HIGHER FUTURES: Decoding the science & tech Beauty revolution

Source: DeathtotheStock: Photography by Nick Fancher

The pandemic propelled the dynamic digitalisation of our lives; we invited new technologies and scientific solutions into our homes (and bodies) as we sought new approaches and answers to rapidly emerging challenges. In the interim years we have seen the propulsion of Artificial Intelligence further expand our expectations and experience of the world, its capabilities presenting enticing opportunities for brands to develop truly amazing new products and services.

As consumers recognise that science and technology hold the keys to the quest for heightened efficacy, performance, and pleasure, investment in science-led beauty brands is exceeding that in nature-led brands by 2.5x.(1) Within this context, Cosmetics IC developed the strategic perspective of Higher Futures—a call for brands to lead with technology, leverage consumer trust in science, and address the demand for STEM-based beauty solutions while solving humanity’s major challenges.

At a special conference for MakeUp in Paris 2024, Cosmetics IC invited attendees to discover the transformative impact of a science-centric approach to beauty. Read on for an extract of our presentation, where we highlighted three strategic territories for investigation: Augmented Science, Amplified Reality and Post-natural Future, representing the opportunities that await those brands open to leading with science.

Augmented Science: Next-level efficiency

Traditional categories are being redefined by heightened expectations for performance and perfection, influenced by the ubiquity of derma procedures and the growing emphasis on well-being. This compels brands to investigate hyper-personalised solutions and at-home experiences, leaning into the latest technologies to biohack the body, boost longevity, and elevate the daily beauty ritual. AI-powered devices, smart materials and precision-personalized formulas will blur the lines between clinical and convenience.  

  • STEM-symbiotic solutions are infiltrating all categories as society awakens to the transformative potential of new technologies. At New York Fashion Week, designer Christian Cowan collaborated with Adobe to produce an electronically activated dress meticulously crafted from hundreds of laser-cut polymer liquid crystals. The dress becomes a “dynamic canvas,” intuitively shifting in color and tone several times a second.

  • At VivaTech 2024, L'Oréal unveiled Cutaneous Technology, a revolutionary bioprinting process that recreates human skin in its full complexity. This breakthrough allows for inclusive and realistic testing across all skin types, paving the way for personalized beauty products and potentially accelerating advancements in dermatological research and burn treatment.

Amplified Reality: Interversal senses

Defying physical boundaries, human-tech symbiosis is creating "intraversal" realities - universal experiences that bridge the digital and physical worlds. This union opens up new possibilities, evoking joy through immersive encounters and the integration of phygital realms. These advancements not only enhance our capacity for interconnectedness but also introduce novel sensations. A new dimension of sensory experience, characterised by tactile hedonism, is emerging, enriching our perception and engagement with the world. This level of intense immersion is being adapted into the retail experience as brands re-imagine physical stores as sensory playgrounds primed for consumer engagement.

  • Across all categories and industries, technology is being used as a conduit to amplify sensation. At Milan Design Week 2024, Samsung Design's "Newfound Equilibrium" exhibition took visitors on a multi-sensory journey through five spaces, each exploring a different aspect of a harmonious future where technology seamlessly blends with humanity. The exhibit showcased the promise and potential of technology in enriching our lives. 

  • At VivaTech 2024, Guerlain pushed the boundaries of fragrance with an olfactory VR experience. Visitors donned a custom headset and entered a world where iconic Guerlain scents were paired with AI-generated landscapes and the perfumer's creative whispers, showcasing the growing interplay of technology and emotion in art and design. 

Post-natural Future: Deep engagement

In the future, a new intelligence will emerge to respond to the need to create sustainable models that prioritize both survival and empathy for our planet and nature. In this context, technology must be used with intention and functionality, focusing on delivering outcomes that benefit people and the environment. This vision of the future will require combining efficiency, aesthetics, and pleasure while keeping sustainability a central mission. Brands should be encouraged by growing consumer support for synthetics - 20% of  U.S. consumers recognize lab-grown, natural-identical ingredients as effective and safe (22%). (2)

  • Forward-thinking solutions are redefining how we source, create, and utilise resources across different sectors. As one of the major polluters of drinking water across the globe, the textile industry is leading the way in eco-friendly innovation. UK brand Normal Phenomena of Life is pioneering “grown-to-order” lifestyle products, combining the expertise of a design research laboratory and a biotechnology company. The first launch includes clothing dyed with bacteria, prints made with algae ink and objects made with bio-concrete designed by microbes.

  •  Equally in the world of beauty, science and technology are allowing for the development of sustainable, vegan solutions that offer an alternative to chemicals. Always leading with innovation, The Unseen Beauty has developed The ABSORPTION collection featuring Algae Black™, the world's first non-toxic and sustainable black pigment for beauty products.  

The COSMETICS IC Take

  • Brands must embrace radical innovation that delivers effectiveness,  sensorial pleasure and sustainability. 

  • Imagine modular textures and fragrances adapting to climate or thermal conditions alongside multi-level experiences that engage touch, smell, and sight. 

  • The fusion of technology with the body is taken to extremes by billionaire biohackers, but despite the sci-fi ramifications, “longevity” has quickly become a mainstream pursuit. This should inspire brands to develop new products, treatments, and rituals that promote hyper-health. 

  • Inspiration from the advancements in sustainable sourcing and production within the fashion and textile industries can provide valuable insights for the beauty sector's journey towards a more responsible future.

Dive Deeper

 

Further insight and inspiration on the rise of science and technology in beauty is available in the agency’s latest trend reports: Beauty Protopia: Skincare Inspiration from the US . Contact the team today for more information!

Contact us

For more information, email the team at contact@inspiration-creation.com or visit the website at www.inspiration-creation.com.

Follow us on LinkedIn (Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation) and on X, Instagram and TikTok (@cosmeticseeds)


Sources:

(1). Accenture - The reinvention of beauty - 2023

(2). Mintel- Beauty and Personal Care Trends - 2023

THE RISE OF PRO-AGING: TRANSFORMING THE NARRATIVES AROUND AGE

Source: Haus Labs

The relation to aging is in deep metamorphosis, and the Beauty industry needs to adapt to this evolution. With Gen X and Boomers living longer and looking to age gracefully, and Gen Z undertaking preventive measures like Botox, the “anti-aging” market is shifting toward a well-aging movement. The longevity narrative infuses all categories, from skincare to makeup, transforming the conversation around “anti-aging beauty” (a taboo word since 2017 in Allure USA magazine). 

In its latest Inspiration Report: Beauty Protopia, Cosmetics Inspirations & Creation explores the trend for Pro-Aging Solutions and spotlights the demand for products that empower healthier (not younger) aging. 

The tide is turning on anti-agism. From the success of ABC’s The Golden Bachelor (#TheGoldenBachelor hashtag has been viewed 148.4M times on TikTok – April 2024) to 88-year-old Dame Maggie Smith’s star turn in Loewe’s Spring 24 campaign, there is a groundswell of positive sentiment (and coolness) towards diverse age representations in fashion and media. 

Aging Positively – The new cool mindset 

Cultural momentum has been fuelled by TikTok, where a new wave of age-positive influencers, filters and viral challenges are helping to build a positive discourse around aging. 

The #TurningMyMomInToMe TikTok trend (460.7M views – April 2024) joyfully sees Gen Z daughters dress like their mothers and vice-versa, while the Age Progression Filter shows users smiling as their face changes over 50 years. On TikTok, makeup for #matureskin (576.7M views - April 2024) is also gaining momentum, propelled by a new generation of "maturetokkers", such as @collen_heidemann (383.6K followers – April 2024) who started her influencer journey at age 69. 

These gestures are reinforcing #agepositivity (27.8M views on TikTok – April 2024) at a time when the world must learn to adjust to the needs of an aging population. By 2050, there will be 2.1 billion people aged 60 and over, and consumers are taking control now to ensure live better for longer. Most Americans (76% according to Ipsos - American affluents spending $200B on wellness annually - July 19, 2023) actively do things to maintain or improve their health, with 92% of consumers believing the best approach to healthy aging focuses on inside-out well-being. 

This mindset shift creates an opportunity for brands to inspire consumers with solutions that support and enhance healthy aging, through every life stage. 

Mature Skin Makeup 

With a sharp rise in searches for mature makeup (+30.3% on Google in the USA - Spate Tool - US Google Search - from Apr 2023 to Mar 2024 vs. Apr 2022 to Mar 2023), brands are stepping up to cater to this demographic. Offering "skinified" formulas, they enhance luminosity and combat signs of aging with youth-boosting ingredients. 

The age-positive beauty brand Flyte.70 targets specifically the mature skin market with age-appropriate formulations that address specific issues of mature skin. The brand opened a flagship store in October 2023 in Massachusetts, with not only their brand but also 14 other brands. 

At the same time, we witness a growing number of beauty brands showcasing their products' efficacy on mature skin, not only meeting consumer needs but also fostering inclusivity and authenticity. This strategic move not only boosts brand image but also sets new standards for beauty. 

Here are some interesting examples from our inspiration basket from our last Makeup-Up report. The Haus Labs Triclone Skin Tech Hydrating + Depuffing Concealer (September 2023) is demonstrated on both young and mature models. It is powered with 20+ skincare ingredients including the brand’s patent-pending Fermented Arnica. Flexible pigments allow the concealer to adhere and adapt to the skin, making it comfortable for all skin ages. 

Lifting and brightening results have become desired features of the healthy aging aesthetic, and will become important elements for brands to consider in their innovation. Like, Physician Formula Eye Booster Eye Lifter (October 2023) - a 2-in-1 eyeshadow that delivers an instant lift thanks to its Tri-Peptide blend. 

Interest in Peptide-packed products that boost Collagen and Elastin while beautifying will continue to gain traction and become key to the “pro-aging” makeup kit. Reeson’s Lid Elixir (July 2023 - new brand) is a Peptide-rich tinted lifting serum developed for the eyelids. The brand positions itself as age-inclusive, its tagline, "Glow isn't just for 20-somethings”, actively encourages older consumers to embrace their mature skin. 

Learn more

For more information on The Rise of Pro-Aging, and for details on how to obtain a copy of Beauty Protopia: Makeup or Skincare Inspiration from the US, find the Cosmetics IC team at the MakeUp in Paris Trends Space - Booth T4, May 29th & 30th 2024. 

HOT SKINCARE TRENDS ON TIKTOK: BUZZING BRANDS AND LATEST TRENDS - MARCH 2024

Sources: @paularmzz: Bubble - Solar Matte / @dermarkologist: COSRX - The 6 Peptide Skin Booster / @theshealyfam: Sknbody - Hair Identifier Spray

Derma-influences continue to dominate the SkinTok conversation, with trending products linked to routines that promise to optimize skin health, from #skinflooding to #skinstreaming. Working with data analysis supplied by our partners Tribe Dynamics and Spate, the Cosmetics IC team has analyzed the latest skincare trends and products going viral on TikTok. Read on for our cut of the most interesting innovations and inspirations to emerge during early spring, 2024.

TOP TRENDS

1 - Skin Streaming

Fewer products, serving multiple purposes: this is the pillar of the #skinstreaming trend which involves adopting a routine that gives your skin exactly what it needs, at the right time, without overwhelming it with products. This considered approach ticks the boxes on functionality, cost-saving, skin sensitivity and sustainability, meeting the prevalent needs of young consumers. 

#Skinstreaming - 51.3M views/ +34460% MoM/ +16660% YoY

2 - Skin Microbiome

Ongoing conversations around skin health propels interest in the microbiome. Both customers and brands acknowledge the importance of maintaining a healthy biome as part of a holistic beauty routine, which drives interest in new products and routines adapted to reinforce the skin barrier. This conversation is fuelled by TikTok derma-influencers who are effectively communicating the importance of healthy bacteria in enhancing skin appearance.

#Skinmicrobiome - 36.3M views/ +9077% MoM/ +454% YoY

3 - Matte Sunscreen

As the warmer months approach in the West, the conversation turns to suncare. Sophisticated new formulations address the demand for a non-greasy, shine-free finish, as consumers embrace sun protection as part of their daily routine. K-beauty favorite, Beauty of Joseon’s Matte Sun Stick is gaining traction thanks to its smooth, non-sticky finish, developed with cosmetic chemist and influencer, @glowbyramon. 

#Softmattesunscreen - 13.1M views/ +2533% MoM / +507% YoY 

BUZZING BRANDS

1 - COSRX 6 Peptide Skin Booster Serum 

This multi-peptide skin booster was originally launched in August 2023 but is gaining traction due to its alignment with the #skinflooding (265.9M views) trend. Formulated with 6 different Peptides, it targets fine lines, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, all while smoothing and firming the skin. The product has become a favorite among fans of the skinflooding technique - where products with diverse ingredients and delivery methods are layered to create a moisture sandwich. 

Skin Flooding - +2292% YoY

2 - I’m From - Rice Toner

The Rice Toner from I’m From has been instrumental in shaping the rice toner trend, which is seen as a key step to achieving #GlassSkin. Infused with skin-soothing rice extracts, the toner exfoliates, hydrates, brightens and refines the complexion, while forming a protective barrier to prevent water loss and improve radiance. 

#ricetoner - 93M views/ +2955% YoY

3 - Sknbody - Hair Identifier Spray

This novel product demonstrates the growing appetite for new innovations linked to cosmetic treatments. The spray simplifies dermaplaning by coloring the hairs on the face white, making them more visible for shaving. The product’s high visual appeal and strong before/after potential helped it create a buzz on the platform when influencers began testing the product in March. 

#sknbodysprayfcialhairshavekit - 159M views

The Cosmetics IC Take

We will be publishing a deep dive into the latest viral TikTok trends and weak signals in our upcoming Social Book 2024, dedicated to skincare and wellness. Sign up to our newsletter to be the first to hear when our new report drops. 

(Sources: Cosmetics IC - March 2024 / Spate NYC - US TikTok searches - MoM (March 2024 vs February 2024) & YoY (April 2023 to March 2024 vs from April 2022 to March 2023)