Top 5 Beauty PREDICTIONS for 2021 ( and Beyond)

Photo Credit -  Isco

Photo Credit - Isco

2020 has been the year of acceleration of significant trends and a year that has reshaped the market forever, as consumers have disrupted their behavior in the way they shop, their needs, and their beauty aspirations. As 2021 has started, hopes are emerging, and brands need to prepare for the new normal. 

Consumers have lived through a year of new experimentations, more in-depth knowledge through digitalization, and have had the time to think about what they truly value in their lives (and their Beauty). 

 2021 will be essential to reinvent, find new dimensions of excellence and luxury, redefine values, meet new requirements, and participate in resilience.

This article highlights 5 of our predictions in 2021 and beyond, based on key highlights from 2020 and the evolutions we expect for the future.

An extract of a white paper available at the agency. 

1.      From Transparency to Radical Traceability

As trust is the new currency, safety and wellness become key; brands will need to explore radical traceability solutions. 

Transparency is a prerequisite of conscious consumption, and 2020 has reinforced the need to make a safe choice for anything applied on skin. Moreover, reaching global wellbeing implies ethical decisions, especially in luxury.  IPSOS Luxury survey shows that 90% of the affluent Chinese expect brands to have an ethical/ecological commitment, and 88% expect them to respect animal wellbeing. More than words, consumers call for facts. 

According to the UEBT 2020 survey, consumers expect more information on packaging: 82% want to know the origin of ingredients, and 78% wish to know the social impact of sourcing local ingredients. In 2020, the discussion on ethical sourcing accelerated.  In the USA, Beautycounter has made a massive communication on responsible sourcing, pointing out the “clean” origing of their Mica and the urgence to fight against hidden forced labor. 

British E-Retailer, Cult, has cooperated with the blockchain technology platform Provenance to collect information about the source, ingredients, craftsmanship, and requirements of its products, and then use evidence to prove the authenticity of this information

2.      From "Skinification" to augmented "Healthification."

"Skinification" was the major trend in 2020, as consumers shifted from makeup to the "pandemic-proof" skincare market. But what 2020 has taught us is the importance of prevention for our health. According to Innova's Consumer Survey 2020, "six out of ten global consumers are increasingly looking for F&B products that support their immune health. One in three says that concerns about immune health increased in 2020 over 2019". 

A healthy complexion has always been the quintessence of Beauty, but consumers are actively looking at ingredients that bring more than a quick fix or beautiful makeup. According to WWD, Vitamins, supplements, and even homeopathic remedies experienced unprecedented levels of demand during the April coronavirus pandemic in the US. We have seen skincare transitioning to self-care, as consumers were spending more time at home, dealing with anxiety and their mental health. Interest in wellness has increased, and new brands are taking the stand to answer this new need. Psychotherapy brand Disciple offers a holistic approach to stress-relief and answers to anxiety-related skin issues such as acne.

The Nue Co. - Forest Lung

The Nue Co. - Forest Lung

The British wellness DTC brand Nue Co. launched Forest Lungs, a fragrance "supplement" intended to "deliver the healing effects of nature to the body [and] support the reduction of everyday stress."   

 

3.      From Skintellectualization to "Science Inside"

The "skintellectualization" of Beauty has emerged as a significant trend in 2020, propelled by Gen Z. 

Empowered by digital tools, these consumers are armed with in-depth Beauty knowledge and are now "ingredient wizards", even more attentive to INCI. Online, they are building a digital Beauty library, thanks to all the knowledge passed on forums, Reddit, Youtube, and social media.

@Skincare By Hyram

@Skincare By Hyram

Simultaneously, a new generation of influencers such as skincare guru @Hyram in the US or @Secret de Peau in France, deciphers every product. Ready to make the next leap, ingredient-focused brand Inkey List drives the trend with a pedagogical approach to imperfections, specific protocols, and a radical education of consumers.

While recent years' fascination for mystical wellness was key, led by gurus such as Gwyneth Paltrow, we now see a renewed quest for scientific legitimacy. 2020 was the year of the emergence of scientific expert brands such as Dr. Barbara Sturm. Her website relaunch in September 2020 focused on more educational features, propelling the views to  + 400%, according to Glossy.Co, Dr. Barbara Sturm's success embodies this new quest for science reinforcement – calling for experts, doctors, PHD with solid backgrounds and claims backed with scientific facts. 

4.      From Sustainability to Eco Celebration

 The recent sanitary crisis led to an acceleration of the expectation of consumers for purpose-driven and sustainable solutions. Mc Kinsey mentions "sustainability first”, while 57% of consumers in Germany and the UK declared, "they had made significant changes to their lifestyles to lessen their environmental impact."

2020 was a significant year in sustainability stand up from brands in all markets. From zero-waste dining restaurants, zero-waste design, second-hand fashion or trashion (fashion with trash), innovation with eco-friendly solutions have accelerated, pushing brands to rethink packaging, product-delivery system, and delivery. New refills solutions (ex Unilever, Clarins Eco-Bar, Shiseido) have propelled the concept of zero waste beyond Indie. In the USA, Clean retailer Credo has sped up their Clean 2.O philosophy prioritizing sustainability by announcing that in 2023 they will banish single-use packaging, from single-use masks to testing wands in store.  Same for Selfridges in the UK, progressing in reducing its "plastic footprint" banning wipes to plastic-based glitter. All-over bold moves in the context of a sanitary crisis.

5.      From Lockdown Beauty to Unleashing Freedom 

 2020 lockdown transformed homes into safe life-spaces and wellness sanctuaries. 

This "home-hubbing" behavior created new needs, like self-care, intimate skincare, or the quest for minimalism. Lockdown was also an opportunity to self-experiment. Makeup became a powerful tool to fight boredom and fuel personal creativity. From maximalist nudes to extreme color payoffs, "lockdown looks", we witnessed the rise of highly creative looks shared on social media. Some 46% of women and 41% of men said they've spent more time on social media during the pandemic (source: Business.com). Instagram story, Tik Tok, and Twitch thus became the perfect platforms to boost self-expression, fight boredom, and seek inspiration. These platforms privilege movement, fun, freedom, far away from the lavish looks of Instagram and the hybridization of the virtual and real world.

Travis Scott x Byredo : Space Rage Perfume

Travis Scott x Byredo : Space Rage Perfume

Shining example: the collaboration Travis Scott x Byredo gave birth to the Space Rage perfume, which encapsulates the essence of space to fly from home. The virtual gathering also increased to connect meaningfully, express creativity, and feel alive. Beauty brands surfed the trend: Morphe collaborated with the d'Amelio sisters on TikTok, and ELF created ASMR-like videos for their new Mint Collection. New into cosmetics market, we also explore the impact of Twitch in Makeup.


The Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation, Consulting and Forecasting Agency, specialist of the Beauty world, just launched its latest Inspiration Makeup USA trend book. Interested? Feel free to contact us !

PARIS BEAUTY TOUR: 3 INDIE RETAIL SPOTS

Photo credits: Seasonly / Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Photo credits: Seasonly / Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

While recent events have accelerated the digitalization of our lives, retail is still alive as consumers have not totally shifted to e-commerce. According to a recent survey Yougov for the French retail magazine LSA, close to 60 % of French consumers have modified their purchase habits since the quarantine. They are also privileging more local, neighborhood stores.

In Paris, new spaces are flourishing as the wave of Indie French Touch keeps blowing on the market. Discover three must-see spots in “la Capitale” that our team have enjoyed visiting:

SEASONLY - CLEAN AND CUSTOMIZATION

Photo credits: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Photo credits: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Ingredients, yes, but seasonal! A very “French Potager” approach for the latest indie brand Seasonly, born in 2018, with a range of “clean, healthy, seasonal” cosmetics. The brand is one of the more emblematic brands of “Indie French Touch”, with an uncompromising philosophy of “short formulas, with a blacklisted no-list of ingredients, all actives and sourced, in recycled and recyclable packaging.”

At the Galeries Lafayette d'Hausmann, this is the very first corner for the brand. Services include 15 to 60 minutes skincare sessions inspired by face gym in “Seasonly Skin Studio in bubble-cabins” with head massages, Gua Sha, and “Extras” for neck and décolleté. The corner also includes star products like the Huile de Nuit, a botanical concentrate of 14 super-ingredients, or the Anti-Grisaille Sérum.

❤️: Special mention to a very indie, pastel, cocooning approach.

Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann, 2nd floor - 40, Boulevard Haussmann, 75008 Paris

Rendez-vous sur place ou par téléphone au 01 42 93 20 28

https://seasonly.fr/

Horace - Frenchy Male Care

Photo credits: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Photo credits: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

This is the first permanent store for the male skincare brand at the heart of the Marais, after promising beginnings in 2015. Pre and post-shaving care, high-end toothpaste, natural deodorants, male skincare … Horace is one of the pioneer French XY brands on the market, with 95% sourced from “natural ingredients”. In-store, service is truly made-to-measure for each skin type.

❤️: a sober yet high-end masculine decor, with the opportunity to try the brand’s very first perfume.

Horace 

68, rue Vieille du Temple, 75003 Paris

 L:A BRUKET - HYGGHE IN PARIS

Photo credits: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Photo credits: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

After a first store in Saint Sulpice, the Swedish skincare brand is opening this second 50 square-meters location in the Marais. According to its name ( « Lilla Bruket » means “Little Workshop"), the store adopts a Scandinavian warm look, yet extremely minimalistic, to better reflect the sustainable philosophy of the brand: non-gendered, 100% organic and Swedish skincare.

❤️ : a millennial yet minimalistic architecture to best express sustainability, naturality, and no-waste.

L:A BRUKET

77 rue Vieille-du-Temple, 75003 Paris

www.labruket.com

Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation organizes Beauty Tours à Paris, and created a special Indie French Touch report book. Contact the agency for more information.
Follow the agency on Twitter ou Instagram: @cosmeticseeds

Photo credits: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

(Re)Awakening : The Future of Beauty and an Era of New Semantics in the US

Photo credits: Damiano Baschiera / Unsplash

Photo credits: Damiano Baschiera / Unsplash

(Re)Awakening“ is the title of the latest trend report from Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation, an invitation to look to the future of American Beauty. While the market has decelerated in beauty (-36% in Prestige Beauty in Q2-2020 according to NPD Group), resilience and awakening are emerging, giving birth to unprecedented changes. Moreover, inherent changes and social movements accelerate product innovation and new semantics, changing the face of the Beauty industry.

Premium Beauty News met with the Forecasting team at Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation – Leïla Rochet (Chief Inspiration Officer), Sarah Schnebert (Content Expert) & Stéphanie Muit (Beauty & Fashion Trends Forecaster) – for this prospective interview. Brands acting as “care-takers”, “Cancel Culture” era, post-inclusivity, “self-hubbing”: meet the future of Beauty.

Premium Beauty News - What are your methods for projecting the trends forecasting the future of Beauty?

Leïla Rochet - First, we position ourselves as translators of the major trends that will impact the Beauty of tomorrow, both in terms of representations and archetypes, but also behaviors. Our vision relies on a Prospective Intelligence Method based on a thorough analysis of the market (articles, studies, magazines, online media, social media, and Fashion Week), field visits, and product analysis (deciphering product innovations and storytelling). Our reports are enriched with insights from studies, on top of the forecasting chapters, to help rethink your strategies and innovations.

Sarah Schnebert - Our inspirations arise from various sources, from lyrics to the latest indie albums, to captions from Instagram accounts. That’s what we love about semantics: by nature, words are an ever-changing force of society. Every generation reinvents words every day, a phenomenon that has accelerated in our digitalized life. All the modern wording we highlight or we reinvent in our reports are inspired by these insights.

Stéphanie Muit - From disruptive looks to innovative fabrics, we are deeply inspired by Fashion and what’s happening on social media, especially in makeup. In 2020, “self platform” like TikTok, Depop or Animal Crossing has revolutionized fashion consumption and influence. The same goes for the new “see now, buy now” trend, the gathering of both genders on the runways as well as the “phygital“ Fashion Weeks. All these trends have challenged traditional norms, rhythm, and seasonality of the Fashion industry that will impact beauty.

Premium Beauty News - What do you mean by “(Re)Awakening”?

Leïla Rochet - When future reblossoms, the world will awake with new opportunities. We invite brands to stay “awake” and “aware” of everything that surrounds us and prepare for the new future. Today’s unrivaled situation reshaped collective consciousness, forced consumers to reconsider their priorities, and shuffled their relation to beauty. Consumers are well informed and very aware of modern issues and will be increasingly demanding. They will look for brands with values and act with compassion during these difficult times. In our trend, Health (Re)Boot, we explore health as a new marker of Luxury and Beauty. Looking “healthy” was already key – and more important than looking young, in a 2018 survey by Philips, and this will accelerate with new territories of healthiness. We’ve moved from well-being to being truly well. The COVID-19 reminded us how vulnerable we are, how fundamental our skin is, as an emotional, intimate layer, but also as protective armor.

Sarah Schnebert - For (Re)Awakening, the word “awake” is a direct reference to the post-woke world. Since the 2010’s, the concept of “wokeness” has been so fundamental in the US, liberating but also culturally reshaping, in terms of feminism, inclusivity, LGBTQUA+ justice etc. It is truly a paradigm shift. American society is now adamant, uncompromising, especially when it comes to semantics faux-pas. We’ve moved on from ”influence” to “relevance”, and this is game-changing in terms of communication.

Stéphanie Muit - The idea of (Re)Awakening is about rethinking values, priorities, how to be in sync with our identity, with the world. To be sustainable, brands need to meet these new demands and new consumer needs. In the era of Cancel Culture, they will be constantly challenged to question themselves, to better themselves.

Premium Beauty News - What does this mean for brands tomorrow ?

Leïla Rochet - As consumers are incredibly demanding, brands need to be ready to be called out, to face backlashes whenever they speak out. There have been a few examples unfortunately. In the (Re)Awakening era, they are being judged on their empathy and on their civic-minded attitude. We analyzed how US brands behaved during lockdown, from their call for solidarity to the way they acted. Some have embraced the role of “care-takers”. The future of Beauty will lie in the hands of creative drivers. For consumers, aspirational “superficial” perfection is out, they wish to portray the best version of their individuality, staying truthful and authentic, while cultivating and celebrating differences. This is even more significant in makeup, which has always been a tool for freedom and creativity.On Instagram and TikTok, makeup was used as a hedonistic force, fueling new aesthetics, with a surrealistic touch. By supporting this new freedom wave, and allowing consumers to express themselves, Beauty brands will generate intimacy and engagement.

(Re) Awakening, Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation latest Makeup and Skincare reports. Since 2007, Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation is a Beauty Forecasting and Consulting office specialized in Beauty Innovation. Twice a year, the agency releases USA and Korea Beauty reports, as well as various trend-report, and targeted reports on demand. The agency is also specialized in Beauty Strategy, Concept creation or ideation, and storytelling for BtoB or B to C companies.

Follow the agency: Instagram / LinkedIn
Web:
www.inspiration-creation.com
Mail:
contact@inspiration-creation.com

4 INSIGHTS ON HOW THE CRISIS FUELED BEAUTY INNOVATIONS IN KOREA

Source: Cho Gi Seok 조기석 / @chogiseok

Source: Cho Gi Seok 조기석 / @chogiseok

Hit by the pandemic at an early stage, it did not take long for South Korea to react with creative resilience. With its legendary spirit of innovation, the Beauty champion emerged stronger, led by savvy new generations and dedicated brands…

The latest What’s Up South Korea report launched by the Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency dives into the transformations of the K-market and its amazing source of inspiration for Beauty. Here is an extract of the 4 insights changing the game. (Contact us to get the full report!)

INSIGHT #1: “BEYOND K-BEAUTY: I WANT K-DEFENSE”

Although being one of the first countries hit by COVID-19, South Korea effectively contained the virus in just one month. Past health crises (SARS in 2002, H1N1 in 2009, and MERS in 2015, etc.) have prepared the country, and the world now considers South Korea to be a shining example of how to handle an outbreak. In Korean, media now proudly use the word “K-defense” to refer to their containment strategy.

In Beauty, this has also led to the rise of a new generation of skincare dedicated to a more modern twist of skin defense, including the rise of claims on building a natural skin barrier for a maximal protection.

INSIGHT #2: “HYGIENE BURST AND PURE SKIN IS MY NEW QUEST”

Product-wise, several brands offered tools to keep on with daily life while staying protected. Too Cool For School and Chicor boosted their hand sanitizer production to meet the growing demand. The brand BoHo offers new alternatives to purifying air with the Puristic Sterilizing Disinfectant - two ampoules broken at the last minute to clean the air. Caolion even created the V-Shield Sterilization Phone Patch, a phone protection that reduces floating bacteria in the air.

In skincare, the cleansing category also saw an upsurge, as well a peeling products, as the quest for pure skin became at the center of preoccupations.

INSIGHT #3: “HOW DO I DEAL WITH MASKING AND UNDERMASKING?”

Even though Koreans are used to protecting themselves with masks, the everyday usage is changing the rules of beauty and creating new needs. Fashion brand, Greedilous even launched a mask with unique designs and prints, inspired by their Spring Summer collection, priced at 59,000 won ($48), with all proceeds from the sales donated to charity. In April, the Korea Herald titled “masks have become Fashion statements“.

Moreover, skin now presents “undermask” issues (redness, breakouts, dryness, etc.) In South Korea, anti-pollution and acne product sales increased by 42% from February 1st to March 4th, compared to the same period last year (source: Naver).

Primera Repair Bean Cica Essence is infused with soybean and the famous tiger grass to improve damaged skin and enhance the skin’s ability to adapt. In makeup, along with the long lasting or waterproff claims, come the “ask-proof” claims and demonstrations. In makeup, Laneige created a video on Instagram showing how their new Neo Cushion Matte doesn’t leave any marks on your masks!

INSIGHT #4: “MY ROUTINE IS DIGITALIZED, HENCE MY SHOPPING BEHAVIOR”

With the COVID outbreak, South Koreans have spent more time on social media and apps, trying to connect with others. As their practices have changed, they seek to more meaningful content and a way to connect with those who share their values.

KPop group BTS performed live on YouTube, and various idols Livestreamed daily on Vlive. Beauty influencers joined, sharing their new tips. To fight social distancing blues, online challenges took platforms like Instagram and TikTok, like the most popular #Dalgonacoffe.

South Korea continues to flourish in retail opening with a focus on entertaining yet touchless experiences. The Lotte Duty Free Shop opened its first “Smart Store”, allowing consumers to scan QR codes for information, reviews or check-out using a mobile shopping cart.

More then ever, South Korea brands are champions of innovation and creativity. They actively disrupt the beauty market and are true sources of inspiration.

pg1- Tony Moly x Grazia Korea.png
 

Hungry for more K-trend? These insights are excerpt from our latest What’s Up Seoul report, a deep dive into 8 prospective trends. Contact us for a quotation.

TREND ALERT! TIKTOK CHALLENGE "FOX EYES" IS THE NEW BROW LIFT

Source: Youtube / courtesy of Jamie Paige

Source: Youtube / courtesy of Jamie Paige

Created in September 2016, rising social media star TikTok has hacked the Beauty game.

This new social network is becoming a huge beauty playground, a key social media platform for aesthetic inspiration and creative makeup experimentation. During the COVID crisis, TikTok was the house of rising beauty trends, especially in makeup.

Cosmetics Inspiration has released a white paper focusing on TikTok, including a recap of the most exciting beauty trends. One of the rising looks deciphered is the new #FoxEye (68 million views) and #FowEyeChallenge (18 million views). An instant Brow Lift effect obtained by shaving brows or using concealer tricks, and a floating eyebrow effect.

FELINE LOOKS, AND A WIDER CANVAS FOR MAKEUP

It started within the influence of Bella Hadid, Emily Ratajkowski, and Kendall Jenner, who most likely all recently underwent Botox brow lifts. The procedure, minimally invasive, has been one of the most popular demands of 2020.

The goal: an instant hack, with maximal effect. The subtle yet increasingly popular procedure creates more defined brow, and a more awake-looking eye area with just a few strategically placed taps of the syringe. The result: a sexier, “foxy” “feline” look. The arches of the brows are floating higher, and eyelids are more visible, therefore creating a larger canvas for eye makeup. The procedure also rejuvenates the forehead and eye areas.

ON TIKTOK: THE TREND RAPIDLY RAISING EYEBROWS

In a previous article, we deciphered the new importance of TikTok for young generations, and especially its huge impact on the Beauty market. With 40% of its users between 16 and 25 years old, TikTok is one of the most addictive social media platforms as 90% of those users go on the app more than once daily (Source: Forbes).

Because Beautistas are always one step ahead when it comes to makeup, it did not take long for the brow lift procedure to be hacked into a makeup routine.

With a huge shock factor (also why most videos went viral), TikTok users are shaving off the outside half of their eyebrows, before using a brow crayon to create a new straighter brow shape from their arches up toward their temples.

Some did even manage to skip the shaving part, like Korean TikTok-ker Daniel Ly (@ogabg), who only used concealer to get the look. The concealer hack, already been viewed over 4.3 million times, consists in an intricate routine of light concealer in five areas: under the outer corner of the eye up through the temple, in the inner corner of the eye, down the side of the nose, around the corner of the nose and under the lower lip line.

2020 AND BEYOND: THE NEW MINIMAL/MAXIMAL

Beauty is opening up to a new imaginative playground mixing nude-like skin (poreless) and maximizing features (with makeup, falsies, or makeup tricks). The fox eye trend embodies this new quest for a minimalistic yet high impact look.

Minimal/Maximal is one of the latest trend deciphered in our USA trend-report, “Reawakening”.

For more information on the report and on our TikTok White Paper, feel free to contact us !

ECO-TRANSMISSION - WHEN SUSTAINABILITY MEETS CULTURAL PRIDE IN South Korea

SS20 Re:code

SS20 Re:code

Since the renewal of the country in the ’60s, South Korean is known for its fast development and constant technologic innovation. In the context of a hyper-digitalization and a strong pressure for efficiency, consumers seek more authenticity and respect in their daily life.

They are increasing looking to move at a slower pace and are looking to create harmony between culture and the planet. New cultural reappropriation is on the rise, especially amongst younger consumers and in the design and fashion arena. 

CULTURAL GATHERING AROUND AUTHENTIC SPACES

In design, art, retail, and architecture, a strong retro trend (Newtro) emerges, an echo to the consumer quest for more authenticity, slowness, and realness. Among the younger generation rises a sense of transmission with the past to anchor a sense of belonging to the Korean culture. We witness the rise of socials salons where people meet to discuss culture and a rise of regenerating spaces rather than the creation of new buildings. 

amore Songsu - Photo Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation/@cosmeticseeds

amore Songsu - Photo Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation/@cosmeticseeds

In October, Amore Pacific opened a new space, Amore Seongsu, dedicated to the discovery of their products, products can only be bought online. Presented as a "Healing Space", this new gallery sits in a former car repair shop in the up-and-coming area of Seongsu-dong. 

SLOW CONSUMPTION AND ZERO WASTE

Seoul, like all megacities in the world, is housing new zero waste stores to answer consumer’s increasing demand for more sustainable solutions. In the Seongsu area, called the Brooklyn of Seoul, healthy and sustainable stores pop up all around the neighborhood. Artists are opening ateliers, concept stores, and cafes that reflect a need for slow consumption. 

Source: Picer Korea

Source: Picer Korea

Alongside with this more cautious consumption is the rise of zero-waste initiatives. In 2018, a zero-waste global organization created "Wasteupso" in Seoul, a web store promoting a better way to use our daily product. It aims to become a brick and mortar sustainable place. Another, Picker Korea, opened in Seongsu a zero-waste shop and cafe also selling zero water shampoos like Plein de Vie. 

SUSTAINABLE LEADING 

Today, waste is one of the biggest problems for fashion and beauty. From creation to packaging, all the supply chain is coming up with solutions to change their impact on the world. To change the mentality, new initiatives take place in Korea, particularly in Seoul. 

Back in 2017, Seoul Upcycling Plaza was installed in Seongdong-guto to raise awareness on upcycling solutions, with conferences providing tangible ideas for the day-to-day behavior. For its second anniversary, the Seoul Upcycling Festival included various lectures, forums, and visitor-friendly programs. 

Recode Nodeul island space.jpg

RE:code, the pioneer of sustainable fashion in Korea, took it a step further. For the SS20 fashion show, the brand welcomes guests to the showroom to discuss its approach to upcycling. As for the past collection, Kolon Industries (owner of Re:code), creates brand new designs with waste from unsold apparel. "Everything is crafted into something new", claims the brand. Additionally, RE:code employs North Korean asylum seekers, adding to their environment benefit a holistic approach to production.  

ECO-TRANSMISSION is a trend from Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation’s latest What's Up Korea trend reports, Makeup & Skincare. If you wish to order the upcoming report, contact the agency for more information.

TikTok - The Rising Star Of Social Beauty

Capture d’écran 2020-05-22 à 17.15.38.png

What is happening on social media tells a lot about our society and the way people communicate. Just as society and its beauty standards constantly evolve, so too do the trends in social media continue to change. During the COVID crisis, social media engagement increased by 61%, and messaging across Facebook, Instagram and WhatsApp expanded by 40%+ among people ages 35 years and under (source: study on 25,000 consumers across 30 markets by Kantar).

The latest phenomenon: the video app TikTok, from the Chinese company Bytedance. With 40% of its users between 16 and 25 years old, it is also one of the most addictive social media plateforms as 90% of those users go on the app more than once daily (Source: Forbes).

Created in September 2016, this platform has now expanded its usage beyond Gen Z and reached 2 billion downloads, making it the most downloaded app in March 20202.

 
Source: Sensortower.com

Source: Sensortower.com

 

Why is TikTok Hot?
TikTok is an interactive world of videos, with strong creative content that lets users connect with friends and admirers through likes, comments and hashtags. Compared to other social media, TikTok is about real-life authenticity, which proposes exhilarating challenges. It is crossing age and social boundaries as a way to express one’s true individuality. While much of the content uploaded to Instagram and YouTube is polished to perfection, TikTok — and its users — embrace silliness and fun with high expectation for serious value of some kind.

TikTok - Escape, Bonding and More

During the health crisis, TikTok provided an entertaining escape in times of anxiety as a way to connect with others in a hedonistic way. Just like Zoom, this is one of the platforms that have seen an acceleration in times when people missed social interaction the most. While a lot of individuals use the platforms for entertainment, the channel also provides a source for information and a way to take a voice in these difficult times. The World Health Organization (WHO) debuted on TikTok in February with a video on "How to Protect Yourself from the Coronavirus". The organization captures 2,2 million followers and 7,5 million likes.

 
 

TikTok - The New Influencer Playground.

TikTok is a new space for beauty conversation, with a high level of engagement. According to Talking Influencer, on TikTok, anyone can be an influencer. “Their algorithm gives every content creator the potential to go viral, whether they have 50 followers or 500,000 followers". This makes it one of the most accessible platforms for influencer marketing. The numbers skyrocketed,  like Abby Roberts (@abburartistery) with 327 million likes and 8,4 million followers. Power influencers now add this social media channel to their communication portfolio (like @KylieJenner with 79 million likes and 11 million followers.

TikTok - The Challenge Signature

The lockdown was also a driver for beauty conversation on social media and more importantly on TikTok. Through the challenges, people have created exciting experiments of beauty transformation. The latest craze: #tinyfacechallenge which surpassed 7 million views. In a period when people need to wear mask, people transform their features and create noses and lips on the upper part of their faces. It is also an interesting way to make fun of the new normal of wearing masks and to escape from the pressure of these difficult times.

 
tiktok challenge.jpeg
 

TikTok - The New Tone of Beauty and Wellness Brands

Beauty brands have initiated their presence in this new arena, but still need to tailor messaging, their tone, specific to this social network. Brands such as ELF and Too Faced have actively created challenges.

Interesting initiatives have built around #ASMR, Autonomous Sensory Meridian Response, or ASMR, defined as content that evokes “light and pleasurable waves of relaxation in the head, neck, spine and throughout the rest of the body.” Brands including Huda Beauty, Sephora, Milk Makeup, ColourPop, Tarte Cosmetics, and Glow Recipe have posted TikTok videos tagged as #ASMR since March. In total, 22.7 billion views around this hashtag.

 
 
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In a nutshell, the landscape of beauty continues to evolve and some of the new social interactions initiated during lockdown, are certainly here to stay. This rising star in the social media arena reflects the changes taking place in beauty and the amazing influence of GenZ in the future of beauty.

At Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation, we source our inspiration from the various platforms that are reshaping beauty. To get more insights, ask us for our TikTok White paper.

Meet the Maker - Emmanuel Rey - The Yoga Sensei Behind Yuni Skincare

Emmanuel Rey - Co-Founder of Yuni Skincare

Emmanuel Rey - Co-Founder of Yuni Skincare

With the rise of Wellness, the face of beauty is morphing, and some indie brands have realized the importance of adapting the products to a change in consumer habits and the rise of more conscious consumption. Since the  launch of the brand back in 2015, we spotted Yuni Skincare a line of healthy, natural skincare and body products that save time, restore health, and relieve stress. Created by a couple of natural beauty pioneers and yoga teachers, Emmanuel Rey and Suzanne Dawson, the brand was one of the first offering a holistic vision of beauty, back when athleisure was booming in fashion, as well as indie brands in beauty. Our first encounter with the brand was in a Yoga space and since then, the brand has rolled out in major retailers, from clean retailers (Credo, The Detox Market) to retailers featuring clean retail brands, such as Target or Ulta.  In February, Leila Rochet, founder of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation had the pleasure to meet Emmanuel Rey, Co-founder of Yuni Skincare. A discussion that turned into an e-conversation during the confinement, a time of difficulty for all entrepreneurs. But also, a time of generosity as the company decided to send Yuni products to Four hospitals in New-York, collaborating to the effort and bringing comfort to those helping others.  

Namasté 🙏🏻Emmanuel for taking some of your precious time to answer our questions and for sharing your experience.

Leila: Yuni is quite a unique brand inspired by Yoga practices and a pioneer in clean beauty. What was your inspiration and how did you come up with this unique project?

Emmanuel: My partner Suzanne and I have worked in cosmetics for over 25 years, including 10 years at Aveda (Estee Lauder Companies) where she was Senior Vice President of Marketing and I was General Manager of North America. (ndlr: Aveda was one of the first companies responsible and using plant-based ingredients for beauty in the USA). When we left the corporate world in 2012, we decided to take a trip around the world and ended up becoming Ashtanga Yoga teachers in Greece. Beyond the unique experience of this moment, we realized the rise of athleisure brands in fashion, clothing adapted to active lifestyle such as Lululemon, Sweaty Betty, Lorna Jane, or Athleta.  But there was nothing in beauty. Our fellow students told us that they could not find brands that match their values and that understand their lifestyle. We ran in-depth studies and realized that active people like us were looking for natural and respectful solutions to save time, restore health and relieve stress. We started to think of solutions for these needs and this is how we created YUNI Beauty.

active people like us were looking for natural and respectful solutions to save time, restore health and relieve stress.
— Emmanuel Rey

L: A lot of Indie Beauty brands have immerged on the West Coast, especially in recent years. As a French native, living in the USA, why is California the new “gold mine” of beauty?

E: In the case of beauty and wellness, California has a lot of advantages. First of all, Californians are by nature interested in everything related to body and mind. It is a country in itself (38 million inhabitants) with a great diversity and a strong purchasing power. In addition, it is definitely a “trend-setter” for North America and sometimes for the world, especially in terms of consumption. Finally, it is a breeding ground for micro-enterprises and investors. It is also a region with a very pleasant quality of life and beautiful nature.

L: Mindfulness is becoming a major wave, all around the world. Anxiety has been growing as a key issue for urban consumers and with the recent covid crisis, brands that answer the need for recovery, mindfulness, will certainly receive positive consumer response. What are the most innovative products in your lines? How do you get your inspiration from?

 
YUNI_Sleepy Beauty_0256_rd1.jpg
 

E: We draw our inspiration from our own needs of tomorrow and from what we think are the questions without real answers. For us, lack of idea is never the problem. For YUNI, the concept of “Mindfulness' applies not only to create products which address the body and the mind, but also in the way we conceive them (natural ingredients, sustainable development), manufacture them ( factories with solar or wind energy, responsible packaging) and distribute them (from prestige to masstige, putting well-being within everyone's reach). For us "mindfulness" is a way of being fully aware of our actions. We strive to bring systematic innovation to all our products (what would be the reason otherwise?). For example, we see a real need for better quality sleep. In the United States, people sleep an average of 6 to 7 hours, often poorly, and often wake up. This is the reason we created several sleep products based on aromatherapy (Pillow Spray), the addition of recognized ingredients (Ashwaganda root, Melatonin…) in body products (Bedtime body essence) or the blend of plant-based ingredients (Passionflower, Gaba, L-tryptophan…) in an oral spray (Slumber oral spray) to use just before going to bed.

For us “mindfulness” is a way of being fully aware of our actions.
— Emmanuel Rey

L: When we met in LA, you mentioned how your day to day work and organization being flexible, working mostly from home. Far away from the traditional “office” and hierarchical companies of the past. Today, with the Covid Crisis, a lot of people are forced to work from their homes. Do you believe this is the model for the future?

E: In our case, it was due to severall factors: management of fixed costs during the launch phase, distances and chronic traffic jams in Los Angeles, access to talent. The time spent driving a car in Los Angeles is very unproductive and a source of stress. Many people are declared as self-employed, so we  have access to experienced people on an ad hoc or part-time basis. This type of staff does not require close management or direct training. We have now powerful communication tools available that allow this kind of approach. It takes a bit of practice, especially to establish a real human relationship, but I found this system quite ideal. I did not know that this would allow us to function without a hitch during this period of confinement.

L: We all hope that the post-confinement phase will happen soon but today, this is the new normality for a lot of people in the world. What would be the top  products from YUNI you would recommend and why?

E: In this very particular period, it seems to me that several YUNI products are relevant: Shower sheets or Flash Bath No Rinse for cleanliness, Count to Zen for restoring moisture loss due to frequent and was, My OM world to help relax, refresh and reset, Pocket Savasana for staying calm and meditate, Sleepy Beauty a Bedtime body essence to sleep well.

I would add the Sleepy Beauty Bakuchiol + biotic serum that we just launched. This serum brings real well-being to the skin and in these tough times, it is something that we all really need it.

 
yuni--pillow-spray-hero.jpg
 

To dive into YUNI’s world of beauty, have a look at their Instagram and visit www.Yunibeauty.com

Want more of the scoop on the clean beauty scene? Take a look at Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation’s special dossier on clean beauty within its latest USA makeup inspiration report and contact the agency for more information.

THE NEW FACE OF GREEN BEAUTY IN BRAZIL

Simple Organic - courtesy of the brand

Simple Organic - courtesy of the brand

The consumption of natural, vegan and sustainable cosmetics continues to grow around the world, and same goes for Brazil, one of the biggest beauty market out there, as well as one of the richest country in Biodiversity. Despite the country's current economic recession, the beauty market grew about 10% in 2019, according to the company Sebrae, with numbers that surpass US$ 30 billion dollars. Aware of the global environmental crisis, and knowing that the devastation of Amazonian Forest has a big impact on global warming, the majority of Brazilians are and always have been more concerned of sustainable practices. Dive into the latest Brazilian trends and inspiring brands to follow.

BRAZIL: BUT FIRST, NUMBERS

According to data from the company Nielsen, 42% of Brazilian consumers changed somehow their consumption habits to reduce their impact on the environment, while 30% of interviewed pay attention to the ingredients and components of products.

Awareness among consumption is also significant: 58% do not buy products from companies that perform test on animal, anda glowing 65% do not buy from companies associated with unethical labor practices. 

According to the UEBT Barometer, 91% of Brazilians say it is important for them to contribute personally to preserving biodiversity and they expect companies to inform them on their concrete actions towards biodiversity preservation (88%). They are also increasingly interested in transparency and authenticity.

FROM CRISTAL MUNIZ TO MARTHA PEDALINO, THE FACES OF ZERO-WASTE INFLUENCE

In 2014, influencer Cristal Muniz decided to radically change her consumption habits and stop producing garbage. She created Uma Vida Sem Lixo (‘a life without trash’), a blog-diary to report her transition and spread dozens of recipes to swap and clean products and/or cosmetics. Today, what started as a diary is now a media with over 3 million visits, and Cristal has released a book and two ebooks.

And she is not the only zero-waste source of inspiration for Brazilians. It was on a trip to China that designer Martha Pedalino (@ajuntalocal) approached the culture of “Dao” - a Chinese expression for “tea ceremony” - and developed a passion for the centuries-old tradition of producing and consuming plants for medicinal use. Returning to Brazil, Martha started selling organic teas and body mists, leading to the explosion of ther own brand that expanded to cosmetics, a massively followed online presence and natural skincare workshops.

BRAZILIAN NATURAL DISRUPTION : 7 MUST FOLLOW

  • TERRAL - BRAZILNESS SENSORIALITY

courtesy of the brand

courtesy of the brand

The brand was created from the desire to use clean, natural, organic and nutritious products for the body. The scents are all made from pure essential oils, and preservatives used are pure and from nature, such as propolis, rosemary oil, tea tree oil. TERRAL offers a true sensory experience through its balms and body creams. Star product: the paste deodorant that, in addition to retain moisture, soothes inflamed skin.

Website / Instagram: @terralnatural

  • BAIMS - BIODIVERSITY HEROE

courtesy of the brand

courtesy of the brand

BAIMS is committed to a more fair and ethical world and to contribute to the maintenance of biodiversity on our planet. All products are organic, vegan, cruelty free, and the packaging, made with bamboo, is 100% recyclable. It is the first brand to use BBA ™ - BioBehenic Active, an active derivative of Pentaclethra Macroloba (Pracaxi) that has natural brigthening properties.

Highlights: Baims lipsticks, highly moisturizing yet on the “dirty nudes” side with edgy, discreet colors even for those who like dark tones.

Website / Instagram: @baimsnaturalmakeup

  • ALMANATI - RECYCLING BEAUTY

courtesy of the brand

courtesy of the brand

Also 100% natural, organic and cruelty-free. Almanati's packaging are either made of paper or produced from a derivative of sugar cane, both 100% recyclable. In addition, it contains raw materials from biodynamic agriculture, which respects the relationship between the living beings present in agricultural practice.

One of its biggest key difference: waterless formulas, substituted by aloe vera extract, such as the facial moisturizing cream, the facial cream gel, the moisturizing man facial cream and the hydrating body lotion.

Website / Instagram: @almanatibr

  • SIMPLE ORGANIC - PLANT BASED EXPERT

courtesy of the brand

courtesy of the brand

When founder Patricia Lima became a mother, she realized that she couldn’t use several products. She then founded Simple Organic, aiming to democratize natural beauty through organic and vegan products.

Must try: The Eye Balm, formulated with hyaluronic acid, sunflower oil and essential oils of lavender and chamomile.

Website / Instagram: @simpleorganic

  • BIOART - BIODEGRADABLE GENTLENESS

courtesy of the brand

courtesy of the brand

After having several allergies due to toxic cosmetics, Soraia Zonta mixed her own concerns with Nature’s treasures and created BioArt. Since 2010, the brand develop safe makeup with natural and organic assets. Another key concern of the brand: having formulations that produce waste able to return pure to nature, without polluting neither water nor soil.

Highlight: the bio-nourishing blush, formulated with a mix of different clays and tapioca as a powerful pigment. Can be used as a shadow or on the lips, if mixed with gloss.

Website / Instagram: @bioart

courtesy of the brand

courtesy of the brand

  • CARE Natural Beauty

Carrying the slogan of slow beauty - cosmetics that do not harm the environment, the company was launched in 2018, with products free of toxins, chemical components and heavy metals. In addition, they are vegan and cruelty-free. Star product: Care Natural Beauty's Multifunctional Blush, a cream-in-powder that melts when meeting skin. Enriched with natural vitamin E, grape seed oil, coconut oil and cupuaНu butter.

Website / Instagram: @carenaturalbeauty

As expert in trends, our agency has explored the worldwide expression of the Clean and Natural Beauty movement. Thanks to our Brazilian team member, Luisa, we are now exploring the new natural disruption happening in Brazil.

Contact us for more information.

RADICAL REINVENTION: DISRUPTING THE NEXT DECADE OF BEAUTY

Source: istock/@jeffbergen

Source: istock/@jeffbergen

Beauty is an ever-changing industry. Yet some changes make more of an impact than others. The more society changes, the more these changes cascade into the Beauty market.

During the last MAD conference of the Premium Beauty News in Paris, Leila Rochet, Founder of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation, offered a keynote on how radical changes will be infusing the future of the beauty industry. “At the eve of the new decade, we are entering an era of Radical Reinvention that will influence the future of our industry”, explained Leila. This article is an extract of the presentation made at the end February 2020 in Paris.

As we enter a new decade, key contemporary shifts are impacting consumer behavior. We have entered an era where savvy consumers wish to be treated as individuals, where transparency is key, and where trust is the new currency. In this context, and even more in the light of the recent sanitary events, we will be witnessing major shifts affecting our Beauty industry and its future.


1. RADICAL BALANCE

The Standard Dose NYC - Photo Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

The Standard Dose NYC - Photo Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

In the post-wellness world, balance is only the first step towards a more beautiful self.

In retail, new spaces to restore from urban anxiety invoke calm, quiet, coziness, and intimacy.

From global wellness to intimate wellness, latest developments show the need to reconnect with our most intimate self - our instincts, our emotions, our cycles, our sexual wellness. New indies brands like Dame Products are a declaration of sexual independence and health through pleasure. Cycle-oriented brands like Knours celebrates the female body in all its stages and hormones. The boom of CBD showed just how far destressing skin could go, and consumers are no longer scared when it comes to alternative ingredients.

Balance is shifting to mysticism, infused by a wave of witchy feminism and zodiac codes. It is this new era of New Age, the Gen Z especially have a mystical-driven culture. According to the Fullscreen Report, over a quarter of millennials agree that “horoscopes and astrology influence my purchasing decisions”.

2. RADICAL ENHANCEMENT

The Clean Market NYC - Photo: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation.

The Clean Market NYC - Photo: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation.

Tech and wellness are merging, creating human-centered tech, dedicated to skin perfection like a work of art. How is this new? Even more natural consumers are switching to this trend, which we mentioned in our previous article, Skin-icone Valley.

Injections bars and IV-on-the-go centers look like a mindful Glossier. They attract consumers who look for radical solutions or “tweakments”, that are perceived as taboo-free for the younger generations. The nomads turn to the hyaluropen. Less invasive touch ups are booming, and Beauty nurses are taking Instagram by storm (like @facebypinkie) and 3D printing technology inspired by advanced medical treatment. are offered in Spa (eg. Biologique Recherche).

3. RADICAL FREEDOM

Source: @jstyle_evellet.

Source: @jstyle_evellet.

We have shifted from the era of standard beauty, where brands were imposing beauty codes, to an era of self-acceptance of one’s singular beauty, where brands need to service consumers as individuals. Inclusivity is now longer a trend. It is a standard.

Consumers want brands to recognize diversity and help them celebrate every inch of their flaws or imperfection (face, body, skin). They increasingly look for brands that they can connect with, seeking brands driven by “human values”, while they themselves act like brands. Contemporary consumers see freedom as essential - freedom to experience (rather than possess), freedom to consume as they wish (and not just in traditional spaces), freedom of reflecting one’s true self (or at least the self you chose to portray thanks to the filters!).

Beauty becomes a symbol of change, everywhere in the world. From the plus size brand Jstyle Evelett in Korea (see our article here of female empowerment) to Naomi Watanabe for Shu Uemura. With the strong claim “a lipstick that makes the difference”, indie brand the Lipstick Lobby embodies the trend, with activist lipsticks that share profits with various American non-profits. Another recent example is the activist brand Lipslut that will be donating 100% of its profits to nonprofits such as the CDC Foundation (helping those impacted by the coronavirus).

Brands need to recognize they are not ruling what the beauty standards are anymore. Instead, they need to promote freedom of what consumers want.

4. RADICAL REGENERATION

The Detox Market, NYC- Photo: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

The Detox Market, NYC- Photo: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

According to the study of JWT, 90% of consumers agree that companies/brands have a responsibility to take care of the planet and its people. So consumers buy according to their convictions, they also expect brands to be purpose-driven.

We have entered a post-green era: the Greta effect, the fires in Australia, and other sanitary crisis are changing the game. As sustainability becomes the new normal, Beauty brands will need to meet consumers request for performance as well as a better tomorrow for all. The sustainable factor should not be hidden. It needs to be highlighted to boost desire. New Indie brands, such as Amalthea in France, offer upscale refillable solutions, as a natural service consistent with their values and missions statements.

The next step will ne longer be waste free, carbon neutrality, or recyclable beauty. It will be about making the necessary changes to enrich the world (or at least take action for the embetterment of tomorrow). The Detox Market launched a new initiative called the Earth CPR, taking action to become more sustainable as a business. Their objective is to become carbon negative by planting 500,000 trees this year and 2.5 million by 2025. “One thing we’ve been great at as a company is to make people aware of toxicity in personal care. Our next mission is to encourage people to switch to sustainable products. It’s clean beauty times 10,” says Romain Gaillard, founder of the Detox Market (Source: Beauty Independent).


Radical Reinvention is also the title of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation’s latest USA trend reports, Makeup & Skincare. If you wish to know more on each of these trends, contact the agency for more information.

SKIN-ICONE VALLEY: WHEN SKIN MEETS TECH

Photo Credits: @ P&G Opté

Photo Credits: @ P&G Opté

In 2020, tech is evolving. Now going hand in hand with wellness, innovations in the beauty category are propelled by technology. Data-driven tools, sex-tech, disruptive apps, IoT , AR, AI... From new devices presented at tech conferences to in-store intelligent tools, the tech revolution is changing the skin game. Dive in the new territories of Radical Reinvention.

Female Wellness on the rise

During the last Las Vegas CES conference, the best of innovations were introduced to tech-lovers. What was even more surprising was how tech had deeply been infused with wellness. Sex-tech only is a booming market, worth $32 billion in 2019 according to a recent study by the market research firm Technavio. During the CES, smart-vibrator company Lioness was a finalist for CES’ Last Gadget Standing award, thanks to its groundbreaking tools. Lioness’s smart vibrators use data to improve orgasms by tracking tension, temperature and pressure and syncing it to an app. Moreover, sexual wellness is increasingly associated with self-care, and even, with skin glow! Just like the effect of CBD, endorphins (Nature’s happiness) are expected to boost inner glow.

NASA-LIKE HOME THERAPIES

Data-driven approach of Beauty have also upgraded both Beauty services and products, as consumers can now self-measure their own face and body through connected objects. Innovative at-home options are rolling out at a rapid rate, like the new Genius Mask by Talika, based on NASA research, the first multifunction mask combining light therapy and electrostimulation, with a various choice of beauty care programmes (lifting, firming, toning etc.)

Source: sohu.com

Source: sohu.com

Neutrogena Skin360TM and SkinScanner (Powered by FitSkin) is going further with a tool that directly empowers the Beauty user thanks to deep learning. This recent model is an upgrade of the model presented at the CES2019 and is able to analyze more than 100,000 skin pixels and deciphers the composition of skin with over 2,000 facial attributes. The app, now available on AppStore and Google Play helps track skin's progress everyday. The more the merrier: the more skin-data the tool will get, the more the app will be fueled, and be able to formulate made-to-measure recommendations.

 
Source: Neutrogena

Source: Neutrogena

 

Deep learning can also be adapted to smart and hyper-customized makeup. P&G Opte Precision System presented at the CES2020 (upgraded version) is a portable inkjet to achieve flawless complexion. The Opte wand scans the skin with an enhanced digital camera that captures 200 frames per second and instantly analyzes each image using a proprietary algorithm to detect tonal imperfections, not visible to the human eye. Than the custom thermal inkjet printer deposites picolitre droplets of Spot Optimizing Serum on target areas until there is a perfect color match with the surrounding skin tone.

 
P&G Opte Precision System - Source: P&G Press Release

P&G Opte Precision System - Source: P&G Press Release

 


MORPHING BEAUTY SERVICES

Paradoxically, digital technologies have made in-store experience more and more important. Especially for Gen Zers who thrives on pop-ups and new spaces. Retailer are now using Augmented Reality to enhance this experience, with AR mirror and 3D tools dedicated to beauty lovers.

 
Source: The Light Salon - Facebook

Source: The Light Salon - Facebook

 

In the area of beauty services, we are witnessing the arrival of Light Salon services, home of LED technologies. At Harvey Nichols London or in several Nordstrom in the U.S., the Light Salon uses LED technologies and promises a “non-invasive, pain-free solution for the prevention and repair of ageing or damaged skin”. The company launched an at-home LED Mask Boost, made of soft silicone, to provide the necessary dose of light therapy at home (also proposed for the decolletage). At the Nordstrom beauty service area, the Light Salon space carry a special edition of the Nuori skincare line, so that tech can be complimented by a clean beauty regimen.

“Technology is infusing the skincare and wellness category. New efficient alternatives are now servicing an ever more savvy consumer. Brands need to rethink their innovation process in the light of these new tools, from product innovation, to services and in-store experience. Consumer-centric technologies will certainly change the landscape of beauty during this new decade” comments Leila Rochet, Founder of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation.

Learn more on how skin meets technology in the latest trend report Radical Reinvention - Skincare Edition, created by the Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency. If you wish to know more about this trend or the full report, feel free to contact the agency.









FEMALE EMPOWERMENT & INCLUSIVITY RISE IN SOUTH KOREA

Credits: Harper’s Bazaar Korea, April 2019

Credits: Harper’s Bazaar Korea, April 2019

2020 will mark a continued disruption for Korea. Korean women are pushing back against beauty standards and disrupting the traditional model of femininity. An unprecedented movement of feminism and body positivity in the country with the highest number of cosmetic procedures per capita worldwide…

If Korea is one of the most innovative hub of the beauty market, it’s no secret that the K-society is still highly conservative. But this paradox is less and less accurate in 2020. For the past few month, liberating movements are rising, fueled by a quest for freedom that has shaken up the representation of beauty and liberated the routines.

“ESCAPE THE CORSET”, “SKIP CARE” : A CALL FOR FREEDOM

As seen in our previous What’s Up Korea 2019, the "Escape the Corset" movement blown up on social and traditional media. Former beauty blogger, Cha Ji-won, decided to throw away her makeup and start a feminist YouTube channel (375k followers). On TV, the famous female news presenter Lim Hyeon-ju, sparked sensation by wearing glasses on air, and the cosmetic brand Missha featured a model with a glamour short hair. Korean women want to break free from the high Korean beauty standard, which used to be one of the a guarantee of success in the Korean society.

Needless to say that in the new social context, a 10-step beauty regimen is perceived as a form of labor. One that only women are expected to perform, and for which they are in no way compensated - apart from finding a "good husband". According to The Guardian, a third of young women in Korea have undergone plastic surgery. To that purpose, the "skipcare" movement aims to reduce the number of steps of K-Beauty routines. The movement is mainly led by Jullai, with hybrid products like the Bounce Essence Oil Toner which both cleanses and hydrates. "The focus was on reducing the number of steps, liberating women and their skin from timely skincare routines" says CK, Jullai’s founder.

LOV YOU BOD! BODY POSITIVITY IS KOREAN

Moreover, body-positivity coming from the US went strong for the very first time in Korea. Beauty activist, Jiwon Park (@3xl_joy), started an Instagram account dedicated to her plus-size body. With over 7.3M views, the "I am not pretty" YouTube video by Beauty blogger, Lina Bae, was one of the hottest trends. In the video, she shows herself putting on makeup then removing it, while sharing some hateful comments she received like "You are a pig" or "You should get eye surgery". She concludes: "I am not pretty but that’s okay. Don’t compare yourself to social media. You are special the way you are." "Your body is full of wonderful things" , "love your body" claims the very first Korean body positive makeup brand, LovBod, with products like the Bum Bum Mask for buttock definition.

Credits: Lovbod

Credits: Lovbod

KOREAN INCLUSIVITY : IS THIS THE END OF THE FAIR WHITE SKIN?

More and more voices are finding expression through the Korean beauty industry. In our previous article, we deciphered the boom of a more fluid male Beauty. Inclusivity-wise, a few black Korean models make an entrance, like influencer Han Hyun-min, or Joel Roberts, the first African American model to join top Korean modeling agency YG KPlus. As darker skin tones are part of neo-archetypes we observes on the media, beauty brands now dive into the trend with new products targeted for inclusive tones. 

Credits: influencer & model Han Hyun-min

Credits: influencer & model Han Hyun-min

This year, two campaigns played the inclusivity game: Espoir, for their new silk-fit foundation Colorful Nude (the campaign includes dark-toned models, as well as male and bi-racial models), and Pony Effect with the new Effect Stay Matte Lip Color.

Espoir / Courtesy of the brand

Espoir / Courtesy of the brand

And today? After this first disruption, Korean beauty market is merging to more innovative fem-powered action, and inclusive trends are blooming. Want to find out more about thoses codes? The Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency just created a new What’s Up report book dedicated to the Seoul Hub. Contact us for more information.






OUR 3 FAVORITE BRANDS FROM THE INDIE BEAUTY EXPO IN LONDON

Credits: Unsplash / Emiliano Vittoriosi

Credits: Unsplash / Emiliano Vittoriosi

When it comes to innovations, the Indie Beauty Expo is always an inspiration. Indie Brands have been shaking the beauty markets during the last decade, and 2020 will certainly see new interesting brands blooming. We spotted 3 brands, at the latest IBE London event, that embody tomorrow’s trends.

For its second edition, the London Indie Beauty Expo made quite the buzz. According to the organization, the event saw a 20% increase in exhibiting brands, confirming that the indie movement is still roaring.

From a rising Male Beauty to the celebration of Sexual Wellness, we had the pleasure to harness the next Beauty trends and meet the most exciting entrepreneurs of 2019. In this sea of innovations, three brands stood out, as they truly capture where the market is heading. Read more- and get inspired!

•Baûbo - French, sex-positive Vulva Care, what else ?

“I put The Balm right after sex, and it immediately soothed me” comments Carlotta, 28, on the brand’s website. Is this the future of skincare reviews? Taboo-free, open-minded conversations celebrating the female form in all its glory. Exit puritanism! Paris-based Baûbo leads the way, with 3 organic, Made in France and B-corp certified balms. One is a tonifying formula for post-partum bodies, another for universal care (including babies), and the third to “daily hydrate, soothe and soften the vulva, at the slightest discomfort.”

❤️: the taboo-free feminist tone, in line with a new sex-positive culture of consent coming from the US. Special mention to the “eco-aware” packaging, the first 90% recycled glass cosmetic container in the world, with Braille stickers.

 
Credits: courtesy of the brand

Credits: courtesy of the brand

 

🏠 : Baûbo (📸insta : @bauboparis)

•Skin Sapiens - When “skincare” rhymes with “activism“

As its name suggests, Skin Sapiens is for skin that knows what’s right. Crowdfunded and launched in December, the UK brand aims for total transparency, in line with the Clean Beauty wave. The 6 products (3 for babies and 3 for grown-ups) are made from ingredients exclusively purchased from audited farms, in packs created from the “highest possible recycled content”.

❤️: the very inspiring strong, activist semantics, that embody 2019’s new narratives. “Let’s do it”, “welcome to a new age in skincare”, “we’re on a mission”, “let’s cut out nonsense”, “nothing hidden / nothing wasteful / nothing oversold”. Also, the brand alerts that “the bottles and tubes may be slightly imperfect, as they are made using repurposed plastic bottles sourced in the UK.” The beauty of imperfection.

🏠 : Skin Sapiens (📸insta : @skinsapiens)

 
Credits: courtesy of the brand

Credits: courtesy of the brand

 

•Maiiro: a sustainable La Mer

Can an anti-plastic brand be hyper-glamorous? With Maiiro, it could very much be the case. The Guernsey-based brand beautifully mixes locally-sourced marine botanicals with sustainable packs. At the core of all products, the “Kelpogen5”, a signature complex made in-house of five seaweed extracts (astaxanthin, oarweed, bladderwrack, wakame and thongweed) for their powerful antioxidant properties. All organic, and vegan, of course.

❤️: an indie sustainable version of La Mer, in sophisticated 100% recyclable and 41% biodegradable packs.

🏠 : Maiiro

 
Credits: courtesy of the brand

Credits: courtesy of the brand

 

Did you like this article ? Contact us to know more about the current Indie Beauty !

Previous articles on Indie Brands in the blog: here

THE RISE OF THE INDIE FRENCH TOUCH - OUR 3 FAVORITES FROM THE MADE IN FRANCE EXHIBITION

Photo credits: Mahkeo

Photo credits: Mahkeo

Who said “Indie” only came from the US? French Beauty brands are blooming with a renewed creativity, disrupting the indie game with the French savoir-faire. Vive la Révolution!

American indie brands have deeply changed the beauty game. Viral, small, quick, disruptive, they constantly challenge us and keep us on our toes. But this indie wave goes way beyond the US frontiers, sparking a global trend that is now cascading on Europe.

In France, new small artisan brands are bubbling, disrupting the indie game through the lenses of French codes. A fascinating wave that we call Indie French Touch, where Beauty rhymes with artisan, sustainability and, of course, effortless chic.

During the 8th edition of the Made in France Exhibition, we had to pleasure to meet with the most inspiring entrepreneurs, and discovered 3 French brands that perfectly embody the trend.

•L’Accent - Chestnuts from the French Cévennes and “dermo-maquilage”

As if transforming chestnuts into foundation wasn’t enough of a miracle, new indie brand L’Accent goes one step further and invents the French word “dermo-maquilage” to express the perfect mix between skincare and makeup. Founded by two cosmetics experts, L’Accent hand picks chestnuts and grind them into a super-fine, tinted, moisturizing powder, naturally enriched with antioxidants and polyphenols. The very first Beauty chestnut spread.

❤️: "from tree to skin" : a beautiful idea that celebrates the French notion of “terroir”, with a strong innovative process (chestnut powder).

🏠 L’Accent (📸insta : @laccentcosmetics)

Photo credits: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Photo credits: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

•Les Simples de Charlotte (“Charlotte’s Simples”) - When Witchy French Apothecary meets Luxury

We love the quote “simplicity is complexity resolved” - and this beautiful brand might just perfectly embodies it. Master herbalist Charlotte chose the word “simple” for its philosophy, deeply rooted in nature and authenticity (“simples” were also the name to call medicinal herbs back in the Middle Ages). Everyday, this modern druid hand-picks herbs and transform them into “simple” potions (hydrolats, essential oils, macerated extracts slowly heated by the sun…) to create “minimalistic and organic” cosmetics.


❤️: The very notion of artisan skincare. We get back to an antique knowledge of French apothecary in a preserved Nature, and enjoy a land where time stand still.

🏠Les Simples de Charlotte (📸insta : @lessimplesdecharlotte)

Photo credits: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Photo credits: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

•Môme care - (Finally) Kids friendly skincare

Môme (in French,“offspring”) first started off in the US, the very land of Clean Beauty, and is just starting to take off in France. The brand is 100% Made in France and 100% safe, with skincare specially targeted for the little ones. After a first refillable deodorant, Môme launched its first everything skincare product, “Crème Indispensable”, that comes in 3 different sizes : “S” (5 to 10 year old) to “L” (15 and +). And - of course - it’s all blue, white and red.

❤️: the cutest version of Clean Beauty à la Française, very 2019.

🏠Momecare (📸insta : @momecareinc)

Photo credits: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Photo credits: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Did you like this article ? The Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency created a trend-report dedicated to the Indie French Touch. Contact us for more information.

HOW EUPHORIA IS REVEALING THE NEXT STEPS IN MAKEUP…AND GEN Z’S CORE INSIGHTS

Credits: courtesy of HBO

Credits: courtesy of HBO

Since its release in June, the HBO series is the biggest phenomenon in Beauty, cascading from Instagram to the Fashion Week. What key learnings do we draw from the teen fiction?

With over 30 000 mentions, the hashtag #euphoriamakeup is one of the hottest trend on the Gram in 2019. Though it’s not the first time makeup looks are inspired from a work of fiction, Euphoria is undeniably changing the game. 

A 360° BEAUTY PHENOMENON 

In only eight episodes, the HBO teen series has sparked a worldwide trend, inspiring millions of Gen Zers, and cascading on the Fashion Week in the blink of an eye. From Helmut Lang’s strokes of neon to Eckhaus Latta’s fantasy lids, we dare say designers were (unconsciously?) inspired by Euphoria.

Igor Saringer, a 22-year-old from Brazil, went one step further and created a special Euphoria Instagram filter, with 10 iconic looks from the show, such as the “white clouds”, the neon green or the yellow eye shadow with white eyeliner accent. Most of these looks are deeply rooted in current trends: unconventional and edgy lids, with bright neons or geometrical drawings, paired with glowy, “no makeup makeup” complexions. 

The name behind this artwork: Doniella Davy, who also worked on Oscar-winning Moonlight, a beautiful movie depicting the journey of a young gay black little boy in Atlanta. Needless to say the makeup artist (@donni.davy) knows a thing or two about teenagers. And it might just be why Euphoria is touching the world of Beauty on so many levels.

The best Euphoria looks recreated by makeup artists and influencers (extract from our Instabook. Credits: @jazzmynejay @celine_bernaerts @olgadann)

The best Euphoria looks recreated by makeup artists and influencers (extract from our Instabook. Credits: @jazzmynejay @celine_bernaerts @olgadann)

EMOTIONS IN MOTION: WHAT MAKEUP REALLY MEANS TO GEN Z

Is reality inspiring Euphoria, or is it the other way around?

“Most of my inspiration came from what kids are doing right nowexplains Doniella Davy. " These young people are pushing the boundaries and not living by mainstream archetypes or stereotype” Indeed, Euphoria tries to depict a generation, riding the wave of inclusivity by showing teens of all races and gender, including marginalized populations such as Rue, the main character who is also battling with depression and drug addiction. 

Furthermore, it’s Doniella Davy’s special use of makeup that highlights the most important insight of Gen Z right now.

“I believe these Gen Z kids and artists are coming up with a new language of self-expression through makeup. It’s so brave and bold to me that I really fell in love with what I was seeing on Instagram (…) There's subliminal emotional messages always in all the makeup." 

A phenomenon that we see all through Euphoria: Rue’s glitter tears to express the complexity of her temper, witty yet melancholic by “catching light in different angles using the reflective texture of glitter” so that the tears appear and disappear, or the multi-neon look of Jules to express her “optimistic and playful” side, but paired with a bare face to give it a “less-femme vibes”, expressing her innocence. Makeup here is thus used to signal emotions and paint character’s personalities and development throughout the series. 

“It’s one of the most important trend that we have seen these past few months” explains Leïla Rochet, founder of the Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency. “For young generations, makeup has become a whole new language, a way to send messages, to let creativity flow, to feel fierce and proud, to celebrate body-positivity.”

An art of painting the surface…That may actually goes skin-deep. Who said Gen Z was shallow? 

 

Did you like this article? The Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency created “Emotions in Motion”, an exclusive US trend-report centered around emotions, along with an “Insta-book”, a digest of the hottest trends on Instagram. Contact us for more information.

MEET THE MAKER: A COFFEE WITH SOOHYANG, THE HOTTEST K-ENTREPRENEUR OF 2019

Source: instagram

Source: instagram

During our trend-hunting sessions in Seoul, we had the opportunity to meet with the amazing Soohyang Kim, founder of one of the most exciting K-fragrance brand, who is spreading its scented creations all over the world…

It’s hard to miss Soohyang Kim- if not impossible. Apart from being gorgeous, glamorous and sophisticated, the Korean entrepreneur is also highly best-friend material. With the power to draw inspiration from simple pleasures (fashion, iced coffee, vintage music or Netflix), she created Soohyang in 2015, an all-natural scented brand with a signature millennial pink. Because “life is better when you smell nice”. So simple – yet, so relatable. Fun fact: “Soohyang”, in Korean, means “excellent fragrance”. And the brand is excellent indeed: with stores all over the world (Germany, USA, UK, France, Taiwan, Ukraine…), 33 original fragrances and prestigious collaborations (Lululemon, CGV, Barneys New York…), Soohyang has been getting serious heat. Her secret? Being herself. And loving her fans. Meet an inspirational maker.

Leila (our founder) and Soohyang met a few years ago and know enjoy spending time together around a coffee in Seoul, Paris and New York.

Credits: courtesy of the brand

Credits: courtesy of the brand

(Leila) : What would be your definition of luxury ?

(Soohyang) : For me, luxury means time. People think it’s all about money, but people want to buy time. And not only time for themselves, but time as a concept: they buy very nice things that never grow old, many years from now.

(L) : Could you tell us more about your brand Soohyang? How do you see it in the Korean landscape ? 

(S) : My line is more than Asian, it’s a lot of my own character. It’s my personality: simple but stylish! Pure, graphic…It represents my everything: my mother, this country, the women…I just want to prove that Asian can be connected to the world. I was a music promoter before, I worked 8 years for a record company. I love music, all music, old and new, it’s something that makes me very happy. I never grow old if I can listen to music! And the company was so small, I did a lot of things, from 9 to 3 every day! I was working so hard. And then after 8 years, I realized music and perfume were connected. The composer and perfumer both use codes and notes, they create from there. And the result represents who you are: the taste, the smell…So I created my brand in 2013, seven years ago, from this feeling. At that moment in Korea, there wasn’t much indie fragrances, my approach was quite new at the time. People liked that, and the fact that the place was really small and hidden. Now, we are getting bigger, as we are in New York, Hong Kong, London, L.A. in a really cute yellow location, or Paris in a green one.

(L) : What are the future steps for your brand?  

(S) : When I started in Korea, it was very new, so I have a responsibility for the future followers to keep doing good things, and doing things my own way. That’s why it needs to be a slow progression. All I want is to make customers happy, make them proud of me, proud of our products…I think I finally found my way with this brand!

(L): Your brand was selected to be featured in the KBeauty Event at the Carousel at Bloomingdales. You attended few VIP events in New York last week. How did it go?

Yes it is exciting to be in New York and to discuss with people in the city. This is an important step in the brand’s international development. We had the privilege to get an outstanding press and welcome here in the USA: articles in Vogue, Forbes, etc. The perspectives for us are huge and I have tons of ideas to move the brand to the next level.

Did you like this article? The Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency publishes a Korean trend-report twice a year. Contact the agency for more information.

TREND ALERT! TORTOISE SHELL MAKEUP IS IN

By makeup artist @artistrywithsarika, via Instagram

By makeup artist @artistrywithsarika, via Instagram

The nail art sensation is now cascading on makeup, taking Instagram by storm.

Have you heard of tortoise shell makeup? The blooming trend just made an entrance on Instagram (#tortoisemakeup) and is here to stay, according to Allure magazine.

It all started with nails last year , in a voluminous gel version, after Rodarte created the trend on the catwalk in September 2013.

 
Nails by Betina Goldstein, via Instagram

Nails by Betina Goldstein, via Instagram

 

SOPHISTICATION, INCLUSIVITY AND EIGHTIES VIBE

This new look is actually everything but new. Fashion yet edgy, it is directly inspired by 70’s and 80’ nostalgia, when tortoise shell eyewear was hot (remember the iconic frames by Diane Von Furstenberg). Just this summer, plastic or resin-based tortoise effects were hard to miss in jewelry, and tortoise shell earrings” have exploded in popularity on Pinterest, with searches up over 679 % reports Instyle.

 
Diane Von Furstenberg campaign, 1976

Diane Von Furstenberg campaign, 1976

 

Needless to say the burgeoning trend enters the “makeup art” category, and is embraced by both makeup artists and aficionados. It requires, if not technique, a great sense of patience. First, a layer of white, then yellow, then a warm-caramel topped with strokes of black, before lightly blending it out. This kind of subtle work highlights the wave of sophistication that has been infusing makeup since 2018, especially on eyes.

 
@anhface, via Instagram

@anhface, via Instagram

 

INSTA INSTANT

It’s not the first time a time-consuming eye makeup takes social media by storm: last year, Cloud Eye Makeup created cloud-like shapes along the creases on thousands of accounts.

So, what is all the fuss about? The key point is tortoise shell reflects how big Instagram’s influence is on the Beauty market, and how inspired is this new generation of consumers, always seeking freedom of expression through makeup…

By makeup artist Marija Mišković, via Instagram.

By makeup artist Marija Mišković, via Instagram.

Every month, the Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency publishes an Insta Book, a digest of the hottest trends on Instagram. Contact the agency for more information.

THE RISE OF THE INDIE FRENCH TOUCH - 3 GREEN SPOTS IN PARIS

Photo: Peter Bucks in Paris via Unsplash

Photo: Peter Bucks in Paris via Unsplash

Did you forget about French Touch? After a few explosive years driven by American indie brands, French Indies are on the rise…

A wave of optimism is arriving in Paris, with new indie beauty brands created by founders that propose creative and disruptive stories. More specifically, new French brands are opening the chapter of green beauty, with a contemporary French signature i.e. infused with sophistication, high refinement and sensoriality.

Here is a selection of new addresses in Paris we are happy to share. Crafted by young entrepreneurs who believe that the future is in experiential retail, the power of shareable spaces and green alternatives, these boutiques are truly innovative. These brands or retailers are also raising the bar in sustainability innovation, most of them proposing refillable products as a natural continuity of their concept. In France, more and more consumers favor more sustainable practices. In fact, 47% consumers have already bought products in bulk in 2017 (vs 38% en 1998 according to Credoc - one of the highest figures in Europe!). No wonder these new places expand the idea to beauty and personal care.

Have a look at the three "must visit" hot green spots in Paris.

Amalthea - Photo Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Amalthea - Photo Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Amalthea - The Lab-Boutique

This young, organic, sustainable and 100% made in France organic skincare brand just opened a lab-boutique in the Marais. Simple formulation and a line organized by moments.

❤️: we love the design-minded, peaceful space, sustainable & refillable packs.

🏠 Amalthea (📸insta: @amalthea.bio)

39 Rue des Gravilliers, 75003 Paris

Kerzon - Photo Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Kerzon - Photo Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Kerzon - “Madeleine de Proust”

Founded by two brothers, Kerzon is a home fragrance and personal care brand that draws inspiration in travels and childhood. The store is “a paradise for flaneurs from the world” as expressed by the brand.

❤️ : Parisian graphic design (chic and fun), refreshing fragrances and ethical values (local, fair price, transparency).

🏠 Kerzon (📸insta: @kerzon_maison)

68, rue de Turenne, 75003 Paris

The Naked Shop - photo: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

The Naked Shop - photo: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

The Naked Shop - Zero Waste / 100% Style

The Naked Shop is one of the first zero-waste Beauty store in Paris, made with style and energy. Oils and cosmetics can be refilled directly with the beautiful taps.

❤️ : special mention to the "self-service" system to freely refill products.

🏠 The Naked Shop ( 📸insta: @the.naked.shop)

75, rue Oberkampf 75011 Paris

Thank you 🙏🏻 to the owners of these new spaces for sharing their stories and allowing us to take pics.

Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation will be issuing a French Touch Trend Report. For more information or to book a Paris Beauty Tour - Contact us !

MEET THE MAKER : FOUNDER OF DAMDAM GISELLE AND PHILIPPE ON JAPANESE CLEAN BEAUTY

Capture d’écran 2019-07-19 à 18.00.10.png

Japan is harnessing the Clean Beauty trend. During our last visit in Tokyo, we had the pleasure to meet with Giselle Go and Philippe Terrien, the refined aesthetes and bold entrepreneurs behind the brand DamDam. Meet the power couple.

What is Japan’s take on Clean Beauty? While the country is known for its cutting-edge ingredients and beautiful formulas, the toxic-free skincare trend is still at its early stage, unlike western markets. The reason? “Natural” beauty is seen as ineffective while Japanese consumers raise the bar quite high when it comes to performance. However, tides are changing. Consumers’s new quest for transparency is helping brands harness the clean trend. And with its thousand-year old natural medicine paired with precious, potent resources, the land of the rising sun already has the best assets. Launched in 2017 by former magazine editor Giselle Go and entrepreneur Philippe Terrien, Dam Dam perfectly embodies the Japanese take on Clean Beauty. With a tightly edited line of five products, all free of parabens, synthetics and petrochemicals, the brand simplified the J-beauty routine with extremely potent ingredients. An aesthetic sense of minimalism paired with a thoughtful attention to craftsmanship and a reverential culture, creating a unique signature - “Dam dam”, a poetic name that also means “conscious awareness” in Filipino. During one of our trip to Japan, we had the opportunity to meet Giselle and Philippe, and dive with us in the slower-paced world of their brand.

Leïla: How did you come up with the idea for Dam Dam?

Giselle & Philippe: “Philippe has a long history in luxury food. Before Dam Dam, he had a restaurant, Hugo Desnoyer, with meat that assured perfect traceability, with cows raised sustainably and consciously. Philippe also makes his own toothpaste and deodorant. We wanted a project where we could apply a lot of these values, and skincare was an area where we wanted to start with. Japan has a lot of know-how and hundred years of experience in formulating. It's just about creating something in a cleaner way. We have been applying questionable ingredients on our skin for years now, which get absorbed in the blood. And we wanted to change that.”

 
Photo credits: courtesy of the brand

Photo credits: courtesy of the brand

 

L: What is “Clean beauty” by Dam Dam?

Philippe & Giselle: “We created a simple routine, compared to Asia where people go towards 12 steps or so. We came up with a simple line of 5 products- cleanser, lotion, mask, serum, balm - all efficient and plant based. We cut nasty ingredients: no sulfates, no fillers, no petrochemicals. For example, our cleanser is non-lathering, made from konjac, it washes off without foam because it contains no harsh bubble agents. None of the fragrances are synthetic. In Asia, the importance of layering hydration is key. So it was important to make sure that each product had a purpose. The formulas are very hydrating, but more importantly they don’t strip away skin’s natural moisture. It’s about preserving and respecting skin. Also, packaging is so important. There is not a lot of awareness towards plastic waste in Japan. So we made our packaging simple - we didn’t want to contribute to the land-field.”

 
Photo credits: courtesy of the brand

Photo credits: courtesy of the brand

 

L: What makes this brand so unique?

Philippe & Giselle: “This is a no fuss collection, perfect for city dwellers, with formulas that have been developed to reduce environmental stresses on the skin, thanks to pollution-fighting ingredients sourced in Asia and finished in Japan. Highlights include the Magic Drops, a lightweight, silky serum that is charged with avocado oil, jasmine and bitter orange leaf oil, to form a protective barrier on the skin.”

Dive into the world of Dam Dam.

Did you like this article? The Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency created a book dedicated to Clean Beauty. Contact us for more information.






Sourcing With Respect for People and Biodiversity - Consumer Insights & Company practices

Photo Credit - Unsplash - Nordwood Themes

Photo Credit - Unsplash - Nordwood Themes

On May 20, 2019 the UEBT held a conference in Paris that gathered more than 300 people from the industry, Ngo’s and brands. The “Beauty of Sourcing with Respect” is an amazing event held every year to learn more about the advances made in terms of consumer knowledge, industry practices and regulations concerning the ethical sourcing of natural ingredients (and the impact on biodiversity and people).

Since its creation in 2009 this organization has been growing in importance and has become a reference in the field of Biodiversity sourcing and Access and Benefit sharing. During the conference, small and major companies were together to share experience and discuss the new axis around the topic of sourcing.

 
 

Why is Biodiversity an important topic in the Beauty Industry?

Today, the beauty industry is increasingly using natural ingredients, from organic companies to traditional companies, the sourcing of natural ingredients means collecting ingredients from biodiversity. These ingredients are usually collected in countries where biodiversity is rich but communities living from this biodiversity are not, but the knowledge of these collectivities, transmitted from generation to generation, is huge.

We see more and more Cosmetic Companies participating in the event, and this is encouraging for the future of our industry.

What are consumers thinking? What did we learn this year

Since 2009, the UEBT has been running a Biodiversity Barometer every year, measuring the consumers’ awareness and insights on the subject. One part of the barometer is a quantitative survey among thousands of consumers around the world. In 2019, the survey was run in Japan, China, Vietnam and South Korea. The other part of the research involves street interviews, allowing to collect valuable insights.

This year’s results show that the awareness of Biodiversity is quite high, as a growing 83% of Asian consumers interviewed know what is Biodiversity (compared to the 72% in Western Countries average of France, USA, UK, Germany, and Brazil). This year survey confirmed the consumer preference for products coming from companies respecting people and biodiversity. Why? Because this has a positive impact of society (81% in Asia) and it makes the feel good (78%).

 
UEBT- Biodiversity Barometer - Results among total base (1000 people per country), Asia results in 2019, 78% refers to the Asian results. France, Germany, UK and USA - results from 2018 survey.

UEBT- Biodiversity Barometer - Results among total base (1000 people per country), Asia results in 2019, 78% refers to the Asian results. France, Germany, UK and USA - results from 2018 survey.

 

This research confirms that consumers are more and more demanding and are increasingly looking for more transparency. Trust among companies is low and they want to be better informed on the list of ingredients, the sourcing and the ethical practices that companies and brands conduct when sourcing an ingredient.

Download the results of the UEBT 2019 Barometer here.


Sourcing Natural Ingredients - Ethics and Respecting Local Communities

Sourcing ethically means respecting the planet, making sure we stop the exhaustion of plant species, but also making sure the social aspect is respected.

Biodiversity is a major source of ingredients for cosmetics. For L’Oreal, one of the sponsor of the event and speaker, more than 59% of the raw materials used for cosmetics are renewable, representing 1,600 ingredients from 340 plant species sourced in over 100 countries.

According to Nisrine Zaaraoui, Responsible Sourcing Manager at l’Oréal: “biodiversity is decreasing, this is an environmental issue but also social issue”. Traceability is key, including the origin, method of cultivation, etc. but this is only the first step of a 4 step program from the the L’Oréal Solidarity Sourcing. This project initiated in 2010 has initiated more than 40 projects, helping more than 47 000 people from communities in 13 countries.

ABS - Access and Benefit sharing - What it is and why is this key?

When sourcing an ingredient from biodiversity, there are certain rules to follow concerning the access to the ingredients and the sharing of the benefits with local communities that hold most of the knowledge and live from this natural richness.

‘Cosmetics companies are very involved as these companies are exposed, with strong story telling, and need to comply with the rules of Access and Benefit Sharing’ says Maria Julia Oliva, Deputy Director of the UEBT.

This year, one of the key subject discussed and sharing of practices were around ABS. Following the adoption of the Nagoya Protocol and related EU rules, ABS is an issue receiving increasing attention in corporate reporting, especially in the beauty sector. In 2019, 17% of beauty companies made reference to ABS (up from 2% in 2009).

If you want to learn more, this video is a great summary of what ABS is all about and why this is an important subject for the Beauty Industry.

 
 


Our agency is proud to be a long time partner of the UEBT for more than 10 years and has worked on tracing the amazing evolution of the respect of people and biodiversity in consumers and company minds.

The UEBT offers amazing material for the public and companies who wish to learn more about this important topic. Don’t hesitate to visit their website: www.uebt.org