead of perfume) to prevent the wasteful disposal of fine matcha particles in factory machines and air purifiers, providing an alternative and more sustainable outcome.

Mâche&Maché x Peclers - Photo by Cosmetics IC

Incense Kitchen - Photo by Cosmetics IC

3. Healing homes: Anti-anxiety interiors

When one crisis follows another, the actions needed to respond sometimes seem out of reach. Modern society is gripped by an anxiety epidemic, and designers are charged with providing solutions that holistically ease discomfort. The notions of sensoriality and fluidity are thus at the heart of tomorrow's design challenges. 

Furniture and objects exhibited sinuous, undulating curves to give everyday settings the air of primitive landscapes with spiritual dimensions. Roundness is as de rigueur as ever, transforming living spaces into cocoons of comfort. Sofas, armchairs, and chairs play a common score, that of an enveloping, reassuring hug.

Mathieu Lehanneur's "Outonomy" offers an alternative vision of survivalist habitats. By questioning the kind of life we want to lead, Outonomy proposes a return to an original cave, with the comforts we no longer wish to give up.

In beauty, Austrian skincare brand Be […] my friend uses only the purest organic, plant-based ingredients to provide maximum care for the skin, while at the same time minimizing stress. The two pillars of the brand are to elevate the way the skin is treated, while simultaneously elevating the way the environment is treated. 

“Outonomy” by Mathieu Lehanneur - Photo by Cosmetics IC

Be [..] my friend - Photo by Cosmetics IC

The Cosmetics IC Take

Tech Eden suggests a Protopian vision of the future - a natural awakening, enriched by technological innovations - from biotextiles and 3D printing to AI-powered design. Nature remains omnipresent through radical interpretations of color, form, and material.

In our latest Makeup Inspiration from the US report - Protopian Beauty - we investigate the latest product innovations in the US and explore how technological acceleration is paving the way for a  more progressive future. For more information on this report, and for details on our upcoming animations at MakeUp in Los Angeles (Feb 14/15 2024) - drop us a line today.