FRENCH TOUCH - 3 CULTURAL PILLARS & INNOVATION DRIVERS IN BEAUTY

Unsplash - Photo by Victoria Krivchenkova

Between terroir, pharmacy culture and freedom of expression, French beauty draws from deeply rooted cultural references. These key pillars, among others, are shaping a new generation of products and rituals: more grounded, more expert-led and more emotional. Three dynamics that are contributing to the renewed global influence of French Beauty today, as France once again confirms its status as the world’s leading cosmetics exporter, with €22.4 billion in exports in 2025 (FEBEA, February 2026).

TERROIR - ROOTED INGREDIENTS

French beauty is deeply connected to terroir, herbal traditions and a strong attachment to the land. Rooted in a rural imagination and local craftsmanship, this vision celebrates endemic resources, made-in-France expertise and a form of naturality anchored in specific territories, an imaginary that strongly resonates with consumers, as 64% of French people say they prefer natural ingredients (Mintel, 2025). Responsible harvesting, French biodiversity and short supply chains are fueling a new generation of rooted formulas, where terroir becomes a true territory of innovation.

ODEN - Local traceability as a new beauty narrative
Founded by an agronomy engineer and her daughter, ODEN develops oils and skincare exclusively from plants cultivated and processed in France, in direct partnership with local producers. The brand highlights French agricultural sectors, seasonal harvesting and endemic ingredients through a logic of traceability and proximity. Through this relocalization of botanical resources, ODEN contributes to redefining naturality as something deeply rooted in territory and agricultural sovereignty. 

Eclo - Cosmetics as a tool for regenerating living ecosystems
From Brittany, Eclo creates 100% natural-origin formulas using ingredients sourced from regenerative agricultural sectors, such as rye from Haute-Loire, Breton hemp and French seaweed. The brand moves beyond traditional clean beauty codes by integrating formulation, sourcing and compostable packaging into a single logic focused on ecosystem restoration and the valorization of living systems.

ON THE WILD SIDE - Wilderness as an active and sensory resource
With organic skincare formulated from wild plants hand-harvested in preserved French ecosystems, ON THE WILD SIDE places wild harvesting back at the center of the beauty narrative. Birch sap, beech buds and actives derived from uncultivated plants support an approach where spontaneous biodiversity, harvesting expertise and regenerative naturality converge. Wild plants become both cosmetic resources, botanical heritage and expressions of territory.

 

FRENCH PHARMACY - MAGISTRAL PREPARATIONS

In France, the pharmacy is an integral part of beauty culture: a “white coat” approach built on safety, prescription and trust in pharmaceutical expertise. Today, this model is gaining global traction, driven by the rise of French pharmacy hauls on TikTok. The result is a skincare philosophy centered on long-term skin health, skin barrier protection and more disciplined, almost medicinal formulas and rituals, shaped by a culture of accessible expertise.

Mimétique - Biomimicry serving the skin barrier
Inspired by regenerative medicine and microbiome science, Mimétique develops skincare focused on repairing the skin barrier and supporting the skin’s natural regeneration mechanisms. Biomimicry structures the brand’s formulations, designed to reproduce essential biological functions through life-inspired actives. Combining clinical aesthetics with accessible scientific discourse, the brand reflects the evolution of dermocosmetics toward more technical, health-oriented routines.


Cénée - Dermo-active makeup inspired by pharmacy standards
Cénée develops a skincare approach inspired by pharmaceutical standards, focused on repairing weakened skin and supporting sensitive skin types. The brand formulates products around actives recognized for both efficacy and tolerance, within a reassuring minimalist approach. Through clinical aesthetics, educational storytelling and a strong focus on the skin barrier, Cénée embodies a more disciplined and expert vision of beauty, where cosmetics borrow the codes of prescription while remaining accessible for everyday use.

Quinque - The convergence of pharmacy and active cosmetics
Founded by Mercedes Marcos, a pharmacist specialized in cosmetic formulation and skin biology, Quinque places inflammatory mechanisms at the center of its skincare philosophy. The brand favors short routines and minimalist formulas designed for sensitive and reactive skin. Through an educational approach to skin health, Quinque brings together active cosmetics, pharmaceutical expertise and a preventive vision of skincare.

 

THE NEW WAVE - THE ART OF INSOLENCE

French beauty has always cultivated a certain impertinence: freedom in gestures, a taste for playful audacity and an instinctive way of bending the rules. This new beauty wave is becoming more expressive, emotional and joyful. Makeup is no longer about transformation, but about conveying an attitude, a mood, a presence: a bold lip, an unexpected pop of color on the eyes, blush applied with fingertips. A spontaneous sophistication — free-spirited, effortless and deeply alive.

Violette_FR - Spontaneity of gesture and color as a beauty signature
Created by French makeup artist Violette Serrat, Violette_FR sees makeup as a tool for personal and emotional expression. Bold colors, finger-friendly textures and intuitive routines encourage a more spontaneous relationship to beauty gestures. Blending artistic culture, Parisian aesthetics and creative freedom, the brand celebrates a living beauty where makeup is less about correction and more about expressing an attitude or a mood. 


Les Filles en Rouje - Makeup as the expression of a free femininity
Within Jeanne Damas’ Rouje universe, makeup extends a certain idea of Parisian allure: spontaneous, sensual and slightly imperfect. Les Filles en Rouje favors easy-to-wear textures, instinctive gestures and intentionally blurred finishes that evoke an everyday beauty that feels more emotional than sophisticated. Makeup becomes an extension of personal style, shaped by a free and nonchalant femininity.


Le Rouge Français - Botanical pigments for a more expressive beauty
Using pigments derived from dye plants such as madder, woad and hibiscus, Le Rouge Français places color back at the center of the makeup experience. Sensory textures and botanical shades support a more instinctive and expressive approach to beauty gestures. Between botanical heritage, emotional color experiences and freedom of application, the brand develops a vision of makeup where allure emerges as much from the pleasure of the gesture as from self-expression.

THE COSMETICS IC TAKE

The enduring influence of French Beauty lies not only in its products, but in the cultural foundations that shape them. From terroir and pharmacy culture to creative self-expression, these deeply rooted references create distinctive beauty narratives that resonate both locally and globally.

As consumers increasingly seek authenticity, expertise, and emotional connection, cultural anchoring is becoming a powerful driver of innovation and international desirability. French Beauty demonstrates how strong cultural codes can transform local heritage into global influence.

This analysis is part of our French Beauty report. Contact us if you would like to learn more.

You can also explore French Beauty and meet the Cosmetics IC team at MakeUp in Paris, June 17–18, at Booth T1 (in front of J30), and join our sessions:

June 17 – Beauty Talk #1
June 18, 12:30 pm – Conference with Spate
June 18 – Beauty Talk #2

Register here for the show.

US X FR: Lip and Eye Product Trends

Photo Credit - Dominik Kielbasa via Unsplash

At the recent MakeUp in Paris event, Leila Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer, was joined by Spate’s Analytical Lead, Julien Lutz, to decode the latest search data coming out of the US and France. Based on analysis of over 20 billion beauty-related search signals, Spate, the agency’s Partner Agency, decipher the rising trends and consumer behaviors emerging from the two Beauty powerhouses. 

Read on to discover the major differences between US and French consumers when it comes to searches for lip and eye makeup products.

EYE MAKEUP - CREATIVITY ON THE RISE

Photo: Essence - Facebook

In the US, products with a creative arc are coming out on top; with artistic eyeliner and eyeshadow experiencing a search volume of +1.2M. In comparison, French consumers are engaging with trends that focus on making the lashes pop; searches for fake eyelashes are at 291.2K, mascara at 103.8K and eyeliner at 9.8K.  Products that define and enhance the eye and lashes dominate the French top ten, and include eyebrow tint (47.9K), eyelash glue (23.4K) and eyebrow definer (15.1K). 

However, data shows that French consumers have a growing interest in creative eye looks; eye glitter is the top growing makeup product (+57.7%), followed by liquid eyeliner (+36.2%). ‘Waterproof’ is a trending category in both the US and France, where searches for waterproof eyeliner are at 29.7%, and US consumer searches for waterproof eyeshadow are +658.9%. Also breaking through in the US are searches for eye gloss at +120.4% and eyebrow stencil at +115.9%.

Creative expression continues to dominate US tastes when it comes to eye color too; silver (+91.8%), taupe (+72.8%) and coral (+70.6%) are the top trending colors, while French consumers are more interested in the classics, with white (+20.7%), brown (+14.8%) and plum (+5.7%) making the top three.  The top trending eye makeup products coming out of the US are Urban Decay’s Naked Eyeshadow Palette with +66.9K average monthly searches, followed by GrandeLASH MD Lash Enhancing Serum (+36K) and NYX’s Micro Brow Pencil(+12.4K). In France, as socialization returns, consumers are searching for longwear and waterproof eye products; Essence Mascara (+2.1K), Maybelline Great Lash Waterproof Mascara (+488) and MAC Cosmetics Brushstroke 24-HR Liner (+301) are the top trending eye makeup products.

 

LIP MAKEUP - RED, LIP ENHANCEMENT & COLOR

Clinique - Almost Lipstick Black Honey - Source Facebook

US and French consumers are aligned in their love for lipstick, especially red lipstick. US consumer searches for red lipstick are at 77.9K, while in France it is the second most-searched-for lip product overall, with a search volume of 59.3K.  Search analysis shows French consumer interest in lip enhancing products - lip plumping gloss is the most-searched-for product at +108%, followed by lip plumper (+16.2%) and lip gloss (+0.3%). US search data highlights an interest in more creative lip play; searches for lip shimmer is at +461.9%, lipstick palette at +259% and sheer lipstick is at +183.8%.

The top lipstick colors by growth coming out of the US are plum (+306.8%), chocolate (+162.3%) and orange (+143%). The classics reign in France, with consumers increasingly searching for coral (+64.9%), maroon (+48.6%) and pink (+44.6%). Lip products with staying power are trending with US consumers; Clinique’s Pop Lip Color + Primer and Maybelline’s Super Stay Matte Ink Liquid Lipstick are at +47.k and 14.22K average monthly searches, respectively. The top trending product by search growth in the US is Clinique’s Almost Lipstick, at +245.9K average monthly searches.  The top trending lip makeup products amongst French consumers are NYX's Butter Gloss at +515, closely followed by Guerlain Lipstick at +513, and NYX’s Soft Matte Lip Cream at +319. 

CIC TAKE

  • The US still leads the way for creative and audacious expressions, but France is rapidly following suit.

  • With rising inflation, mass-market brands that demonstrate creativity and affordability will draw attention, and luxury brands will need to reinforce value-driven innovations to justify price.

  • Expect an increasing thirst for creative independence in the future, with an impact on color, application and texture.

To download the full report from Spate, just click on the link.